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OPRV crush washer

Well, it seems the aluminum crush washer for the OPRV decided to fail on my '83 passing quite a bit of oil. Pressure seems good so I suspect just the washer. I cannot locate a Al. washer local only a copper. Is there any difference really ? Still cannot believe I cannot tighten that thing enough to stop the leak.

Old 12-22-2010, 07:42 PM
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If overtightened, the Al washers will gall and never seal (see below). You can get replacements at the dealer for around 10 cents.

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Old 12-22-2010, 08:02 PM
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Copper is just as good. Size is 20x24 but anything close to that should work fine.
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Old 12-22-2010, 10:46 PM
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Ok, I found an Al. washer at the local Honda dealer as the nearest Porsche dealer is too far for just a $1 part. The Honda version was just a hair thicker but of course my OEM could have been also before compression. I cleaned all the surfaces, installed , and torqued to 33lbs and yet I still get a leak. This is the only area leaking , why would I not be able to get this to seal ? This is the old three part style valve and I have to use a fair amount of force to compress the spring when I thread the bolt back on.
Old 12-23-2010, 12:46 PM
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clean and check the area thourghouly, check the oil thermstat, check all the line fittings and oil filter housing fittings where the oil lines connect, check the oil pressure sending switch, it could be coming up from the top of the oil filter housing and driping down on the oprv fooling you, or a combo of both the crush washer and the oil filter housing seal. also look even higher at the front corner of the camshaft housing for leaks there, and it could be possible that you have the wrong oprv unless it wasnt leaking before and no one has ever touched that area in the past, and absolute worst case senario, you have a crack somewhere on the oil filter housing or the block itself. some guys including myself like to use some high temp or regular black silicone as well with the crush washer for some extra security , it could be just that, those are most of the scenarios I can think of for now. good luck
Old 12-24-2010, 06:55 PM
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Ugh, no silly corn. . .blue Loctite might help tho.
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Old 12-24-2010, 11:52 PM
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try some teflon tape on the threads or ptfe paste, loctite will not stop a leak if its tight already as you stated you torqued the oprv to spec,
Old 12-25-2010, 12:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KEV951 View Post
loctite will not stop a leak
Talking about putting loctite on the sealing surfaces of the washer, not the fastener. . .and it does work. Helps the ring to crush nicely during tightening without galling or distorting, and provides a sticky residue to help seal.
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Old 12-25-2010, 01:03 PM
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Thanks guys. I might try the Loctite approach although it seems like a patch vs solution. I am the second owner and this area was never touched as far as I know and just started leaking on me after owning it 6 mths. I double checked the area and it only seeps below the OPRV bolt. I tried to remove a OPRV in a wrecking yard to try as a spare but unfortunately someone over torqued the 18mm bolt and I could not remove it.
Old 12-26-2010, 08:31 PM
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Trust me - your oil cooler seals are shot and it's time to reseal the cooler. What looks like the OPRV retaining bolt leaking is actually the 2 lower seals on the cooler housing leaking. It doesn't take much to seal the retaining bolt. I know this because I'm doing this job right now for the same reasons you're talking about. In my case the reseal kit I got was missing an O-ring so I'm stalled waiting for parts. I'll bet that even after you replace that crush washer the thing will still leak. Easy job on the 83 with no power steering. You'll need a wobble 13mm socket to get to the housing bolts under the exhaust manifold. The shop manual doesn't specify a torque value for these on reassembly but I'd think 18 ft/lbs would be plenty. I'd recommend doing a search for the update procedure too, because I'll also bet you'll be removing the original orange seals and putting in the new green ones.

However, all that said, I REALLY hope I'm dead wrong for your sake!

Cheers!
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'82 931 - roadster project - forever incomplete.
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Some wrecks and a 924 racer.
Old 12-29-2010, 09:32 AM
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Slam, I think you are correct. I looked closer and I believe the bottom housing is draining to the OPRV area and looks as it the crush washer is leaking. All else is good so shame to have to change all those seals but I guess it was only a matter of time. Some kits show an Eary or Late application. Is that only because they include the OPRV orings? I can get a kit local but it shows for 83-on. I have the 3-piece OPRV and it works so I am not changing it. But do I need a separate seal for that that is not in the kit ? What does the updated procedure contain, just swapping imprioved green seals for the orange ?

Thanks
Old 01-31-2011, 01:37 PM
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The late kits include the shims needed to adjust clearance on the element itself. The early kit should include both green O-rings, the housing seal (a metal gasket with the various orange O-rings cemented to it, and new crush washers. Also you'll find a plastic ring to space the element's mount in the housing and a rubber mount for the element-to-block flange.

Have a look at the procedure on Clark's and also check out Bruce's page (arnworx, IIRC - I'll find the website addys when I have time).

You absolutely must have the alignment tool for the early cars. Drain ALL the coolant from the block via the block drain plug under the exhaust manifold near the back of the block. Prepare to take a bath when the cooler comes off the block. Don't drain the oil yet. Install the element in the housing and the rubber mount in the block as you reassemble. Once you've got it back together, change the oil right away. Some folks have the element pressure tested and take the opportunity to flush the cooling system while they're at it. I didn't update either of my cars and they're both fine, but make sure the element sits flush in the housing, aligned with the mounting flange on the housing. I didn't use the plastid spacer in either car, as both elements sat properly. Lubricate the green O-rings with a little clean oil when you install them on the element. Go slowly. The hardest part is getting to the housing mounting bolts under the exhaust manifold, so go after those first and crack them loose before continuing - then you'll know right away what's involved.

If I've missed anything all the answers will be on Pelican somewhere.

Enjoy!
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'84 944 - new-to-me DD!
'83 944 - looks like ass, runs like horse - in primer.
'82 931 - roadster project - forever incomplete.
'80 924 - spouse's yellowjacket.
Some wrecks and a 924 racer.
Old 02-02-2011, 09:35 AM
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Here's a gooder:

944 Foot To The Floor: How to remove and replace OPRV (Oil Pressure Release Valve) on a Porsche 944
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'84 944 - new-to-me DD!
'83 944 - looks like ass, runs like horse - in primer.
'82 931 - roadster project - forever incomplete.
'80 924 - spouse's yellowjacket.
Some wrecks and a 924 racer.
Old 02-02-2011, 09:39 AM
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I thought alignment was needed more for the OPRV with orings not the early ones? I was not planning on changing oil as the oil and coolant have not mixed just the seepage issue. Is this still needed ?
Old 02-02-2011, 08:36 PM
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Actually, the 3-piece OPRV needs the special tool the most. With the 1-piece valve you can use the valve as the tool. With the 3-piece you can't.

I'd change the oil on the off-chance that pulling the cooler apart let coolant into the oil pan. I've not had that happen, but I was told by a P-car mechanic that changing the oil after this job is a good safety measure. You can recycle the coolant, though.

Having fun yet!?

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'84 944 - new-to-me DD!
'83 944 - looks like ass, runs like horse - in primer.
'82 931 - roadster project - forever incomplete.
'80 924 - spouse's yellowjacket.
Some wrecks and a 924 racer.
Old 02-03-2011, 08:22 AM
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