More annoying questions.
 

I've tried searching for these but couldn't find anything useful. If you know of a post that directly addresses this, please post the link. I don't want to waste other peoples time.

Background: I just bought this car and have no idea of the background. I just fixed the head gasket and now its running just fine, more or less.

1) Engine runs hot: The temp gauge is off the top and has the little red warning light on. I don't think I drove it more than 15 minutes and it got there. The fans do work. The amount of coolant didn't seem to drop at all (I marked it with a dry erase marker). I did a pressure test on the coolant tank up to about 13psi. It dropped about 1 psi for every 5 minutes. Is that significant?

2) Engine belts squeak when the car starts up but goes away after a minute or less. Should I be worried? Is there anyway to tell how old these belts are? If not, what should I replaced (entire belt kit, or just belts).

3) The RPM gauge does not work and neither does the odometer or mpg. Are these related problems? How can I go about fixing this? Could someone also give me the general MPH for each gear so I know when to shift right now?

4) The steering wheel is aftermarket and its set so the wheel isn't straight when the wheels are straight. How do I go about adjusting that? Also, how do I connect the horn.

5)Windshield wipers don't work and neither does the washer fluid.

6) Power seats don't move.

7) Shifter is quite loose, is there a way of tightening the connection to the transmission.

Lots of repair information available.
Try this:
Clark's Garage Home Page

HI,

Please post your year and model car in your signature line, that will help us help you.

Belt squeak could be humidity. Mine does that upon start-up even with brand new belts in the humid summer weather. Probably not an issue since it goes away.

I don't know about the coolant pressure dropping, but I would drain the coolant (making sure you open the pressure release valve) and refill according to Clark's garage. You may need a new thermostat if you have enough coolant, but drain and refill the coolant 1st because the thermostat is not a quick fix.



Good luck,

GHEN

bp944,

Good to hear about the engine.

Overheating,
You have air in the cooling system. Raise the front of the car. Turn on the heater control to hot. Burp the cooling system at the bleeder valve. Do this 5 more times in one week to get all the air out. When burping the cooling system, grab the top radiator hose and squeeze gently. Coolant will come out of the bleeder valve so have a paper towel around the bleeder valve neck to catch the coolant.

If you wanted to do it properly, you could put a hollow fitting on the coolant neck where the bleeder valve is--------attach a long hose and put the other end in the reservoir. Burp the system as mentioned 5 times.

Belt sqeek.
You might have oil/coolant on the belts. Wait or only tighten a little on each--not a lot.

Gauges do not work. Clean every ground and connection. There is a big ground under the dash by the drivers side.

Shifter--Shift lever.

Separate the shift lever from the shift rod under the leather and rubber boot. Do not loose the "E" clip. If the shift lever has worn where it attaches to the shift rod like an hour glass---you have to repair or replace the shift lever.

There is also a plastic cup under the shift lever that can crack. Remove the 2 bolts and check. MARK the PLATE before you unbolt. When you rebolt the plate, make sure the shift lever is at a 85 degree angle in relation to the torque tube.

GL
John

I feel quite foolish. I looked at the gauge again this morning and realized its the oil level.

Eventhough I don't have a coolant problem, should I still burp the system?

I'll check into the grounds and we'll see what happens.

If I am still quite awful at shifting (my first manual), I probably should avoid a short shifter?

Glad to hear your oil pressure is OK ;)

Check the shift lever for wear.

Read post #8

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-924-944-968-technical-forum/626310-just-bought-1984-944-needs-complete-suspension-freshening-brakes-suggestions.html#post6215059

GL
John

I notice when I shift there's a lot of noise coming from the transmission especially when I down shift. Its a whine, sounds like a little electric motor but I don't think its anything electric. Do I just need to change the transmission fluid or is it something more?

Also, the entire car starts to smell like smoke/exhaust after about 10 minutes. I'm wondering if I have a hole in my exhaust. Also, does someone have a video of the stock car and how it sounds? I'm guessing if its the exhaust my car will sound louder. I also think a lot of the smell is coming through the shifter boot since its barely connected to the shifter.

Due to the condition of the car, put Valvoline High Performance gear oil in. It is cheap and sold at O'Reilly auto parts and others.

Before you drain the transaxle, make sure you can get the refill plug loose on top of the drain plug.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1314273522.jpg

Get some CV grease and repack your 4 CV joints. Get a 8mm 12 point/triple square hex for the bolts.

Smell---yes check the exhaust manifold flange gasket and the donuts on the tail pipe. Check for holes in the muffler and catalytic convertor.

Get a HUGE Pine tree air freshener and hang it from your mirror ;).

GL
John

John, you are the man!

So I took my car out on the highway for the first time and I couldn't get enough power to get past 90mph and it took forever to get there. Any ideas as to what would cause such a low top speed?

a strong head wind. LOL. Was your AC on? sounds like you have a couple more bugs to work out.

pb944,

Did you keep the 1/4 can of SeaFoam?
You could put it in the intake via the vacuum hose to clean out the crud.
Follow the can directions.

Fuel system:
Clogged fuel tank "fuel strainer"
Clogged "anti drain back" part on the fuel pump
Fuel Injectors----Replace or have them cleaned professionally

WitchHunter Performance - Injector Cleaning & Flow Testing Services or similiar

It could be the AFM sensor plate/pivot plate not fully opening. Remove the air cleaner and carefully move the AFM "door". Check for any slight resistance in movement.
You might want to clean the pivots with CRC fuel injection and throttle body cleaner---NOT carburator cleaner! O'Reilly auto parts and others.

If the sensor plate moves freely, it could be the contacts under the black plastic cap on the AFM. If this area is worn, it will not send the correct signal to the DME.
Here is an explanation from Clarks:

Air Flow Meter (AFM) Operation and Testing

There are a few videos available :
Rejuvenating a Bosch Motronic Air Flow Meter - YouTube

Just a couple of ideas...

GL
John