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Registered User
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Hard clutch pedal
Having no previous experience with 968s I am maybe inventing things here, but I do have a suspicion my clutch pedal is significantly harder than it should be. The operation of the clutch is otherwise entirely all right, the engagement point feels right, the clutch disengages properly and does not slip. The pedal is noticeable harder on the second half of its travel, which with a diaphragm type spring seems strange.
Any ideas or experiences, or should I just forget it? I was thinking in terms of worn or hard master or slave cylinder seals, internally collapsed hoses and such. |
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Proprietoristicly Refined
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: ~Carefree Highway~
Posts: 5,833
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egil,
Just a couple of thoughts on the '94 968 clutch pedal operation. Here is a copy of the basics. Check these points out. Note the new "boost spring" installed in the '93 968 series cars. ![]() If all checks out, I would start with a new clutch master cylinder replacement. GL John
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1988 924S, 85,750K ..+ 1987 924S, 154K DD (+15K est. bad odo) |
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Registered
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Booster spring adjustment would be the first and easiest check.
Had to replace broken clutch pedal on my 6-speed and made a couple of adjustments to get the right feel. Next, the lube in the pivot bearings could be dried up and the roller bearings are galling the pin. May be time to get into the clutch if the booster spring adjustment does not fix it.
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87 951 all stock exc. cup II's /94 968 6-spd, lowered,17in. RUF Speedlines, M030 anti- sways/ 94 968 Tip, Cup II's, otherwise stock |
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Registered User
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Thanks for all excellent advice! Available time has been limited, though. I dived under the dashboard with a set of standard vernier calipers today, but it was really diffucult to get enough space to do an accurate reading - the calipers really do not fit. I have a feeling that at least the spring length is wrong (I have the grey type). I believe I will probably make some pieces of cardboard with the right measurements, to be able to do this in a practical manner. It also seems I should probably remove the driver's seat to get proper access.
Last edited by egil; 06-04-2011 at 07:47 AM.. |
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Registered User
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Answering myself: To do this properly, I probably need an outside caliper (for the spring) and an inside caliper. I never miss an excuse to buy new tools.
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Registered
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I took a chopstick, cut it to the length called for in the tech manual, measured with that, adjusted to the correct length.
It still felt a bit too stiff for my comfort level so I adjusted as needed. The measurement is a guideline not gospel. The spring ensures the pedal returns and makes sure the clutch is fully engauged. Just to make sure you know, there is a plate you can remove at the FW/clutch assy. After the booster spring, as I said b4, you may want to do a clutch inspection. Try to have parts catalog and repair manual available. These are very valuable for reference, you can look at the parts catalog to see how parts go together.
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87 951 all stock exc. cup II's /94 968 6-spd, lowered,17in. RUF Speedlines, M030 anti- sways/ 94 968 Tip, Cup II's, otherwise stock Last edited by 968 GUY; 06-04-2011 at 08:49 AM.. |
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