Restsoration update - cross post

grehams · 03-07-2002, 03:28 PM

I have added some new pics to the end of my web page here web page The car is half painted in its new colour, also some pics of a dry assembly of the motor and my efforts at painted center caps.

I also put in some pics showing the clearance issues you get with big turbos.

Wayne.

wolfrpi · 03-07-2002, 03:39 PM

Just rotate the compressor housing and relocate the spring on the throttle body and the turbo will fit fine. Shouldn't take more than 10 minutes.

fty · 03-07-2002, 04:00 PM

Wow the restoration looks great. How much is this costing you to do? -best regards-chris

Eturbo924 · 03-08-2002, 04:25 AM

Just currious. Since you went down to bare metal, did you have the shop put some kind of zinc coating or rust preventative under the paint?

Remember the reason that the Porsches have 10 year anti rust perforation warrenty is due to the hot dip zinc galvinized body. If you went down to bare metal this was removed.

By the way looks like you have done some nice work... and have a very nice detailed site.

Eric

grehams · 03-08-2002, 02:51 PM

Its a good point you make and it had certainly crossed my mind whilst the car was at that stage. Re-doing a galvanised coating on the exposed metal was not feasible so the paint is providing the protection there. By stripping the paint so thoroughly on the car I have been able to verify that there are no hidden spots of damage so I am confident that the properly applied fresh paint will provide adequate protection. Of course there is also the fact that this will be a garaged / fair weather P car only! I havent worked out how I am going to get it dry cleaned yet.

Wayne

03-09-2002, 12:04 AM

Wayne. Great color! What's the type and number? When I get the $$ for a project car....

grehams · 03-09-2002, 06:15 PM

The paint is a custom colour using Sikkens paint. I don't have the mix proportions of the base colours yet but I will get a hold of them before I am done.

Wayne

Mrmerlin · 03-09-2002, 07:22 PM

Hi Bro hey great job on your new baby, I would like to offer some info for you to think about, since the engine is apart I would talk to Huntley racing and have them redrill the crank to add other oil holes for the rod bearings, for some reason and this seems to be the most plausible, the #2 rod bearings fail in these engines, this is possibly due to centrifugal forces spinning the crank and not having sufficient oil pressure to overcome the centrifugal forces the rod fails, I read somwhere that Huntley adds some holes to the rod journals, and they race there cars and since doing this have not had a bearing failure.
One other thing is to have your crank polished ,seriously now folks.........and when you get it back take some brake cleaner and spray atleast 2 whole cans into your crank oil holes to clean out the grinding dirt, also put some oil into the oil pump when you install it otherwise it might not prime,
Make shure you spin the engine with the starter and the plugs out till you get an oil pressure indication, B 4 your first start.
If you dont get a pressure indication the only way to prime the oil pump is to remove the oil filter and pour oil into the filter cavity and then turn by hand the crank pulley in reverse, this will put the oil into the pump galley you will need to pour about 6 oz of oil into the system and turn the crank backwards, This should put a good prime into your system, reinstall the oil filter and crank with the starter till you get a solid oil pressure indication on your gauge.
Well thats all I have to offer for now , by the way the NEW color looks great , it looks like a color called CHROME YELLOW, used on some Italian racing cars, also I have seen this same color on a few pictures of the 968 TURBO, so great job , I hope the money dosnt run out, you will have a wonderful car when your done........Stan

grehams · 03-10-2002, 05:09 PM

Stan,

Thanks for the comments. The crank will be getting polished this week - I would have dearly liked to have the crank lightened and crossdrilled but since my restoration is so extensive I have to draw the line(s) somewhere. If I were starting over I would not have bought some things and would have done others such as the crank and ceramic coatings.

I am somewhat paranoid about grinding paste and other contaminents damaging newly built engines, so the engine and all of its parts have been throughly cleaned several times over. The I opened up the block and head oil galleries to ensure that I could get to every nook and cranny. The crank has already received one similar cleaning and will get the same again when it comes back from the machine shop. When this thing goes back together I don't want any worries about "should I have disassembled and cleaned X".

Thanks for the tip on priming too.

Cheers,
Wayne

PS for anyone looking at replacing seals during a rebuild I just added a table to my web page which comprehensively lists the seals needed (or not) and the sizes - including several parts which dont come in the seal kits.