Most sites I see the S2 cab is just under 2900, mine was heavier though when it was weighed before the swap. The 968 shows to be heavier by a few hundred pounds. Why? IDK........ There was a few more things I did that I did not list.

Suggest you get hold of those guy & discuss exactly what your expecting from your S2 suspension.Very trustworthy & knowledgeable when it come to S2 & you got a PM Paragon Products - Porsche Parts & Accessories - Koni, Pagid, K&N, Bilstein, Racers Edge, Weltmeister, Porsche suspension, porsche brakes, 911 parts, 944 parts, 968 parts, 914 parts, 930 parts, boxster parts, cayman parts, 968, cayenne

I use my S2 cab in the summer as a sunshine daily driver. My priorities were a sporty handling car that would not be too harsh for the wife and kids to ride with me.

It rides on 17" Twist wheels.

I did the hacksaw insert Koni Sports in the front on 951 strut housings and Weltmeister 200# springs that lower the car 1.25" (the s2 strut housings limit the springs you can use)

KLR strut top bearings.

968 caster blocks.

All new bushings front and back

Koni sport shocks in the back

Racing dynamics strut bar

Lowered the back with the eccentrics.

IMPORTANT: Had the ride height and alignment done by someone who knows these cars. A bit costly but worth every penny.

In the end the car is a pleasure to drive. I have not tracked it but on the street it is very well balanced and just a tick firmer feeling then stock without being uncomfortable and I live in the pot hole capital of the world (Montreal)

Good luck with your project.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1314909221.jpg

+1 on the 17's. I have 19's on mine and it's ok but not great. 18's were better I imagine 17's would be even better. I want to find some design 90's in 9" so I can use the stock 16's.

You should keep it no lower than 17" otherwise your choice of tires will suffer tremendously since it's getting harder & harder to find tires in 15-16 which will do a decent job ,do a search on 16" tires available for your car & you'll know what I mean.:)

Most of the 17's that I find I hate.......

18's on my 928. Think i will go with 17s on the cab.

What about the clutch? Stage 2 or stock?

Nice car by the way. Wouldnt mind seeing some pics of your cabs on this thread either. Can't wait to get the clutch and belt in mine. Also...... im sure this has been covered but do you have to pull the valve cover to check the tensioner pads?

If your talking about those yes you do & the DIY has been covered on many threads either here or RL .http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1314925826.jpg

Yes you have to pull the valve cover to check the tensioner pads. If you don't know when they were last changed and they are not pristine you should consider changing them ASAP. Not a very hard or costly job. There are a couple of DIY's around for that. A good one on Rennlist you can look for in the DIY area.

Thanks for the compliment on the car. I love to show it off so here is a side view to give you an idea on how it sits with the 1.25 inch lower springs. I am not crazy about the wheels but have other real life things to spend my money on at the moment so will stick with them.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1314926338.jpg

I'd replace the t-bars with something that matches the fronts you choose. One example: my 931 has 300#/27mm. Quite stiff, but fun.

not sure where you got that from but 27mm has a an effective rate of 220# not 300# - actually fairly soft - as an example, the 968 and the S2 cab come with a 25.5mm torsion at 175# effective rate - so, 220 in a 924 would "feel" a bit stiffer, but in an S2, which is quite a bit heavier, it would still be relatively soft

to have an effective rate of 300# in an S2 you would need a coil spring of 535lbs or a torsion bar of 29.5mm

300 in front, 27mm in the rear. . .doubling the factory spring rate at both ends. Koni yellows all around, it is quite stiff.

according to the workshop manual, an S2 cab (not to be confused with the earlier S2 which had different stuff), has 175# torsion bars (25.5mm) and should be 135# springs (unless it had a sport suspension or the turbo running gear which is 160# - it's not clear which one is in there).

to double the factory rate at the rear, you would need to run a 30.5mm torsion bar .

you would need a 270# or 320# spring up front, depending on the gear it had. 300 is pretty much right in the middle of those 2, but a more accurate choice for either would have been 275 or 325. probably not much of a difference in handling though

the workshop manual lists all of the springs the cars came with, and there is a really nice torsion bar effective rate chart on the paragon site, as well as a list of what bars the cars came with

I will try to use these post to gain some understanding. Lol you're saying no coilovers in the rear but change the spring rate accordingly or add coilivers and soften the torsion rate, blending the two?

I think that most people that go coilovers in the back eliminate the torsion bar.

yup - the problem with any of the coilover kits is that unless you either reindex the torsion bars so they are no longer holding the car up, you have to add a tender spring and coupler to prevent the coil springs from dropping loose during wheel drop, unless you add preload to the spring to prevent it, which then raises the rear end of the car

rear spring rate changes are a slippery slope - not wanting to get into the painful process of reindexing, i went the coilover route, deleting the torsion bars - it took a long time to sort that out properly, from the torsion bar housing bushings needed to anchor the swing arm, to the spherical ends required on the shocks because rubber won't work for long, to getting the damping right on the shocks so as to provide a smooth ride while giving better performance

if i had to do it over again, i would have gone with bigger torsion bars instead - i want 300# at each corner, so that would mean a 29.25mm torsion bar (i could live with a 29 at 292#)

i've since set up quite a few cars, with varying degrees of stiffness in suspension, depending on the kind of driving to be done - it has been fun to see the responses and grins on the faces of the owners - the biggest noticeable change has been from the bracing though - even on a stock car it makes a huge difference - i have a cab like that too - totally stock suspension, but all 3 braces - everyone who drives it asks what kind of suspension i have, because it handles so much better - the braces dramatically reduce the camber change, and allow the suspension to be optimized

have fun

3 braces? I get strut bar and lower brace in the front. What did you install in the back?

I left my torsion bars in and used the coil overs to stiffen the ride a bit.

Im with you flash. Braces first. I will ponder these options more.

What about a clutch? Anybody running a Lindsey stage 2?