no gasket. The biggest concern I would have after the shaft got flung around like that is for the cage that holds the ball bearings in place getting cracked. If it did, your CV joint is on its way out, if not, you are lucky.
I would be concerned with the bent flange too. It does keep grease in and dirt out.

I looked at the wrong flange. That one looks like the actual axle hub...probably not good.

Just a side thought.. The dog ear is a high velocity part, high RPM's, if part of it is lost, it's out of balance, out of balance, a bearing is under stress. How long until the bearing in the tranny casing goes to hell? I love having something to do, I don't half ass anything, I want to do this right. I can tap the bugger back into place, but what if it breaks off while driving, don't think I want this, I'll replace the parts and move on. Thanks Fritz

my car just did that, and broke 2 bolts to my CV!!!! luckily, did it around my neighborhood, no damage. Cleaned the threads and put new bolts in, all good.

Mine went before I got around to doing the axle swap (~135K). I would suggest doing it if your axles have over 100K on them. Remember that they need to be either flipped 180 degrees and kept on the same side, or swap sides with no flip. Cleaned and re-greased is obviously also part of that procedure.

Other than the increased viscosity drag (causing maybe a slight fuel economy drop, at the worst) from the heavier bearing grease that I injected though the boots after putting 100 miles on the remans (with the CV grease that came with them), does anyone see any other negative repercussions that could result from this waaay-out-of-the-box procedure? I can't believe that I have not seen even a single comment regarding it. It HAS appeared in a few other threads. Are we still on topic?

No need to remove the transaxle
 

You don't have to remove the trans-axle to get the stub flange out. It is held in by one long bolt. You will see it in the center when you remove the axle. Use a suitable punch, through one of the mounting holes, to hold the stub flange while you unscrew the bolt. Might as well replace the seal(s) WYAUT. Installation is reverse of removal. Torque center bolt to 18 lb-ft.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1318345274.jpg

Thank you very much for all the replies! Part number 016 409 355 A. Ordered it today from Parts Haven in northern Cal. Also have six new bolts coming with it. Done business with these people before. Good service and good prices. Damage was more severe than the picture showed. Per Clark's, I'm going to put the car up on ramps and de-grease and power wash to get rid of all cast off grease to have a clean environment to work in. I'll remove each axle, CV joint (one at a time, so not to mix up parts one to the other) clean, inspect and re-grease. Boots are fine and will be reused. I do have a question, why when I was on DC Automotive and a couple of other used parts sites, they recommend buying two? Now the biggest question of all...This goes to SolRever...What color speed stripes makes the car go faster??? LOL!!! I'm thinking RED!!! Thanks, Fritz

Tim, great talk'n to you today! You'll be my used parts go to guy from now on. Freaky, talked to Jason today, he gives me your number, and then you ask me if I'm the guy on the thread who lost all six bolts. Gotta love the internet! Thanks, Fritz

Fritz,
My pleasure. We're here to serve the 944/924S community specifically.
Glad you replaced the tranny flange. That one was too far gone to bother with. I have buckets of those things- some with broken off CV bolts still in them!
If anybody needs tranny parts, PM me or go to the website and email. I have at least a DOZEN broken trannies in the shop!
Cheers!

Up-dating an older post. Got my parts in today. My question because I didn't see this addressed on Clark's, do I need a new Radial Shaft Seal, pn#016 409 399 B? The one in place is not leaking. I would think it's like a wheel bearing seal with the spring inside. Thoughts? Thanks, Fritz