Engine block grounds
 

The stud that the dme and battery grounds go to on my 87 944 is completely stripped is there another spot they can ground to? maybe a intake manifold screw?

I have used my valve cover to ground the radiator fan before (constant on), but with the DME involved, I would do it the hard way and try to make another ground stud in the same area.. got any pics?

On my '87, I added a 4 guage wire ground from the top bolt on the alternator to the firewall. The normal negative battery cable bolt came out and I put in a longer metric bolt with nut to attach the original battery ground and the additional new ground wire on the engine firewall side.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1299886390.jpg

GL
John

Are 2 wires needed to ground the battery? I have one going to the back of the engine and one going to the inside of the battery box. Is the one that connects to the battery box good enough? and if so could i just attach the dme ground to the same one?

Two wires are required for grounds.

The short negative cable to the battery box firewall is the "chassis" ground.
The longer negative cable to the bell housing is the "engine" ground.

It should work to ground the DME to the battery cable box. Be certain you have the correct DME ground wire. If you add wire to the short DME negative cable, make sure it is of equal or greater multistrand guage wire. Length of wire increases resistance.

John

Ok that clears that up but I still have no clue where to put the one has to go on the engine if possible I'd like to avoid having to put in a new stud just because it doesn't seem like it can be done unless you have the engine out or some very expensive equipment.

If you are referring to the smaller ground wire it will conveniently reach to the crank sensor connector bracket.

I'm referring to the bigger DME one and the ground that comes off the battery.

Gee, I am away from my cars for a few days. I will take a look for ideas when I return and get back to you. The battery ground is a fairly large bolt and it is softer metal than the block. Is the block stripped or is the bolt just snapped off? If it is snapped off there may be room to get an easy out in there. Or if it is stripped maybe it can be tapped? I would hate to have to reroute the main ground wire. It is intricately run through numerous guides and having to re-wicker it would be a pita and really mess things up. Speaking of a late model 85 of course. The smaller ground bolt snapped off and i haven't been able to get an easy out in. But the larger wire bolt is more accessible for repair if I can recall.

Its the stud at the top of the clutch bellhousing, the threading is stripped preventing me from putting the nut on to secure it. I'm not to sure if theres enough room to get in there and tap it maybe if I remove the intake manifold I can manage to do it, I'll take a look tomorrow.

You could just make a jumper. Build it so the battery gound bolt holds down the metal jumper as well.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1299933664.jpg


GL
John

I might be being stupid but you could use a massive amount of solder to fix the ground to the stud in addition to the nut... a soldering iron would fit down in there, im just not sure if the solder would melt later on

I don't think it would melt probably just shake loose. I'll have a better idea of what can be done a little later on. I was trying to think if there was some kind of a clamp I could use but nothing came to mind. If anyone has anymore ideas I'd like to hear them. Thanks for the input so far I'll update you guys a bit later.

Is this stud removable or is it welded in somehow? http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1299959703.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1299959753.jpg

Got the stud out finally with the help of a stud remover I rented from a local Autozone problem solved.