1 of many problems? maybe not
 

Hello to all, I have been reading alot of info in several forums and so far this one looks the most helpful of them all. On to the goods -so i decided it was time to bring home my first child that had been sitting in temp control storage the last 16 years 84 944 30,000k on her. While trying to start she just wasnt getting any fuel, While cranking engine fuel will go through the rail but not inj. So my first question is when the key is in the on position can you hear the pump run, or is this the correct way the pump works? Thankyou so much for any help

16 year old gas? it's probably gummed up the entire fuel system.

You say the fuel gets to the rail......................

When you crank the engine, do you see the tach needle bounce 1/16th of an inch?

If yes,

Get a NOID lite and check to see if the DME computer is sending a signal to the injectors.

WILMAR BOSCH PFI FUEL INJECTION NOID TEST LIGHT W85102 | eBay

If you get a signal, Test the Fuel pressure by putting a pressure guage on the end of the fuel rail.

If you have pressure, pull the injectors and send them to a cleaning & balance shop.
WitchHunter Performance - Injector Cleaning & Flow Testing Services is often mentioned.

You could do a DIY clean found on this forum:
Pelican Technical Article: 944 Fuel Injector Clean & Reseal

Get 4 injector kits a a local parts store.

GL & welcome
John

Did you drain all the gas and put fresh stuff in it?

I would change the fuel filter too.

Yes drained what was in the tank but it was mixed 50/50 with fuel cond when i put it up, when drained no rust but replaced fuel very true thankyou i will put a new one on it. and about the fuel rail, when the key is turned on no fuel will come out of fuel rail. But when you crank the engine over it has alot of pressure in the fuel rail. Thankyou again, i will try what has been listed so far

Sorry it just dawned on me, Car was started and ran for 45min appox 5 years ago also. New fuel that was put in is making it to the fuel rail no problem. Tried starting fuild first thing with no luck other than it was trying, so plugs have fire also checked wires as well. And no i did not notice the tach bounce at anytime but will double check that as well tonight.

thank you john, i replaced filter and cranked her and my luck no bounce on tach needle. not sure whats next but will be doing as you suggested thanks again.

Change the DME/Fuel pump relay with your spare or make a jumper:
DME Relay Information and Testing

You now need to check the reference sensors.

Do the resistance check per Clarks:
Speed and Reference Sensors - Checking, Replacement, and Adjustment

Clean the pins carefully when you are done and check for frayed wires at the plastic connections.

Hopefully it is just a bad sensor. If you have a bad sensor, get the cheaper interchange.

If the sensors are OK, gap the sensors per Clarks.

Check for tach bounce when cranking again.

No tach bounce? Jiggle the DME and wires carefully Per Clarks:
DME Computer - Testing and Inpsecting

Check for tach bounce again. Continue...

Now you have to do basic cleaning and tests. Clean all grounds at the bell housing. Cover the TDC hole with tape so you do not drop a nut in the hole.

Is the battery fully charged?

The early 944s often had a bad ignition switch:
http://www.clarks-garage.com/pdf-manual/elect-17.pdf

More tests.............
Troubleshooting - Engine

Hopefully you will find the problem before you discover the DME computer at fault>

GL
JOhn

My 924 has sitted 10years and after gettinng it to run again the problem was rusted fuelpump, that did not run.. and after changing the pump, the engine was trying to start with fresh fuel but did not get enough to start the engine.. then I heard that the 2stroke oil mixed with fuel, helps to open jammed fuel injectors, and it did and it started but only with 3 cylinders.. then I gently knocked the injectors and it helped, after that it runs smoothly

it is better that you mix the 2stroke oil and fuel before you put it to your tank..
I think it is enough 10liter fuel and 0,5-1liter 2stroke oil.

Wow thankyou so much for the info, Dang i cant wait for the day to be over now to start, think i have lost some hair from scratching my head until now lol. Just cant thankyou guys enuff, i will see if i cant atleast get some pics of her on here. all smiles now that i have a some great starting points.

Tell Us if the 2stroke oil helped :)

putting oil in the furl i havnt tried but the inj are not getting grounded from dme in order to recive signal. So now just working on cleaning up the board to see if i can run down the problem area.

are they even electric?

if they are, I think that if they get voltage to work before motor is running then the cylinders get full of fuel, right?

so like the fuel pump, it runs i little time and then halts for the pressure and after motor is started, then the pump is running again..

so I think that the problem is not with the DME
(I have never dealed with the DME) but i think that it wont fail over 16year of standing.. I doupth that...

and change the batterys and motor ground cables.

And even electric injectors can be stuck

Hello to all again, Just an update, had to wait wait on skin to grow back around my head, forehead, and ass checks from scratching them so much lmao. anyway have been alittle busy with all the non important things, geez who needs work anyway lol, car still isnt running went ahead and orderd another dme relay, and ref sensor just in case and will have tommorow and will update, no wammie no wammie. But after cleaning all grounds and also adding 2 large additional grounds one around battery and another to engine block have to say she did perk up some " alittle quicker turnning of engine and lights are brighter ". So after today i will be checking to make sure ref. sensor is able to even get a signal from flywheel if not then DME here we come. P.S. anyone know a magic spell you can shout to fix these cars.

have you tested for spark?
has your motor runned since you took it out from standing?

if you have spark, just test the 2stroke oil fuel mix.

I have no oppinion and glue where would the DME fail on standing without battery or with battery?

does it even fail so easily?

backto my car with "flashback".. when i changed the oil, I just started it, but no luck because the fuelpump was rusted, and after changed that the car was trying to start but no luck, after the 2 stroke oil, miracle happend, it started but only with 3 cylinders..............

Update: after install of another new dme relay "just in case" and also new speed and ref sensors and cleaning all grounds and adding some more beefed up grounds still no start. All tests were performed, and i mean all other than the dme itself. without a true break down of dme i could not conferm where the problem area is for sure " had some odd readings" SO as it stands no power to fuel pump unless jumped, and noid light will not light. also no tach bounce, But have spark and fuel pressure but still no signal from dme to ground inj, Just would like to say thank you to all who have offerd help and gave a leading hand cause without it i would probly put her back in storage another 20 years. THANK YOU ALL. i will post pics and the break down in detail after she gets back on her feet.

thats odd.. there is a spark and the fuel? but no flame.. :eek:
have you checked the "spark distributor"?

are you sure that you did not put diesel on you tank? :D

Lol yea i am sure it correct fuel, its not going to start if inj do not get a signal to fire. "grounding signal". Ground coming from dme is what the problem is, also controling fuel pump. Thank you for the input though. At this point heck it might work putting it in the tank lmao. I wish

I purchased a 1983 last year for my son that the PO could not start. Turned out to be a common problem, ignition switch.

Quick easy test, turn the ignition switch on but do not try to start. Check the ignition coil for 12 volts to ground, if you don't, it's the switch. If you have the voltage then try and start the engine. Do not turn the ignition switch off when you release the key, leave it turned on, then check again for voltage at the coil. I fould that I would have voltage if I turned it on, but would loose it when I attempted to start.

Drove me nuts for a couple of days, tried everything. O-scoped the sensors, checked wiring, looked for tach bounce, fuel pump, DME (PO supplied that), grounds, coil, relays and anything else that I could think of to look. Worked for me, costs nothing to try.

Good luck.

Hello to all again, got busy and had to wait on a new dme to show up. So now its time for the ground breaking news........... abra ca dab ra! ho cus pokus! Well dang so magic and new dme did not change a darn thing. Still nothing, no tach, no fuel pump, no light from noid. Its sad to say but i am starting to laugh about it alot since that atleast puts a smile on my face. Anyway anyone else with same problems I will say a prayer for u and for myself.

Its mad at you for putting her away for so long. Pics?

lol yea you have a hell of an angle lol i will agree with ya and that is a good point on pics i will go and take some right now and will attempt to load on this new computer.

Well it is time for the update. Have to order another sensor either speed or ref. One of my new ones must have been damaged in shipping. So after running the the test for the dme and also at the sensor it just made it offical. All problems that i was having lead to both sensors. So if your have been reading this all the way through, word to the wise not only buy both sensors but take the time to ohm them out before installing them. Also on the 83 and 84 model there is no need for checking clearance gap since at least my bracket does not adjust. So when another new sensor gets here she should fire. SHOULD I JUST KNOW IT. Thanks to all for your info in all the forums. Just cant say it enuff

Its alive and running like a champ. So to all having no start problems and have been reading this take note. If you have an idea that one of your sensors are bad replace both, buy from ebay very cheap. After install run dme check through the dme harness as per ECUdotors.com, it was the best and fastest test so far to check everything running into and out of dme. Also Thanks to all of you again for support and goerge and Jose at ecu doctors. Also i now have all my hair back even in the hard to reach areas lmao.

Glad it is running like a champ.

I found this ECU tutoral, are there others?

How to test a Porsche 944 RPM and TDC sensor

John

Thats the correct one. Also there is a full harness pin test, Calif cars included, ex would be pin 10 is absent for non calif cars. Thankyou for posting the link John_AZ.

Do you have a full harness pin test from ECUDoctors in PDF or can you scan the info and post it?

I have this one:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/5676317-post5.html

Thanks
John

Great job Thats it! the one you posted John. Thats the test. For me atleast trying to review some of the other tests were alittle hard to understand, at times since at that time i was not understanding the entire way the system worked on the car. I have used a scope and everything else i could get my hands on still no start and no data to prove what was wrong. So only thing to do was order a new dme. Now have 2 working DME's. Turns out my new ref sensor was totally dead. I just hope this info helps some folks out. All you need is a mulitimeter....

Do the timing belt an balance belt before it breaks and off comes the head.