Rear Glss Separation
 

Hi, i was thinking about replacing the rear hatch struts on my 944 but I've heard that stronger struts are what makes the rear glass separate from the frame, any advice-Thanks

jb weld

Can this be done after separation? is there a write up? Mine came "pre-separated"

my glass is not yet separated - i was wondering though if i replace my weak struts with new ones will the added stress actually cause my glass to separate

I am also vested here. Someone set my hath on my 44 down on something and bent the crux out of it. I can buy a frame for 30$ but the glass in that frame is bad. Can I swap my good glass into a good frame?

Lets see,
Advice, yes.
JB Weld, no
Writeups, many
New struts, will lead to separation
Swap a good frame on old glass, sure.

The best thing to do is never let the glass separate. Live with the hatch not lifting with the hatch shocks. To stop the hatch from squeaking, get used hatch shocks from a parts car.

The following are the repairs. Note, if you have sunscreen on your hatch it will be damaged with any fix and look bad.

The RastaMonsta fix:
924Board.org :: View topic - Hatch Reseal

The 9X repair:
http://www.9xauto.com/hatch/hatchkit.pdf

Pelican Parts repair link:
Pelican Technical Article: 944 Rear Hatch Glass Repair

Where to get 3M products--at a windsheild glass shop or ...

Products for Automobile Collision Repair including Sandpaper, Glue, Body Filler, Tape and more

GL
John

thanks a bunch John! I will look through those links to tidy this up on my car.

Ha. . . . how cool is it that this thread popped up just when I found out last week that my 944 (that I've let sit and bake for the past two years) has hatch separation issues.

Thanks John for all the links, I'll be a' resealing this, installing a new hatch weatherseal . . .and KEEPING my worn out struts and just adding a prop rod. . . as the 944 is about to get a new life.

Hmmmm. . . . pretty interesting reading. . .especially the Rasta files, lmao!

I'm seeing though that several people have completed this task without 'splodin their glass all over the living room carpet. . . . . only to have it separate again within a few months, and sometimes only a few weeks later.

The only report I've seen back on this that has lasted the longest was from Todd Staples in this thread here:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-924-944-968-technical-forum/364195-rear-hatch-repair.html

He used the 3M products . . and it appears his seal broke at the primer to glass point.

Another user in that same thread, Carroll Laird, indicated that he used the 3M products but had asked several questions to 3M directly before he did the job. Too bad he didn't post that info for all to see.

I'm going to try to hit 3M up, advise them of the reported separation issue of the primer/glass that Todd spoke of and see if they have suggestions or ideas of why this occured. Perhaps even hit up a few glass installation shops for ideas and/or have them reseal it. I'll post any useful info that I get back here.

i also fixed mine, only to have it separate again in a few months, i've just left it so far.
maybe i'll try just filling the gap with epoxy & call it a day

I fixed my hatch using 3m windshield urethane it split a few months after. It sucks. Make sure the frame is not bent.

Haven't heard back from 3M yet.

Looney and Billy, Did you guys hook up new (or even used) hood shocks after the fix? Was it the primer letting loose from the glass that caused the re-separation as in Todd Staples case??

I'm thinking of the old struts that used to be on some 60's liftbacks etc. It was more like a two pieces of 1/16 - 3/32 thick metal, one folded in such a way that the other would slid into it. Think of drawer sliders here. When extended to it's full travel, there was a mechanical latch that engaged and it would hold the liftback up. To disengage it, you'd lift the hatch up just a bit, push a little cam (pin, whatever) on the locking mechanism of the strut and it would allow it to close back.

ANYway. Let's all of us who are fighting this issue keep on experimenting. Obviously the methodology is down on removing the glass from the frame and putting it back together. So what we're faced with is the proper surface prep and/or adhesives to make the job last. Billy got a response on another thread about etching the glass around the seal area first, and I'd like to know more about that. I'd also like to know more about the 5200 (3M 06504) marine adhesive that another has spoke of.

i hooked up a good used pair of struts, & i'm sure that was the reason it failed again.

It seems that a lot of frames are bent. So that causes the glass to seperate again. I was thinking of putting enough urethane in the gap to glue the trim piece in place. I did this on my 924 and the repair held up no problem.

This what I would like to try. Seperate the glass and hatch frame. Then etch the glass prime it and use that 3m 5200 urethane lay the glass back on to the hatch(which would be on the car so it has the right shape). Then let that sit for at least 48 hours.

Wouldn't the glass, if taken off and say supported from the underside on the main flat surface, retain it's original shape? If so, I wonder if it would be possible to test fit the frame that way, making adjustments as necessary, until the frame was brought back into it's original shape too?

I'm going to have to do this fix. Mine is so bad after letting it bake in the Co. sun at 8500' for two years that the entire glass edge is visibly protruting from the frame all along the top edge. It's not going to hurt for me to go ahead and tear it down and start looking at the frame situation. I'll keep things pictured and posted.

Still waiting to hear from 3M, I'll be visiting my auto glass shop on Monday with questions.

I've got a spare hatch that's got this issue as well... I'm looking forward to seeing what the 3M says, and what you finally use for a solution so that I can possibly make it useful again :)