Front suspention rebuild
 

Ok so i am ready to put on the busing on my early steel controll arms. But before i begine does anybody have any examples of how the the bushings go on.

THe controll arm bushing to cross member has one side that is fat and the other that is more slender. Wich side goes on the part of the controll arm that has like a flanged peice.

And the rear bushing i assum that the flat part of it faces up to be flush with chasis and flush with the controll arm if it was facing down?

The open side of the early bushing mount goes against the cross member with the rubber bushing going flat against the cross member, and held in place by the "U" shaped bushing mount...

I wimped out and took my control arms to a machine shop and they pressed in the new bushings. Cost - about $40.

Ok i re- read my post what i ment was

The bushing that goes in between the the cross member has one side that is larger than the other and the control arm has one side that has a flange and one that does not.

Thanks for explaining the rear one Cocacolakidd.


And do i wait to tighten all the bushings once i lower the car or do i only tighten the front bushing on the controll arm once i lower the car.

Bumpage

Had tried to reply to this a couple of days ago but my computer crashed. You might have worked it out already, but here's what I found when doing mine a month or so ago:

The rear ones go on with the flat part facing upwards. They can be tapped on with a hammer. On mine they didn't look like they were all the way on (gap between bushing and lip on the control arm) but there's a hole in them so you can feel that they are fully on.

Front ones I couldn't do myself - they squirm around so you can't hit them straight. The fat end sits in the flared end of the tube on the control arm. On mine there were 3 little tabs that almost looked like bits that weren't trimmed properly in moulding on the other end. These pop through the non flared end and stop the bushing from popping out again.

I ended up taking the arms to the local backstreet shop and using their press for a small donation.

I'd recommend torquing the caster blocks before tightening down the front bolt - I forgot to do that on one side and it's off now. I'll have to loosen and adjust when I get a chance to get toe-in a bit closer to where it should be.

Hope this helps.

Mike

Thanks. i'm acutaly still waiting on the parts.

Thank you, it's allways good to have extra info for added assurence of doing a job correctly or confirming something was done wrong.. I've had the bushing in the freezer since a few days ago in preperation of this job.

It was recomended here or another forum while serching how to install rubber bushings that you could you " RU Glide" a product from NAPA that is a liquid used to mount tires and does not slip once installed. cost about 13 bucks for a gallon. Might try that if the silicone spray, rubbing alchohal do not work

thanks
J

Just to be sure because i could not install it myself with a vice.

The bushing goes on this way right?
And you push the small side with the lip on first?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1304458467.jpg

I'd say insert the side with the nipples. Your machinist will probably get it right.

Long story short.
Went to a European shop that specializes in mg and jaguar, he used a socket and a vice like I did with some soapy water and chargers me 10 bucks took him maybe. 5min max

ok I thought it would still work. and it did i just don't knwo if i should leave it that way.

Passenger side rear control arm bushing was perfect maybe slightly off if you looked hard enough.

Drivers side was off a little, after installing and double checking it seems to be off way more then i thought. So i put it in the freezer in attemped to make it easier to take off.

Any input or ideas. i don't want 35$ to go to waste


Rasta if you see this. you upgraded to MK1 prothane bushings in the front. but what are those in the rear i cant find those in prothane mk1 anywhere

Forgot about the pictures so here they are. On a side it is 35$ for the bushing for the steel controll arms but 18$ for a set of welteisters but they have no metal sleeve on the inside or a metal plate on the outside is that going to work. wish i saw that sooner i droped 70$ on the rears and didn't bother looking at welts because i was sure they were more

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1306530749.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1306530913.jpg

Ok so, i was ablel to remove the rear bushing with some wd-40 and a flat chisel after leaving the arm in the freezer for about 20 hour's. but now when i try to install i am able to do it by hand with little force and it just spins around freely.

The paint is all but gone im thinking the paint i applied to the arm helped seat it as ti made more friction and now that it's gone is free to roam about the cabin?

Anyone remove and then have to re-install these with the same results or not.

IN the mean time the controll arm assembly is sitting in the sun im hoping that will expand the control arm and make the bushing stay and hopefully be ok as the weather in California never gets as cold as a freezer :P

Prothane kit has steel sleeves:

Prothane - Front Control Arm bushing kit - Mk1 Rabbit / GTI / Jetta / Scirocco / Cabriolet

is this were you get you're stuff rasta?

Funny you mention the sleeves i was just about to ask you if the Prothane kit has a sleeve in the rear bushing, the front ones apear to have it but i could not tell from the pictures if the rear did as well. I found pictures here but i wasent sure if the rear bushing had prothane molded around the sleeve.

thanks

924Board.org :: View topic - How to Install Control Arm Bushings and Grease Fittings

There is no sleeve on the rear, but none is really needed, IMO.

Ok got them in. I assume the grease that came with it is for lubing only the inside parts of the bushing correct? Like the inside of the rear bushing ( big one) and the Inside of the front bushing and the outer part of sleve that touches the bushing and leave the inside were the bolt goes threw dry?