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Up and down play in front wheels
Does this mean my front wheel bearings are bad? Looking at the PP catalog I see both inner and outer bearings, I assume it's a good idea to replace both? SmileWavy
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How did you check for play?
Just vertical play? Bad wheel bearings should have play in both axis. Could be the ball joints, control arms or the struts. http://www.clarks-garage.com/pdf-manual/susp-08.pdf http://www.clarks-garage.com/pdf-manual/susp-10.pdf |
The car was lifted, and shook the wheel firmly in different directions. I didn't actually do it, a mechanic friend did, so perhaps I should try it myself to double check. It could be struts? I know mine are tired but I have been waiting before dropping $400+ on Koni's.
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this is where you have to be very careful and actually see what is moving.
up and down play can be ball joints struts can disguise themselves as up and down play because strut bearings create in and out play at the top of the strut housing and can be felt by putting your finger on the shaft at the top of the housing and moving the wheel in and out at the top. this can be mistaken for up and down play. wheel bearings will create play in all directions, but are felt most easily by grabbing the tire at 12 and 6. this is because it eliminates the issues of steering rack and tie rods. this can be misleading too. upper strut mounts can create up and down play, but are very hard to diagnose because you have to lift the entire suspension to see it, and that's pretty heavy. get it back up in the air and do it all over again until you can actually see what is moving. |
Thanks for the advice. It was only a quick check earlier, now I am going to try again methodically until I find the moving part, as you said. If it is ball joints/ control arms, am I screwed?
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What everyone said but just like to add that our front wheel bearings do have some play if adjusted correctly. Everything tightens up when it gets warm, but a mech who doesn't understand this might say the bearings are shot.
Adjust your bearings to spec first, see what actually moves. Use a large flat blade screwdriver and try to lever any suspect joint to see if it moves. F&R control arm bushes and ball joint as well as top strut mount. If something is worn you will see it move. Everything is easily replacable, all control arm ball joints can be rebuilt, you are not screwed. |
Thanks for the tips. On my '83 I repacked the wheel bearings once with my dad but at that point he was doing more than me. Not sure how to adjust the bearings to proper specs. Would this be somewhere in the Hayne's manual or WSM? Does F&R mean front and rear?
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Yes, F&R = front & rear.
This is how i do frint wheel bearings on the 944: Tighten the spindle nut tight then slowly loosen until you can just move the washer under it. When trying to move the washer use a flat blade screwdriver against the edge of the washer, don't lever against the hub, simply press the screwdriver tip against the side of the washer until it just moves. Easier to do than describe, you'll see what I mean. |
Okay, thanks a lot.
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