Spec-944 '88 motor rebuild

[944sracer]

So I am about to begin my motor rebuilding process. I did use the search function and found hondadustrs thread which was very helpful. The car is a Spec-944 Racecar so no fun mods . It is an 1988 motor. My question is:

If I do the rebuild myself I.e. R&R motor, disassembly, reassembly, etc. but leave the actually machine work to the pros,
1. how do I know what size bearings, and piston rings to use?
2. Do they give me a spec?
3. For a first time builder is there a guide of sorts available? I know the basics but not the exact steps. Blame the anal retentive German in me
4. What is the cam lobe tolerance to check in case I need a new cam?
5. Anything special I should do while I'm in there for longevity? Oil pan baffle, turbo oil cooler with external cooler, etc?
6. Any brands I should avoid for parts (seals, rings, bearings, break in oil, assembly oil etc)?
7. Any brands you suggest?


Thanks for the help,

Blake

[Sterling Doc]

Blake, where are you from?

Welcome to 944 Spec!

There is a ton of great info, & build threads on 944spec.org to follow.

Typically, we cross drill the crank, put a trap door in the oil pan (Lindsey racing makes one, or you can fab one yourself.

There's a lot of good info, and specs at the Clark's garage web site, including service info. Porsche has specs for everything. The cams hardly ever wear, so if it looks in good shape, it likely is.

[Rasta Monsta]

If this is your first build, consider paying someone to do the valve job and assemble the short block for you, and putting the rest together yourself. Cost will be relatively low, and you'll gain knowledge of your new race motor while reducing risk.

[v2rocket_aka944]

if you do decide to get an external oil cooler i'd skip past the 951 lump and go for an S2/968 unit or aftermarket bigger cooler. go to a junkyard an get an RX7 cooler or the oil cooler off a merc 300td, they are huge.

[944sracer]

Thanks for the responses.

Sterling - I am from Utah. I have been racing spec for about 4 years now. I am the crazy one who wants us to allow header coatings. I am going to cross drill the crank for sure but I am still undecided on the baffle. I haven't had any issues in high speed/G turns. Are there any possible downsides to the baffle?

Rasta - the plan is to have the head shipped off and taken care off so no worries about the valves. By assemble the short block I assume you mean ship it off for machine work and then have some one assemble the rods, pistons, oil pan etc? Then I put on the head and install into the car?

V2 - I would use the turbo oil filter console because it has the screw in points for the oil lines. I have trust issues with the sandwich plates. As for the cooler itself it would be an Earl's or equivalent.

Parts - are there brands to avoid? Or brands that someone has tried and really liked?

Thanks

[commdiver]

First off sounds like your ready to take the pull the engine down plunge! Congrats its very rewarding when done right. So there will be so many opinions from here on out its best to think about your end goal when race season starts and its time to drive this engine on track????

Ok so write this down at the top of the list as a header!

Now knowing your in spec and your never going to get more than 145hp out of the rear wheels you just want to build a bullettproof trouble free track workhorse. An '88 motor is best and if it has decent compression , leakdown , and is not consuming qts. of oil an hr. No need for any block machining. Just remove head and cam tower send head to get freshened and decked. Get a 1983 only year 944 crank.was crossdrilled or get yours perp. drilled and polished assuming its in spec. Then clean all parts, decarbon pistons, check piston pin bushings, install new rings, throw together with fresh bearings and gaskets all the while taking close inventory of all assemblies. Wide fire ring headgasket, 951 oil coolers are bulletproof, add 1 extra qt. Of oil and you can get the complete used parts group for cheap. While your in there I would solder new fuel injector plug ends into your harness. Make sure and inject silicon around wires where they go into back side of plug under rubber boot like factory did.

I strongly suggest trap door and pickup ring as even when oil is topped off you can get frothing from crank which.mean bubbles on top which get sucked into pump easier without.
The glyco brand bearings and devek rings are great, as well as the victor reinz gasket sets. I've done a dozen it so motors with them in the last 5-6 years. I love Pelican parts for most rebuild items, however there are a few items that are cheaper from Sunset Porsche OEM stuff!
Good luck, Shawn