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Registered
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Il
Posts: 113
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Rod bearing WYIT
Getting ready to do rod bearings, street driven car, not raced. I figure bearings, oil pan seal, pickup tube seal and support bracket, and new rod nuts. Planning on resealing steering rack at the same time. Any pointers or other suggestions?
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Chicagoland
Posts: 2,695
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might as well do front and rear main seals. AOS seals and balance shaft seals if you haven't already.
where in IL are u? |
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Chicagoland
Posts: 2,695
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i hoped the engine was out already...but yea i guess u could do all the jobs he mentioned with just jackstands and engine support
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944 addict
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Are you pulling the motor or doing it with jack stands? A lot of what you can do is dependent on whether you've pulled the motor or not. If it's still in the car you can't get the rear main seal out without pulling the exhaust system, transaxle, bell housing and clutch/flywheel. I just finished doing it and It's very involved and not fun. Doing the other stuff, i.e., oil pan gasket is somewhat of an art. There's a lot to consider. I decided to replace every rubber seal in the engine and transmission and all the rubber stuff in the suspension as well. I'm open to chatting with you regarding your project if you want. Email mytrplseven@aol.com.
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3 944's, 2 Boxsters and one Caman S, and now one 951 turbo. Really miss the Cayman. Some people try to turn back their "odometers." Not me. I want people to know 'why' I look this way. I've traveled a long way and some of the roads weren't paved. |
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Registered
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Il
Posts: 113
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I am doing the bearings with the engine in the car, at least that's the current plan. Krystar, I am in Batavia.
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That Guy
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Reseal the lower balance shaft cover while its apart. Not much more work with the crossmember out and the power steering disconnected.
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Jon 1988 Granite Green 911 3.4L 2005 Arctic Silver 996 GT3 Past worth mentioning - 1987 924S, 1987 944, 1988 944T with 5.7L LS1 |
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Registered
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Il
Posts: 113
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Dang it! now you guys have me thinking about pulling the motor and doing a full re-seal. was planning on doing that next winter when the engine will be out for paint, but it would be nice to have it done. No real leaks though. I have everything to do the steering rack and replace the A/C compressor, and figured I would replace the bearings while I had that much apart. It has had oil cooler seal failure before I got the car, no idea if the bearing were replaced then, and it kind of worries me.
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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: San Diego
Posts: 216
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Unless you want to spend more time on your back than a lady of the evening, forget changing the bearings for now. I would rather pull the engine than try to change bearings under the car. If the rod bearings are bad then you have to drop the girdle and check the mains. Major PITA from under the car. As the other posts indicated, once you change the rod/main bearings you should change the front seal, rear seal and pan gasket.
Unless you are in a big rush to get the car back on the road, buy an oil analysis kit for $20 and send in a sample. If the report comes back with bearing material in the oil then change the bearings. If the car has been running fine for years since the oil cooler problem, it will probably continue to run fine.
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Jim Richmond 944 Spec race car, SoCal NASA & POC 01 Boxster S |
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