pschaars parts identification challenge! level 99
 

I recently took off my oil pan to ID a low oil pressure problem. Definitely cracked the suction tube (oil pickup tube) and I am in the process of replacing it. But when I took of the oil pan I found some bits and pieces on the bottom:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-X...282%252529.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-g...%252520pan.jpg

The larger white ones are a hard plastic, the smaller grey one are a very brittle metal.

Any thoughts? could they also be related to my low oil pressure problem? Here is everything I tested and checked for the oil pressure to present: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-924-944-968-technical-forum/613027-low-oil-pressure-tried-everything-i-could-find-info.html

Is this on the S2? If so, it looks like cam chain guides........probably blocking some oil passages........not good!

it is an s2; I will have to figure out how to inspect the cam chain guides now. Hopefully I have all the pieces in the bottom!!

thanks

blocked passages will raise pressure, usually?

+1 ^ Exactly as I was thinking also - please refer to "Serious Motor Problems" in your "Murphy's Manual".

If you can match up those pieces with what's left on the head, and compare them to the new install parts there may not be other parts wedged in the block passages. If there is still allot of stuff missing it may be time for another block - sorry the devil made me say it.

Look like the pads(top & bottom) to me plus some camshaft sprockets pieces.Take the valves cover ASP hope for you you got limited damage, you know as well as I do that they don't give those S2 head away.GLhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1307753545.jpg

I have a 5-7 business day wait for the suction tube. so I will take the valve cover off in the mean time. Thanks for the ID everyone!


fwayfarer: I have no idea, I guess it would depend on the location of the blocked passage. But I know for sure my suction tube was broken. I took it out and tested it. I will check out my chain guide and when I get everything back together I guess I will see if I have the opposite oil pressure problem.

Ok, everyone was correct in saying chain guides. Here is a picture:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/--...610_185856.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-o...610_185903.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-b...610_185909.jpg

you can see the tiny pieces of the chain guide in the second and third picture. in the third picture the piece on the right side of the chain is actually still stuck between the chain and the cambox.

Time to start researching what this all means... :(

Well, I identified the little metal fragments from the oil pan. They are part of the metal plate on the tensioner that the plastic chain guide connects. :( I guess that is good news, ernie9944, since the sprockets actually look to be alright. Now I just have to figure out how to take this thing out. The clarks-garage description is a bit confusing to me at the moment. Time to learn some new part names so I can understand all the steps.

I dont envy you....

But as with anything new.
Take your time, take lots of pictures, and label everything.
It seems daunting, but if you break everything down into steps, its really not very hard.

Google __ DIY Chain Tensioner Pad Replacement 944S2-Rennlist Discusion Forums___OK this DIY is a steps by steps with pics included,only one catch if your not a register Rennlist(paid up member) you migth not be able to see the pics.If so let me know ,I'll arrange to transfer them pics to you on this thread.:)

OMG! ernie9944, the whole site came up, pics and everything. Thanks for the tip!! I really needed that right now. my search for "944 chain tensioner replacement" was not making the grade.

Truckin4life: I think the best thing I have learned so far since working on the car the past two weeks was to buy two boxes of cheap zip lock bags. I label every nut, bolt, screw I take off and only put more than one thing in a bag if they are from the same piece and the same size. I also put masking tape on the larger pieces, like random heat shields, and label where they go back. Has saved me tons of time from previous projects. :)

the low oil pressure was the reason I stopped driving, but I had an on-going list of projects I wanted to tackle. i.e. control arm ball joint, rear half axle, timing belt, brake pads and rotors, backup light switch... and more. This board, clarks-garage, and a little from my workshop manuals have taught me more about this car than I would have ever imagined.

tensioner removal is a snap.


look near the base of the tensioner body and you'll see there's a hole drilled front to back (as in engine front to back) that's the right size for a small drill bit or big paper clip. Find a piece of metal (what the hell's a MAN doing with a bobby pin???) and push down on the tensioner/chain. Stick your random metal through the body, which keeps the tensioner spring compressed. remove the oil feed pipe bolt, then remove the two bolts holding the tensioner to the head. slide it out sideways.

Two tips:

don't drop the oil feed pipe crush washers.

check the feed pipe for cracks--they're known to act up.



if you've chewed up the pad mount you'll need a new tensioner. hunt around and you'll find one for $400 or less.

Next buy a lottery ticket. Most folks loose the cams when this happens, very good catch. BTW, whne i pulled the head off my 87 S I saw a peice of the same plastic down in the oil drain hole near piston number 3. It had to have been there for at least 40K miles. It was too big to fall thru obviously, wondering what will be in the pan now.

Pettybird: Thanks! that is helpful. Does chewed up mean any damage at all or the new plastic guide doesn't fit snuggly? don't want to be cheap, but the credit card is just about maxed.

How smart/dumb does this sound:
I know I am missing plastic bits from the old guide. I think they are not all in the cambox or in the oil pan. I have the oil return tube exposed. If I put the compressor nozzle on there (which has an air filter and water trap for paint spraying) and blow at 150psi, I think I can retrieve some of those little pieces. I would have to block off the suction tube, which is out right now anyway. This would leave the cambox oil passages as the only escape. Will this damage anything, or create a situation where things will be damaged when I start her up again?? Is this at least better than leaving the pieces down there and hoping for the best?

desertt5: Already got the lottery ticket and after I clean the grease off my hands I am asking out the hottest girl in school. :)

I have owned a S2 and a 968. IMHO go to the dealer and buy a new tensioner unit and timing chain. Once the chain cuts into the tensioner metal, you do not want to take a chance.

Take a good look at the tensioner. You will note that the metal ramp under the plastic rub block has pointed teeth that are perfect for grabbing the timing chain. You are very lucky you are not looking for a new head.

[QUOTE=pschaars951;6073558]Pettybird: Thanks! that is helpful. Does chewed up mean any damage at all or the new plastic guide doesn't fit snuggly? don't want to be cheap, but the credit card is just about maxed

No need to go to the dealer for your parts,those guys will supply you with everything you need to do the job at a very decent price,plus thge know what they're talking about when iot come to S2 btw ( very reliable supplier). Paragon Products - Porsche Parts & Accessories - Koni, Pagid, K&N, Bilstein, Racers Edge, Weltmeister, Porsche suspension, porsche brakes, 911 parts, 944 parts, 968 parts, 914 parts, 930 parts, boxster parts, cayman parts, 968, cayenne

[QUOTE=pschaars951;6073558]Pettybird: Thanks! that is helpful. Does chewed up mean any damage at all or the new plastic guide doesn't fit snuggly? don't want to be cheap, but the credit card is just about maxed.

How smart/dumb does this sound:
I know I am missing plastic bits from the old guide. I think they are not all in the cambox or in the oil pan. I have the oil return tube exposed. If I put the compressor nozzle on there (which has an air filter and water trap for paint spraying) and blow at 150psi, I think I can retrieve some of those little pieces. I would have to block off the suction tube, which is out right now anyway. This would leave the cambox oil passages as the only escape. Will this damage anything, or create a situation where things will be damaged when I start her up again?? Is this at least better than leaving the pieces down there and hoping for the best?[



Can't really hurt anything. Get those pieces out.

Capt Squid: thanks, I am tending to agree with you.

ernie9944: Thanks for the recommendation, I just order a bunch of stuff. They were the same price or cheaper on most things, and the few things they weren't the additional shipping costs of ordering elsewhere made it worth it just to go with paragon.

vdubr928: Thats what I was thinking, I dont know how else to do it without pulling the whole engine apart. But I don't know how to verify if it worked either...