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944 clutch pedal stuck down

When ever I push the clutch pedal down it stays down. I can put my foot behind the pedal and pop it back up. Any ideas??
Old 06-04-2012, 04:58 PM
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Either air in the lines, or more severely, need to replace the clutch master AND slave cylinders. I'm assuming it's not the return spring, but start checking there. If that's good, try bleeding the system, I guess. Clutch and brakes use the same fluid reservoir.

All else fails, it's your cylinders.
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Old 06-04-2012, 05:28 PM
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bleed the clutch system.
Look for leaks out of the clutch slave cylinder (near starter) or from the clutch master cylinder.
If in any doubt, but both replacement units.
Also, purchase a Motive Powerbleeder, a great tool that makes your life easier.
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Old 06-04-2012, 05:29 PM
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This spring mine did this, I had a leak in the slave. Replaced it, did a bleed and I'm back in business.
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Old 06-05-2012, 03:03 AM
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Most likely your clutch master cylinder. Look under the dash where the rod comes through to the pedal. Check for any fluid leaking.
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Old 06-05-2012, 03:48 AM
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Any time when you are working on/bleeding the clutch system have the rear of the car higher than the front - The master reservoir serves both the brakes and clutch systems and the clutch part is in the front so if the clutch bleeding uses up fluid the front part of the clutch reservoir will gain air quickly - up in rear just makes the job easier.

Yes it sounds like the master clutch cyl. is leaking - most recommend that you replace both cyls. (Master and slave) while you are in there (WYAIT ).
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Last edited by Cocacolakidd; 06-05-2012 at 09:09 AM..
Old 06-05-2012, 09:05 AM
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+1 for having the rear higher than the front. Mine stuck in my driveway (car was pointed uphill), and I did all the work at the end of the driveway. It would have been much easier to bleed the clutch if it was the other way around...
Old 06-05-2012, 12:14 PM
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I had that for about a week, and only when the clutch was cold, after 15 minutes it would get better. This week everything is fine. What's that all about?
Old 06-05-2012, 12:19 PM
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I had the same problem when I bought my car... Eventually, the slave cylinder gave out. Fortunately (and unfortunately), it went out in my driveway. Went to drive the car to work one morning, stepped on the clutch, and it pulled itself to the floor and stuck.

I'd suggest you look into replacing your master and slave as well (probably the lines in between too).
Old 06-05-2012, 12:34 PM
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dang, its all only 2 years old too...
Old 06-05-2012, 12:47 PM
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You could try your luck at bleeding it first...
Old 06-05-2012, 01:00 PM
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Any news?

And from my experience, I'm in agreement with the others that air has entered your clutch system.

It pretty much only gets in there if fluid leaked out, and air replaced it, simply bleeding it will be a temporary fix, but it will simply leak out again. There are lots of suggestions here of what the leak may be, probably the easiest to check is the slave cylinder next to the starter, have someone move the clutch repeatedly, and if fluid is dripping out, that is your problem. Find your leak, fix it, bleed it, and you should be good.
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Old 06-07-2012, 05:24 PM
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Quote:
It pretty much only gets in there if fluid leaked out, and air replaced it, simply bleeding it will be a temporary fix, but it will simply leak out again.
Then how would one explain of the air and water in a sealed system - Not leaking, and no air entering from the outside.

The fluid used in the brake system, hydraulic brake fluid, is a Carbon Formula Fluid. We learned in Chem 101 that when you heat (Close to and even boiling) that when the chemical equation is balanced after the energy of heat is added to one side, the air and water is added to the other side of the equation to balance the whole. A proof of how the air and water enters the hydraulic system even though it's sealed. So even on perfect sealed systems it's best to change out the fluid every two years or so.

yeah I know, smart ass - just thought some would like to know.
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78-924 traded for 80-931 traded for 84-944 traded for 85.5-944 (7th one now).
UAV-M1 (Urban Assault Vehicle - Model 1)
Bless the lowered, and pass the nitromethane.
Pedal to the metal till you see the gates of hell then brake
NLA - No longer available is a four letter word
Old 06-07-2012, 05:46 PM
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I wasn't listening can you repeat that? HA! Good explanation! Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cocacolakidd View Post
Then how would one explain of the air and water in a sealed system - Not leaking, and no air entering from the outside.

The fluid used in the brake system, hydraulic brake fluid, is a Carbon Formula Fluid. We learned in Chem 101 that when you heat (Close to and even boiling) that when the chemical equation is balanced after the energy of heat is added to one side, the air and water is added to the other side of the equation to balance the whole. A proof of how the air and water enters the hydraulic system even though it's sealed. So even on perfect sealed systems it's best to change out the fluid every two years or so.

yeah I know, smart ass - just thought some would like to know.
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Old 06-08-2012, 03:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cocacolakidd View Post
So even on perfect sealed systems it's best to change out the fluid every two years or so.
Every two years is the recommended service interval on fluid changes. The air that enters the reservoir contains moisture, and brake fluid absorbs this moisture, thereby gradually lowering the boiling point of the brake fluid and reducing it's efficiency.

Actually, automotive braking systems are not truly "sealed" systems, they require atmospheric pressure to work properly. Those of us who have worked on "old" cars will remember the vent hole on the top of the reservoir cap, that was there to allow atmospheric pressure (air) into the system. That "open vent" of yesterday not only allowed atmospheric pressure (air) into the system, but also dirt, dust and any manner of contaminant.

Look closely at the picture, the pick is pointing at the small vent hole located on the shaft for the brake fluid level float, this vent hole is above the fluid level, under the rubber "dust cap" on the top of the reservoir cap there is also a small hole to allow in outside atmospheric pressure (air) into the system. The seal under the cap is there to keep fluid from escaping from around the cap.


So ends lesson #2 (Cocacolakidda gave lesson #1) of how air enters your braking system. Lesson #3 (if ever published) will explain how Pascal's Law applies to automotive braking systems......Sorry, I just couldn't resist.
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Old 06-08-2012, 07:35 AM
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the one item that seems to be ignored a lot is the high pressure hose. it starts failing from the inside out, and cannot be gauged from the outside. the hose is only supposed to last a max of 10 years. many of them are much older than that, so i'm not surprised they fail

on the 968 it is a well known failure item, and is often symptomized by a swelling at the joint. i have now sold about 200 stainless steel teflon lined hoses as a result of this problem.
Old 06-08-2012, 07:48 AM
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If your master has leaked into the passenger compartment, SCRUB SCRUB SCRUB or you will have a problem.
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Old 06-08-2012, 09:32 AM
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