![]() |
|
|
|
Eureka912
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Northcoast of California in Eureka
Posts: 115
|
![]() ![]() dws
__________________
1966 Porsche 912-1966 Studebaker Commander V8 1981 Mercedes 380SL-1984 Porsche 944 1986 Jaguar XJ-S V12-1986 Corvette C4 Z51 2007 Audi A4 Quattro Cabriolet(wife's ride) 2010 BMW 328i/M Sport(my daily) |
||
![]() |
|
Registered User
|
Hi,
I had the same issue with mine. If you take the spare wheel out you'll find the motor. There are cables (like a throttle cable or a brake cable on a pushbike) that pulls the linkages on each pin. You can adjust this with a couple of nuts on the cable. Haven't got a photo unfortunately, but if you look at it hopefully you'll see what I mean. Adjusting it should allow you to open the hatch even if it doesn't pop up fully on it's own. Good luck Mike
__________________
1986 924S, Maraschino Red, Spax adjustable dampers, no air box lid. part way through interior swap. Lots of issues sorted, plenty more to do. 1986 924S, White, donor car, part way through disassembly. |
||
![]() |
|
Proprietoristicly Refined
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: ~Carefree Highway~
Posts: 5,833
|
Look at the hole where the hatch pins fit. There is a rubber sleeve inside the receiver. If the rubber sleeve is old, breaking apart or missing, you will not get your hatch to release.
The rubber sleeve is bad------there are no parts to replace it. Shop for a set of used receivers on ebay with good rubber sleeves or buy a new receiver $$$$$ There is a seller who make a "delrin" sleeve for the receiver- his last price was $50 or so. If you have good sleeves, adjust the receiver by loosening the 2 nuts underneath, open the "claws" with one hand and twist until the pin is exactly centered. Not easy to do. I do it by crawling in the hatch area, closing the hatch, open the claws and while twisting the receiver, I lift the hatch with my shoulder until there is no "catching" of the pin. I can do this because I only weigh 90 pounds. JK GL John
__________________
1988 924S, 85,750K ..+ 1987 924S, 154K DD (+15K est. bad odo) |
||
![]() |
|
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 10
|
EDIT
-wrong post- lol |
||
![]() |
|
Desertt5
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: ABQ, NM
Posts: 391
|
If Iread yur original post correct, that is what mine did. Once you hit the release switch, you really couldn't see the hatch move, but you could open it by hand. Maybe I misread something, but it sounds like it is fine. Unless mine was broke and I never knew it.
__________________
Semper Fi |
||
![]() |
|
Eureka912
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Northcoast of California in Eureka
Posts: 115
|
No, can not even lift it by hand.
dws
__________________
1966 Porsche 912-1966 Studebaker Commander V8 1981 Mercedes 380SL-1984 Porsche 944 1986 Jaguar XJ-S V12-1986 Corvette C4 Z51 2007 Audi A4 Quattro Cabriolet(wife's ride) 2010 BMW 328i/M Sport(my daily) |
||
![]() |
|
![]() |
Banned
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 683
|
To my understanding the hatch release button is not intended to be used as per Porsche and is intended as an "emergency" release only.
|
||
![]() |
|
Proprietoristicly Refined
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: ~Carefree Highway~
Posts: 5,833
|
Have not heard that but it sounds like it might be th right thing to do.
IF you can use the hatch release button, you will probably have new hatch shocks installed to make it work. The pressure on the metal frame surrounding the glass will be sufficient to separate the frame from the glass due to the age of the frame sealant. Resealing is required and if you have any tinting on the hatch, it will be damaged. I only put on used hatch supports that will keep the hatch up when I open by hand but are not strong enough to lift it from the body. GL John
__________________
1988 924S, 85,750K ..+ 1987 924S, 154K DD (+15K est. bad odo) |
||
![]() |
|
Garage Helper
|
Originally when our cars were new and even newish the new hatch struts would lift the hatch all the way open when the hatch button, located by the drivers left under dash panel, was pushed. Well now days with all of the de-lamination of the hatch glass/frame it is not the best idea to replace the hatch struts with new ones. The used struts in most cases will push open to a certain degree the rear hatch so it may then be lifted by hand to the open position. If the old struts are not strong enough to lift the hatch a little, then the lower catches will close immediately, and in these cases the button not allow the hatch to be opened because it re-locked before it was lifted.
As most hatches are now days the combination of week struts and the compressed rubber seals around the hatch allow us to push the button and then go around back and by hand lift the hatch open. In my most recent car here now I placed new hatch struts in it a couple of years ago and they still work to fully lift the hatch open, and no de-lamination so far (Knock on head for luck ...or was that wood).
__________________
78-924 traded for 80-931 traded for 84-944 traded for 85.5-944 (7th one now). ![]() UAV-M1 (Urban Assault Vehicle - Model 1) Bless the lowered, and pass the nitromethane. Pedal to the metal till you see the gates of hell then brake NLA - No longer available is a four letter word |
||
![]() |
|
Registered User
|
If you can't open it after pressing the release button I'd investigate the linkage and the holes the pins go into. Mine wasn't opening when I got the car. Now when I press the button it does unlatch so that I can lift the hatch by hand (I adjusted the linkage).
Mike
__________________
1986 924S, Maraschino Red, Spax adjustable dampers, no air box lid. part way through interior swap. Lots of issues sorted, plenty more to do. 1986 924S, White, donor car, part way through disassembly. |
||
![]() |
|