944S 16V experts or knowers in Los Angeles?

mhariush · mhariush's Garage

In need of some help with my 944S 16v in Los Angeles. The car is in my garage in West Hollywood and won't fire up.

Anyone know someone who knows the 16V good in the area?

v2rocket_aka944 · 10-27-2011, 03:05 PM

PM en route

doabarrelroll · 10-28-2011, 02:48 PM

+1 on V2, let me know if you guys need any help.

mhariush · mhariush's Garage

Still a mystery why it won't start.

The starter burned out after being enganged while the car was running. Switched out with a new starter, but now it cranks but doesnt fire. Fuel pump, injectors, and sparks not fireing.

Checked DME Relay, good. Checked Speed/Ref sensors, cleaned, good. Checked connectors to them, good. Checked coil, good. By-passed alarm system, not the problem.

Any hot tips?

Timmay! · 10-29-2011, 11:23 AM

If you're positive you're not getting fuel or spark......
It's something in common between those 2 systems, no?
The DME relay powers up the computer AND the fuel pump. If the relay is known good, go further back in the path. The DME relay is powered by the ignition switch.
You might have damaged the ignition switch by running the power for the starter thru it for a while. In fact, the starter staying on could , I suppose, have been caused by the ignition switch not returning to KEY 2 (run) from KEY 3 (start).
Disconnect the battery.
Get up under the dash and pull the black connector off the back of the ignition switch.
Connector and the wiring still look ok?

mhariush · mhariush's Garage

Timmay! Checked the wiring for the ignition switch, and swapped it with a newer one that I know works. Still no change on the firing up. BUT, now when the key is in position 2, the cruise control unit is clicking/buzzing. Unplugged it for now.

Timmay! · 10-30-2011, 09:59 PM

Cruise control computer is the silver 6" long box below the driver's end of the dash, agreed? If it's clicking/buzzing, that could be the column switch (wand).
Alarm unit is in the passenger footwell. If it's not happy, it will make a tic-tock sound when you try to start the car. How was the alarm bypassed?

mhariush · mhariush's Garage

I'm referring to the Cruise control VDO in the driver side engine compartment, in front of the battery.
Yes, tried bypassing the alarm as per Clark's Garage. No change.

Timmay! · 10-30-2011, 11:32 PM

Ok, got it.
...wish I had the car in front of me.
I'm still leaning towards damaged wiring?
Did you put the alarm system back in place?
If the ignition switch and it's plastic connector are ok, try ohming the wire path to the DME relay trigger line with the key on. I don't have the manuals with me now.
On a completely different tack.......Can You verify that the trigger(s) on the flywheel are in place and in good shape?

doabarrelroll · 10-31-2011, 12:12 PM

Check the ignition control module as well. It's the little guy plugged in right behind the driver's side headlamp and mounted to the frame.

+1 on also check the reference sensors for the appropriate gap and that they are plugged into the right places.

mhariush · mhariush's Garage

Timmay, I'll check the resistance on the wires. As far as I know the triggers on the flywheel are ok, how would i go about checking them? Can you see them through the observation hole on top or where the starter is installed?

doabarrelsroll, I've checked the connector going into the Ignition Control Unit, it's getting 12v. How would I check to see if the module itself is damaged?

mhariush · mhariush's Garage

Update.

I tested the fuel pump/dme relay as per the manual by connecting a test lead between two pins on the DME plug, and the fuel pump didn't engange with the ignition on.

I also tried to jump the dme relay with a 3-way wire on 87, 87b and 30 and this did not engange the fuel pump either with the ignition on, and when I tired to start it, it just kept cranking as usual.

What to look for after this? Any ideas anyone?

And I have a new Ignition Control Module coming, should be here by the end of the week. Let's see what that does or doesnt do.

Thanks!

iplagolf · iplagolf's Garage

Hello...Have you checked the ignition switch? If you jumped the DME socket with the 3 wire jumper and the fuel pump did not engage, you're not getting power to that area. The only starting problem I've ever had with my car was went out one morning, car would crank but not fire. Had it towed to a local garage, the mechanic reached under the dash and the switch came apart in his hand. Installed a new switch and it started and continues to start. I'd check it or have it checked before you start swapping out lots of parts. I know I don't know a lot about the wiring on these cars (thank goodness for this site) but I'd start at the beginning and work my way down the line. Fritz

doabarrelroll · 11-03-2011, 09:08 AM

Does the tach bounce a little bit while you are cranking?

mhariush · mhariush's Garage

Swapped the igntion switch to a newer switch from a running car, so the switch is good.

The Tac doesnt bounce, checked the speed sensors, they're clean, no damage to them and the connectors are good and snug. The speed sensor is fairly new as well.

Sirius Driver · Sirius Driver's Garage

You've done the best you could. Time to take her in. Tow it to TRE or other closer 944 dudes

bazar01 · bazar01's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by mhariush

Update.

I tested the fuel pump/dme relay as per the manual by connecting a test lead between two pins on the DME plug, and the fuel pump didn't engange with the ignition on.

I also tried to jump the dme relay with a 3-way wire on 87, 87b and 30 and this did not engange the fuel pump either with the ignition on, and when I tired to start it, it just kept cranking as usual.

What to look for after this? Any ideas anyone?

And I have a new Ignition Control Module coming, should be here by the end of the week. Let's see what that does or doesnt do.

Thanks!

With the 3-wire jumper, fuel pump should run right away even with the ignition switch off. terminal 30 is a constant 12V feed.
Test terminal 30 for 12V with a meter. If there is no short, put a temporary +12V feed from battery to terminal 30 and see if the fuel pump runs. You should hear the fuel pump humm. Try starting if the fuel pump runs.

mhariush · mhariush's Garage

thanks bazar, im heading out now to check the fuel pump, replace the filter and I'll check terminal 30 for voltage.

mhariush · mhariush's Garage

So, I checked terminal 30 with a spade plug into it with the red wire on the volt meter and the black on the - battery and it came up with 11.86 volts, so close enough i think.

I went under to change my fuel filter, gotta change that anyway, and I also looked at the pump. I disconnected the green wire on the pump and used a test lead from + on battery to the fuel pump where the green goes, no action.
I disconnected the brown wire and used my volt meter, with the battery to the car connected, and check the two wires with the ignition in "on", all the way to the right, before it cranks, and i got no reading at all. Will it only show a reading when the car cranks? Or should it still show voltage?

mhariush · mhariush's Garage

I tried test point 15 on page 136 of the 16V manual.
I connected a test lead with a spade on each end to the two pins it says. But nothing happened. Then i turned the key to "on", still nothing. I tried Cranking the engine and i heard the fuel pump start for a short burst, but then everything went dead. The clock went dead, the engine didn't crank either. And i think i took the key out, and put it back in but still nothing. Then I disconnected the battery and connected it again and the clock, lights etc started working again and the car cranks.