Clutch job, Stuck on torque tube removal

[AA_Ezra]

OK so, any tips or tool that works well when removing the Torque tube to bell housing bolts? I have 3 of them off and i just can get my tools to fit correctly to remove the last bolt.

The bolt I am referring to is the furthest bolt above the Clutch slave cylinder.

The only ting i can think of is a stubby wrench with ratcheting?

[Techno Duck]

Been a while since i did the clutch on my car but if i remember right a universal flex joint on a ratchet also with a flex head was what i used for that.

[Jrboulder]

Curved wrenches are what you need. I think I managed to get it off with a ratchet and some extensions and a U-joint. It's a PITA for sure.

Jackson

[John_AZ]

2 feet of extensions, then Universal to socket.

If you go to Sears or a tool house, the best is to get a combined "universal joint metric socket" instead of a separate universal & socket. Then 2 feet of extensions.

GL
John

[AA_Ezra]

Ok so one of these ratchet flex head
Sears: Online department store featuring appliances, tools, fitness equipment and more

A set of these universal joint
Sears: Online department store featuring appliances, tools, fitness equipment and more


And possibly some of these wrenches?
A
5 Piece Metric Obstruction Wrench Set - Wrenches - Hand Tools
or
B
5 Piece Metric S-Type Wrench Set - Wrenches - Hand Tools


My only thought would be that there would be a problem torquing that last bolt correctly.. 3 out of 4 ain't bad's i guessum's


Like always the board comes to the rescue

Thanks for the input

[AA_Ezra]

Originally Posted by John_AZ

2 feet of extensions, then Universal to socket.

If you go to Sears or a tool house, the best is to get a combined "universal joint metric socket" instead of a separate universal & socket. Then 2 feet of extensions.

GL
John

Yeah, i was thinking a universa join with socket attached would be good, they are just so expensive. I'll have use all my adaptors and various extentions to get a 2 footer.

I'm assuming this is with the Cat converter heat shield and what nots?

I still have all that stuff on the car.

[John_AZ]

or Metric universal socket



John

[seafeye]

When I did mine the other night we were joking about drilling a hole in the firewall.

[nynor]

Originally Posted by John_AZ

or Metric universal socket



John

exactly.

[89-944NA]

+1 On John_AZ's universal socket. I use a flex socket, a 12 inch extension (or 2) and a flex head ratchet. Better just buy the flex head ratchet now, there are many more times you will be glad you did.

[Slam]

John's got it.

You may also be able to tilt the engine slightly, but don't stress the mounts too much. This worked well for me on my 924 clutch changes.

[CorsePerVita]

Originally Posted by John_AZ

2 feet of extensions, then Universal to socket.

If you go to Sears or a tool house, the best is to get a combined "universal joint metric socket" instead of a separate universal & socket. Then 2 feet of extensions.

GL
John

+1 to this. U Joint adapter and a few extensions are a life saver on that bolt, it is a real pain in the butt. Mine was so stubborn that even once I got on it, I had to leverage the head of my ratchet against the car and use my foot on the ratchet arm to get enough force to break it loose, it was on there good!

If you need a how-to guide on doing the clutch, let me know, I have a tutorial I can link you to. It even has all the nuisance parts (like this) that you may encounter, and how to overcome them.

[hopps]

Originally Posted by John_AZ

2 feet of extensions, then Universal to socket.

If you go to Sears or a tool house, the best is to get a combined "universal joint metric socket" instead of a separate universal & socket. Then 2 feet of extensions.

GL
John

PITA...but yes, this method works. Extensions + universal joint + a few new curse words = torque tube removed

[HondaDustR]

It also helps to remove the hard to reach bolt first, or at least not last, so the torque tube flange wont put extra force on the bolt as it tries to cock away from the bellhousing.

[Rasta Monsta]

^^ heh heh heh

[AA_Ezra]

Originally Posted by CorsePerVita

+1 to this. U Joint adapter and a few extensions are a life saver on that bolt, it is a real pain in the butt. Mine was so stubborn that even once I got on it, I had to leverage the head of my ratchet against the car and use my foot on the ratchet arm to get enough force to break it loose, it was on there good!

If you need a how-to guide on doing the clutch, let me know, I have a tutorial I can link you to. It even has all the nuisance parts (like this) that you may encounter, and how to overcome them.

gimmy gimmy linky linky.

I'm stuckon step 24 on clarks garage.
" Remove the clutch release lever retaining bolt"
and
"Thread the long 8 mm thread bolt into the end of the release lever pivot shaft. Remove the release lever pivot shaft by holding the 8 mm bolt with a pair of pliers and tapping the pliers with a hammer or prying with a screwdriver. "

I have no idea what he's talking about.

[AA_Ezra]

Originally Posted by HondaDustR

It also helps to remove the hard to reach bolt first, or at least not last, so the torque tube flange wont put extra force on the bolt as it tries to cock away from the bellhousing.

Yeah, I thought of that after i was on the last bolt. I've just really been gun-hoe about it lol


Off topic but

The torque tube is out of the way now but, when i spin the shaft it makes noise as if the bearing inside how no grease? kinda like a dry bearing metal on metalnoise vs no noise of one that's packed with grease.

Normal or no?

[AA_Ezra]

Ok bummed a picture from another thread. This is were i am at in the process.

I see a bolt with a nut on it above were the starter once was.
I also see Another place were a bolt would thread into below the bolt and nut.

I'm thinking that has something to do with the clutch fork and i don't want to remove the bell housing bolts and something bend,break or get destroyed because i didn't remove something or removed something too early

Thanks

[Rasta Monsta]

That rusty ass bolt and nut are the retainer for the fork shaft. You'll need to remove it before pulling the shaft.

Follow that casting forward, and that round fella with the threaded hole is the shaft. It's an 8mm. Use a spare bolt and a big washer, and thread it in a ways. I attach a vice grip to the bolt and tap it with a BFH. This will slowly draw the shaft out, then you can disengage the shift fork and pull the bell housing.

Bad news about your torque tube. . .PITA to rebuild, but if you are hearing a grindie noise, that is where you are headed.

[John_AZ]

Originally Posted by AA_Ezra

Off topic but

The torque tube is out of the way now but, when i spin the shaft it makes noise as if the bearing inside how no grease? kinda like a dry bearing metal on metalnoise vs no noise of one that's packed with grease.

Normal or no?

Not so good. Like RastaM said.

There are 4 bearings inside. With your current difficulty, I suggest getting a rebuilt from www.944Ecology.com

Here is a little info from Clarks:
http://www.clarks-garage.com/pdf-manual/trans-05.pdf

Again, this may not be a DIY project for you. Others have tried and had success.

GL
John