fuel tank removal

[petrolhead611]

Looks like I have no choice but to try and remove this as 6 attempts using 3 well known brands of repair putty have all failed the moment a gallon of gas was poured into the tank-wondering if the ethanol in modern fuel just instantly attacks the putty. If anyone knows of a brand that really works with modern petrol, please advise .
Anyway I have concerns as follows:
Is the tiny space between rear of gearbox and spare wheel bay sufficient for moving transmission back to disengage it from the torque tube, or does the engine have to be moved forward off of its mountings? How does one remove the exhaust heat shield nuts that have seen 25 English winters;cannot use heat as have a leaking fuel tank. Do I hacksaw it off leaving enough metal on each mountinmg stud to weld it back together? How to separate the exhaust back box form the rest as it has also seen 25 winters but is still in good order-I don't want to buy some after-market silencer that makes a stupid noise..Do people just saw through the pipe then sleeve it on re-assembly?.

[Guest765]

Originally Posted by petrolhead611

Looks like I have no choice but to try and remove this as 6 attempts using 3 well known brands of repair putty have all failed the moment a gallon of gas was poured into the tank-wondering if the ethanol in modern fuel just instantly attacks the putty. If anyone knows of a brand that really works with modern petrol, please advise .
Anyway I have concerns as follows:
Is the tiny space between rear of gearbox and spare wheel bay sufficient for moving transmission back to disengage it from the torque tube, or does the engine have to be moved forward off of its mountings? How does one remove the exhaust heat shield nuts that have seen 25 English winters;cannot use heat as have a leaking fuel tank. Do I hacksaw it off leaving enough metal on each mountinmg stud to weld it back together? How to separate the exhaust back box form the rest as it has also seen 25 winters but is still in good order-I don't want to buy some after-market silencer that makes a stupid noise..Do people just saw through the pipe then sleeve it on re-assembly?.

no? you remove and drop the pipe as a whole assembly. unbolts from the exhaust manifold upfront, drop the hangers in the middle, and disconnect the rubber mounts that hold the muffler.

[John_AZ]

+1 on the exhaust. 2 new exhaust flange gaskets should be ordered.

Yes there is room to drop the transaxle with out hitting the spare wheel well.

The use of a floor jack and a transmission accessory addition on the floor jack will take the weight of the transaxle off your shoulders !! (laugh, laugh)

You have to remove/unbolt the rear linkage. The long shift shaft is bolted to the linkage with a wired security bolt. Put the bolt in a bag and label it. Do not over torque the bolt on assembly.

Repack the 4 CV joints.

There is a foot long black tube that is inside the transaxle. This tube may cause you problems when you reinstall the transaxle. Be patient. Put it back in.

Here is a link with a few pictures. You will only use the beginning portion:

My clutch job, in pictures:

Take pictures of the rear hatch area fuel intake after you take off the metal & carpet covers.
The picture will help you put the hoses back in the correct place.

Get Permatex black rubber sealer for the metal cover.

Replace all hoses on top of the tank--gas and vacuum.

If the tank is welded, make sure the hoses still fit in the grooves and that the welder did not put a brace in the area that prohibits the hoses from laying flat.

The job is real easy the 3rd or 4th time you do it.

GL
John

[Rasta Monsta]

First, you should always listen to John. Second, if that stupid black tube doesn't go in immediately and easily, throw it over the fence into the neighbor's yard!

[mikepellegrini]

Originally Posted by Rasta Monsta

First, you should always listen to John. Second, if that stupid black tube doesn't go in immediately and easily, throw it over the fence into the neighbor's yard!

+1 on tossing the black tube protecting the shift linkage. I really truly can't see a reason for it being there, except to make it tough to get the transaxle back in.

[matthewb]

It keeps dirt from getting into the bellhousing and potentially destroying the input shaft seal faster. Other than that I haven't come up with any other ideas.

[Rasta Monsta]

Speeds assembly at the factory?

[John_AZ]

Originally Posted by Rasta Monsta

First, you should always listen to John. Second, if that stupid black tube doesn't go in immediately and easily, throw it over the fence into the neighbor's yard!

Originally Posted by mikepellegrini

+1 on tossing the black tube protecting the shift linkage. I really truly can't see a reason for it being there, except to make it tough to get the transaxle back in.

Originally Posted by matthewb

It keeps dirt from getting into the bellhousing and potentially destroying the input shaft seal faster. Other than that I haven't come up with any other ideas.

Originally Posted by Rasta Monsta

Speeds assembly at the factory?

I have a solution.

Remove one of the tabs on the tube, opposite the one I have circled...
slide it towards the driver,



lift the transaxle in position,

slide the tube back,

Put a dab of silicone sealer or black rubber around the tube on the outer transaxle bell housing side. Done.

The other purpose of the tube is that when the car dies and sits in a field. the rats and mice cannot make a home in the bell housing.

They head for the air filter box! (Mike )

John.

[mikepellegrini]

Originally Posted by John_AZ

They head for the air filter box! (Mike )

John.

Yes they do!

[petrolhead611]

Thanks for the advice so far;am now investigating ramps or lifts to get the car high enough to comfortably work under in a low garage. I have enough headroom to lift the car a miximum of 32".

[massive]

Here's the complete procedure to remove the fuel tank 944 Foot To The Floor: How to remove and replace a Porsche 944 fuel tank (Square Dash Model)

[massive]

And here's the transmission removal procedure too 944 Foot To The Floor: How to remove a Porsche 944 transmission (Square Dash Model)

[MrTibbs]

I'm dismantling a 924S parts car at the moment. Hopefully lifting the body off the running gear in the next 2 or 3 weeks. The tank seems OK - certainly doesn't leak or smell with about 15 litres in it.

Not sure how bad yours is but if it's easier or if yours is cream crackered I'm only in Sheffield so the one from my car parts could be a possibility. Let me know if you're interested anyway.

Re getting the tank out - I'm about to lift the body off the running gear on my parts car. not sure whether it's much easier than removing the transmission, but I think it'll mean not having to try to mess about with a jack lowering the trans (you leave it connected to the axles too. Might be an easier way to get to the tank. If I get there before you get your tank out I'll let you know how it goes.

Mike

[MrTibbs]

Did you fix your tank in the end? mine has a slight leak if I put more than 15litres in when the light's just come on. I can live with it, but it would be easier if I didn't have to fill up every 100 or so miles (and might be more frequent in Germany in a couple of weeks at autobahn speeds).

Was going to try chemical metal - was that one you tried?

Mike

[petrolhead611]

No, I bought a special aircraft fuel tank sealant and reinforced the repair with woven fibreglass cloth. It costs £50+VAT+carriage though I must warn you. If you want the address just ask. I'll bet your leak is under the tank retaining strap-that's where they usually go. I was able to fix mine without even jacking the car up.

[petrolhead611]

Forgot to say, it also takes 24 hours to cure, and I then applied a seond coat plus fibreglass cloth

[MrTibbs]

Yep, that's exactly where it's gone. The underseal can be scraped off with just your finger. Where did you get it from? waiting 24 hours isn't much of a problem as I don't drive much, just running short of time as only have 2 weeks before going on holiday.

Mike