Friend having issues with his 83' 944 (wiring related)

[CorsePerVita]

I have yet to go take a look at the issue in person yet. I plan on doing so tomorrow but figured I'd pick the brains of my fellow pelican 944 addicts.

He's had intermittent start issues, sometimes no power, sometimes power.

He dug into the column and found his ignition switch was cracked and completely hosed.

This last time he started the car he blew a bunch of fuses and then replaced them (mind you he didn't write down which ones).

Now when he turns the key after replacing the switch he gets no power to anything. No gauges and no interior lights. It did the same thing BEFORE he replaced the switch.

So right now the only thing we know for sure works is the new switch.

It sounds to me like he's got a burned up ground somewhere or a lead to the switch is having issues. He mentioned a "wire by the header is burned up" but the picture he sent to my phone was hard as hell to see.

So with these symptoms:

- No gauge lights with key in "ON"
- No voltage to positive terminal to coil with key in "ON" - at least not that he can confirm
- No interior lights when doors are opened, they worked briefly a monthly ago and went off

[vdubr928]

Check your hot leads. Sounds like his battery terminals are lose or coroded. Also chack the back of the starter and the alternator. These could have come lose.

Go look. We need more info.

[Outback Porsche]

Remove/bypass the factory alarm (re clarks garage) and have another go at starting.

Cheers,

[CorsePerVita]

Hey guys, this is a SUPER late reply but I like to reply in case other people come across the issue.

It ended up being the main ground from his battery terminal to the firewall. It was so corroded that it wasn't making a solid connection. We replaced it with a new one and the car runs good as new. It caught me off guard because the color of the strap looked gray, so I thought it was steel or something. On a whim I took some sandpaper to it and started noticing "Hey this is copper... like my 914 strap..." so I cleaned it up and had him try it again, blammo, started right up. Didn't figure it was worth keeping which is why he replaced it.

[many944s]

Nice trouble shooting!

There are so many things that can cause a no-start/ non-run issue, Kudos on checking the most simple factor first!!!

-Nick

[CorsePerVita]

Yeah on that note, a guy on another forum is having some starting issues with his... he just did the timing belt, and afterwards it wouldn't start at all. He had the speed/ref sensor unplugged. Well, after plugging it in, he gets tach bounce but the car only starts for 2-3 seconds, spits/backfires a few times and then shuts off.

He said he felt like he had a lot of resistance turning it over by hand. I recommended removing the spark plugs and trying again, he said after that, it turned over just fine with no resistance, so it was safe to assume no physical resistance. I recommended double checking his marks to make sure nothing got moved. Now, I am not sure if he ended up checking the timing marks afterall, but anyway, he started the car and now it starts for a few seconds, spits, and dies. Any ideas? He's going to check his timing marks tomorrow and do a compression test to make sure he didn't bend any valves. But shoot... with no spark plugs in there and a small ratchet, you'd have to really give it a wack to physically bend those puppies.

[many944s]

If it starts then dies....
Make sure the AFM sensor is plugged in as well as the TPS on the bottom of the throttle body. If the Air flow meter is unplugged the engine will usually start then die out within a couple seconds. its something VERY simple to miss!

-Nick

[CorsePerVita]

He did have a bunch of sensors unplugged, so it's possible the AFM could still be unplugged. I'll suggest this to him and report back with the findings. Thanks Nick

[klm2500hd]

First time I did my belts/wp I didn't quite get the AFM plug fully seated, same symptoms as your friend. Wiggled the conector and everything was fine after.

[CorsePerVita]

Turned out his timing was actually off. Almost had sort of a bet going, I figured it was a sensor, another guy thought the cam was off by 180 degrees. But ended up being that it was just barely off by about 1 tooth. No valve interference and his testing turned out fine, car fires up and runs like a champ again. Got lucky on the valve interference I'd say lol..