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Go right to compound without claying first?
I just washed my 85.5 (color I think is Diamond (or sapphire?) Blue Metallic - using Meguiars soap, followed by some clay, some "Ultimate Compound" (just in spots) and a quick wax.
My impressions are that the clay really did not have much effect (maybe was not really needed?) - but that the compound seems very effective. At this point I'm tempted to just go ahead and rub the entire car with compound (without claying), then splurge on the "Ultimate Liquid Wax" to finish. Thing is, the finish isn't all that bad - but maybe a little dulled from years of not being washed/waxed. Any comments, and/or sage advice? |
Clay does do what they say.
Test it your self: Run your hand across the hood after washing it then again after claying it, you WILL feel the difference. (it's works great on windows too) |
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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1314395649.jpghttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1314395906.jpg:D |
Interesting experiment I found on a detailing site - put your hand in a plastic baggie run your hand across the cars surface. You will feel contaminants you can not see. Then try claying a section of your car and repeat the above test. This made a believer out of me.
There are even clay products specifically for glass. In a momentary lapse of reason I signed up to show my car at Club Day for the Milwaukee Masterpiece tomorrow so I spent my spare time for several weeks cleaning instead of driving. I hate cleaning. Do it right the first time. |
+1 on the baggie trick.
you will be amazed at the difference before & after using the clay bar |
Claying really does work. It gets a lot of stuff - like tar and paint overspray - that otherwise are really hard to get off. For me it's a once a year sort of thing.
Another thing I do periodically is polish my cars. Polish, not wax. I use a random orbital buffer (a Porter Cabel 7424) and different density Lakes Country polishing pads. Depending on how bad the damage is - oxidation, swirl marks, whatever, I usually start with an intermediate cutting compound - I use XMT Intermeidiate Swirl Remover#3 and work up to a XMT Ultra Fine Swirl Remover #1 . Then a Carnuba wax glaze, then finally the actual wax (my favorite - Pinnacle Liquid Souveren Wax - it's particularly great for black cars.). If the damage is really bad, I may start with some wet sanding using 1500 or 2000 grit sandpaper. Claying and polishing is a hassle and might take 3-4 hours or even longer, but it's really worth it. My 83 NA just after having been clayed, polished and waxed: http://www.mikepellegrini.com/Photos...s/DSCF5112.JPG |
Clay is a little tricky to use correctly, though. Did you spray a lot of the detailer when you were doing it? The clay should never grip. Also, if you drop the clay, don't use it again. That's why you want to use small pieces at a time.
It can be tricky to do right but it does help. Clay in and of itself won't really make any big difference. Did you also use a polish on the car, or did you go straight from compound to wax? The tech wax is a really good. The other reason I like it is because you can layer it on-as in, wax the car multiple times to have a stronger protective layer. It's not an actual wax-it's a polymer sealant. Good stuff-it's not really expensive and it's easy to find. I like the Turtle Wax Ice for shininess-but the stuff doesn't last at all. P21S is a nice wax to put on AFTER you use a polish, like Menzerna. |
Here is a link to a place i get my car products from. You may find some cheaper here at Pelican. There are some how to guides as well. A must read.
Car Detailing How To Information The leather conditioner and cleaner is fantastic. Your car will smell like new. And not like the fake leather smell that some products give. |
[QUOTE=seafeye;6222234]
Car Detailing How To Information http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1314545338.jpg One thing I don't agree with in their advertisement is using water in the engine bay don't matter how well you cover sensors/electrical connectors & so on.Try to coverall those properly in a 924/944/951/968 engine bay and you'll find yourself in the middle of a nigthmare.I've done quite a few engine bay detailing in my lifetime and never did use water on any of them.Paint brushs-Rags-Q-Tips-Varsole & electical cleaner are my tools plus lol my own knuckles blood, of course I'm old school.Some of the results.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1314546828.jpg-968 http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1314546909.jpghttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1314547071.jpg-944 |
what happens when you drive in the rain?
doesn't water get all over the motor? As long as you don't use very high water pressure, it's perfectly fine to rinse off the motor with water nice looking motors BTW |
Rather just use some simple green and elbow grease.
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How would water get in specially in the engine bay of a 944.It has a protective plate covering almost half the motor from underneath,I feel that plate (or plates depending on the model are very important not only does it help cool the motor but will also keep the water out if you happen to run in a large puddle.Another thing it does well is to keep most road S*H*T out such as mud ect out,beside if your driving around & the engine is hot the little amount of water that will get in there will instantly dissipatehttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/suppo.../coffeecup.gif |
Ernie - I always appreciate your pictures. Keep up the good work!
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I've seen engine bay degreasers that claim to work by just spraying on their foaming cleaner and rinsing it off with a garden hose 15min later. Not only am I worried about excessive amounts of water in my engine bay, but I imagine covering everything with degreaser would cause some rubber or plastic tubes / hoses to crack. Is this a legitimate concern or could it work? What about degreaser that gets on body paint?
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Just like wheel cleaners that spray on and hose off...they don't work.
Baked on grease means baked on work. |
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