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-   -   what seals or gaskets can I replace while replace timing (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-924-944-968-technical-forum/669545-what-seals-gaskets-can-i-replace-while-replace-timing.html)

konig10 04-03-2012 02:49 PM

what seals or gaskets can I replace while replace timing
 
getting ready to replace timing belts and water pump, I wanna know since I'm already down there what else can I replace like the front gaskets and seals? Thanks for any suggestions

kfanazini 04-03-2012 04:14 PM

You are going to need to remove the crank pully, and the balance shaft carriers to get to them all. Not to mention the pulling the cam gear. It is quite extensive, make sure you want to go down that road.


Quote:

Originally Posted by konig10 (Post 6665185)
getting ready to replace timing belts and water pump, I wanna know since I'm already down there what else can I replace like the front gaskets and seals? Thanks for any suggestions


John_AZ 04-03-2012 04:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by konig10 (Post 6665185)
getting ready to replace timing belts and water pump, I wanna know since I'm already down there what else can I replace like the front gaskets and seals? Thanks for any suggestions

FOES-Front Of Engine Seals.
Some vendors have kits available with and without the seal brass races.
If the brass race has a seal groove it will eat/ruin the new seal.
Shop.

Pelican Parts - Product Information: 10-0507-098-M260


Quote:

Originally Posted by kfanazini (Post 6665341)
You are going to need to remove the crank pully, and the balance shaft carriers to get to them all. Not to mention the pulling the cam gear. It is quite extensive, make sure you want to go down that road.

You should do the front crank seal, "O" ring AND the OIL PUMP SLEEVE. The oil pump sleeve usually WILL have the seal groove and has to be replaced.

Pelican Parts - Product Information: 944-107-161-02-M260

I do not suggest doing the front cam seal unless yours is leaking/dripping bad. It is not easy.
You should get a new updated front cam gear bolt.

DIY to replace the front cam gear seal...
Bennington Motorsports

DIY on FOES...
Front Engine Seals

Waterpump gasket seal--yes Permatex Hylomar.

GL and be careful with the WP bolts.

John

konig10 04-03-2012 08:05 PM

Great Links Thanks again John

John_AZ 04-04-2012 05:27 AM

More info on waterpump and thermostat.
(From a recent brain freeze moment-thanks to Rasta)

You have to measure the distance from the thermostat sealing surface to the "C" clip indent to get the correct thermostat and seal.

Thermostat - General Information, Testing, and Replacement

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1333545591.jpg

The steel supporting washer is used as well-your choice:

Pelican Parts - Product Information: 900-234-160-00-M100

The steel supporting washer was designed for the thicker thermostat outer sealing ring (sometimes both included with thermostat).

GL
John

Volhv 04-04-2012 07:44 AM

If the oil pump sleeve looks like this....
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1333554199.jpg
it's time to replace it.

It's amazing what rubber will do to steel in 25 years. That goes for the balance sleeves also.

mytrplseven 04-04-2012 03:28 PM

I recently finished a program to replace every rubber seal in my engine and transmission because when one leaks, it's just the start since they're all of the same age and they've all turned to plastic, rendering them ineffective as seals. I even did the throttle body shaft seals because they were leaking vacuum and came out in little pieces. The links supplied above by JohnAZ are good ones and where the oil pump sleeve is concerned, breaking the crank bolt loose required (for me anyway) a big breaker bar with a 5' (yes feet long) pipe for an extension just to break it loose. It requires 150 ft lbs of torque to reinstall it so it holds the oil pump sleeve tight enough to stay engaged. Almost herniated myself before I got the pipe out. Now the bad part. If, as I was assuming that all the seals were hard, and you see leaks from the back of the oil pan, It's likely that the RMS is hard and leaking and that means removing everything aft of the oil pan to replace it. It's an involved process that usually means replacing the clutch while you're in there, unless it's in really good shape. Hopefully, you aren't at that point, yet, where you're seeing a bunch of leaks then your idea of doing all the front seals while you're in there is a good one.

konig10 04-04-2012 06:29 PM

My 86 na has sat for about 7 years, amazingly it doesn't have one leak and it runs pretty well, I'm just assuming I should replace as many gaskets and seals as possible while I'm in that area replacing the timing, but as someone posted above if it doesn't leak don't mess with it, so I'm not sure, seven years is a long time

Gawernator 04-04-2012 09:40 PM

These jobs are kind of intimidating me

mytrplseven 04-06-2012 08:25 AM

Hey Konig, I used to live in Gig Harbor. I really miss it. I'm the guy who had the 38' Dark Green Morgan Sloop named Aileron. Could be your seals haven't started to leak (yet) is due to the cooler temps and moisture prevalent to your area vs mine that were in New Mexico where it was hot and dry. I still go by my axiom that when you see the first leak, the rest are to follow, so if you have the front opened up to do the belts and wp, it's a good time to do the front stuff.

mytrplseven 04-06-2012 08:28 AM

Don't be intimidated, Gawenator. They're involved due to a fairly long list of things but if you take one at a time and use the videos and manuals before you start (and be meticulous about clean) it'll bear fruit. It's real gratifying when you're done.


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