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Tcrate's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Michigan
Posts: 257
Oil Pan Gasket and engine mounts

Here we go. 19877 Turbo, 944. Well my oil plan gasket is leaking pretty bad. So I am going to do the following:

1. getting a Lyndsey racing baffle welded in with the extension on the pickup tube.

2. New gasket

3. I will also add the three piece cross member.

4. I know the #2 bearing fails prematurely but from what I have read these will typically go 160,000 miles before doing so. I only have 65,000 miles so I am going to leave the bearings alone. I should add I will be doing a few track days and running autocross but maybe 4-5 times a summer.

My first question is should I change engine mounts while I am there. No vibrations at this point. I will probably measure and inspect when I pull the crossmember. The issue I have here is do I really need to use Porsche OE mounts. Wow they are expensive. What experience do you have with the others being sold out there? I see there are mounts made by URO, Hamburg, Rein and possibly others. The cost difference is huge. the OE mounts are $215 a piece.........

What else should I do while I am in there?


Thanks.

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Tom
1987 911 Targa
1987 944 Turbo
1976 911S
1973 Mustang Mach 1 351C
Old 03-20-2012, 06:25 PM
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: Hawkinsville / Perry, Ga.
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If you are removing the oil pan go ahead and change the rod bearings and nuts while you are in there. The LR baffle is a good addition, but the oil p/u tube should be checked for cracks up near the block. The brace is worth the money. On the engine mounts either spring for the OEM as they have lasted this long (BEST) or the Rein. The others you will wast your money unless you want to change them out at least every year or sooner and they are a PITA to change. The 3 piece cross member is great for a track only car where you will be pulling the oil pan often. For your use, IMHO, the money could be better spent elsewhere, like the Porsche OE Engine Mounts. One of the most important items is to check the three rubber fuel lines that attach to the fuel rail for cracks and weeping at the connections. The SS covered fuel lines look good, but you can not check the rubber inner line for pin hole leaks until they really start leaking bad enough to cause an engine fire. The SS cover is only good to prevent chaffing and add bling. Whatever way you go I wish you luck and good wrenching.

Cheers,
Larry
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Old 03-20-2012, 07:28 PM
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When I did my oil pan gasket I used Hondabond in the corners of the gasket (just a light film) and let it set overnight before I torqued down the pan. Remember to wipe down the gasket with laquer thinner or acetone to get the mold release off of it so it doesn't creep. Use dental floss in the bolt holes to keep it oriented to the pan. I also did the rubber boots on the steering rack, ball joints and new tie rod ends (that included new boots). While the steering rack is dropped with the crossmember, it's a convenient time to redo the seals in the steering rack. Are you pulling the motor or doing it from below? If it's from below one thing that makes the torquing sequence easier is to take a majic marker and put the number of each bolt in the pattern on the bottom of the pan. It makes it much easier to keep track of which bolt you're torquing. Second, tape a copy of the torque pattern on the bottom of the pan so U can refer to it on the spot. Of course, a good chance to change the rod bearings, bolts and nuts. Mine had 120k miles on them and looked like new but WYIT, I changed them. A good opportunity to clean some of the road grime off harder places to get at. My RMS was leaking badly, too so that became another major project for later.
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3 944's, 2 Boxsters and one Caman S, and now one 951 turbo. Really miss the Cayman.

Some people try to turn back their "odometers." Not me. I want people to know 'why' I look this way. I've traveled a long way and some of the roads weren't paved.
Old 03-21-2012, 09:40 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: San Diego, CA
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Weld the baffle into the pan, but i wouldnt bother with the extension for the pickup tube.

Check the o-ring on the rear of the balance shaft cover. This is a very common leak point and with the crossmember off you are 95% of the way there to replacing it. It requires removing and resealing the balance shaft cover which is pretty easy.

As far as i could tell, the Rein automotive mounts are the same as the OE Porsche mounts with the part #'s / Porsche markings ground off..

Rein mount,



Porsche mount,





I dropped my pan along with alot of other stuff last winter, here is a little writeup thread i did..

http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/944-turbo-and-turbo-s-forum/632754-rod-bearing-and-lower-balance-shaft-reseal-pictorial.html
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1988 Granite Green 911 3.4L
2005 Arctic Silver 996 GT3
Past worth mentioning - 1987 924S, 1987 944, 1988 944T with 5.7L LS1

Last edited by Techno Duck; 03-21-2012 at 01:33 PM..
Old 03-21-2012, 01:30 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Michigan
Posts: 257
Thanks for the input guys.

So my decision is this. Replace the bearings, rebuild the steering rack and keep the one piece cross member.

Point to note, Rein does not make the 944 mounts anymore. I contacted them and they stated so. If you need mounts and can find those latch onto them. So my mounts measured right within spec. They look to be in decent shape. The rubber was showing some signs of cracking but minimal. I am sticking with what I have on the mounts.

I am really debating pulling the balance shafts and resealing these. there seems to be a small trace of oil but not sure it is from them. I guess the lower is easier to access now but I did not have to pull the intake as the PO put a two piece crossover pipe. That did definitely save me some time.

I am also putting the baffle and extension on the pickup.

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Tom
1987 911 Targa
1987 944 Turbo
1976 911S
1973 Mustang Mach 1 351C
Old 03-26-2012, 07:13 PM
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