clamping sleeve

[maso]

Has anyone successfully bolted up the manual transmission with the torque tube while the CV joints are attached to the trans and transaxle?
The 8mm tri-square/chessehead/double hex tool is expensive, call me cheap but can be done with extra jacks supporting the rear discs. Also, I don't like taking things off that really don't need to be taken off.

[bnv944]

its much easier to take the cv joins off, you can get the cheesehead tool at napa for 10 bucks and will save you a ton of time. also, if you mean torque tube and transaxle as one peice its impossible because you have to rotate the torque tube 180 degrees and pull it back about a foot. with the transaxle attached you dont have enough room to spit. if you do it the way you talking about without some pretty impressive equiptment you will surely break somthing incredible expensive.

[John_AZ]

Your first post.

944 engine removal- engine stuck on spline

If you do not want to buy an 8mm triple square/cheesehead/12point...for the CV joints, what do you plan to use for the FW flywheel bolts?

The 4 CV joints need to be repacked anyway.

John

[smokin_944]

+1 John. The CV joints are an easy service and you may as well do them while you're in there.

[Rasta Monsta]

Originally Posted by maso

The 8mm tri-square/chessehead/double hex tool is expensive

And another 2.5 heads off to the salvage yard.

[mikepellegrini]

I've had really bad luck with cheap triple-square tools. The ones I was getting (Lisle, and other brands) always seemed to be either not quite the right size, or if they were the right size, the tool was too soft - and either way, you end up messing up bolts that way.

I was paying maybe $12-15 for the cheap sets, and I've probably gone through 4-5 sets.

So the last time we needed triple squares, I decided to say WTF and bought a good set of SK bits - about $50. Which is precisely what I shoulda done in the first place.

Cheap tools just aren't worth the price - in terms of pain and misery - that they bring.

And yeah - If you're gonna work on 944's - or any car - you have to have the proper tools.

[fiat22turbo]

I use the cheap bits to get the bolts off, then replace the bolts with new allen head bolts. Problem solved.

Oh and for the new folks, first trying this, understand that these are put in at 30 ft-lbs with loctite. They will be hard to get off after years of being sprayed with god knows what and being heated and cooled repeatedly.

Go slowly. Make sure the bolt heads are cleaned out (use a dental pick or the like) and gently tap the bit into the head to ensure you have the entire tool working on the bolt head before you apply torque to it.

Apply some heat and some PB-Blaster (WD-40 won't help with rusty or stuck items, it only displaces water and doesn't penetrate rust)

When you apply torque to remove the bolts or install them, use both hands. One near the head, to stabilize the tool and the other to rotate the tool. The bit can't rock in the bolt head at all or you'll likely strip it.

[maso]

Many thanks for the reply guys, very appreciated.
John_AZ, "944 engine removal- engine stuck on spline” yes it was my previous post; I thought to start a new one.
As for Rasta Monsta post "And another 2.5 heads off to the salvage yard.” nah I have spent a fortune on this car and this car has something over me, maybe it's supernatural...
In the land of Down Under, we don’t have a Napa store but I have found a wondertool by Snap-on for fifty bananas. I agree with you guys, don’t use cheap tools because it causes more troubles. Honestly its not the adder cost, it's me being lazy and trying to skip a step.
BNV944 you say the best method is to rotate the torque tube 180 degrees, I thought this is for only for later models. Mine's an 83. Should I rotate the TT, is it required to get more clearance? Also, I have already attached the gear linkage from the trans to the torque tube.
Has anyone connected the trans, torque tube and gear selector away from the car and then manoeuvrer it back under the car?

[Rasta Monsta]

Down under! I know it is a monster effort to dabble in these beasts down there.

Respect.

[bnv944]

Originally Posted by maso

Many thanks for the reply guys, very appreciated.
John_AZ, "944 engine removal- engine stuck on spline” yes it was my previous post; I thought to start a new one.
As for Rasta Monsta post "And another 2.5 heads off to the salvage yard.” nah I have spent a fortune on this car and this car has something over me, maybe it's supernatural...
In the land of Down Under, we don’t have a Napa store but I have found a wondertool by Snap-on for fifty bananas. I agree with you guys, don’t use cheap tools because it causes more troubles. Honestly its not the adder cost, it's me being lazy and trying to skip a step.
BNV944 you say the best method is to rotate the torque tube 180 degrees, I thought this is for only for later models. Mine's an 83. Should I rotate the TT, is it required to get more clearance? Also, I have already attached the gear linkage from the trans to the torque tube.
Has anyone connected the trans, torque tube and gear selector away from the car and then manoeuvrer it back under the car?

i dont thinks theres a difference, does your car have the trangular tabs on the TT? this is from clarks garage, it says for 944 and 944 turbo so i dont beleive there a difference

"23. Slide the torque tube towards the rear of the car. It will be necessary to rotate the torque tube 180° to allow the triangular tabs on the torque tube to clear the torsion bar tube. "

[maso]

yes my torque tube has dog ears.
"23. Slide the torque tube towards the rear of the car. It will be necessary to rotate the torque tube 180° to allow the triangular tabs on the torque tube to clear the torsion bar tube. "
I believe I am not required to rotate the torque tube because I have dropped the torque tube crossmember (4xM17 bolts) and the torsion bar.
As per a previous persons post, I have mm gap between the coupler and the trans input shaft too. How much gap do you guys have? The trans is bolted into place and the TT is far right as possible against the body. The coupler is far back as possible. I may need to investigate if the trans input shaft has been extruded out.
I am still tempted to assemble the trans and torque tube at the side of the car and slide it into place.

[maso]

yes we have success. Three attempts plus many many weeks later I have finally got the coupler over both shafts. I still have at lot to do but the coupler is on and both flanges are bolted together.
I have gone about it differently to the Clarke's Garage Manual. I dropped everything to the ground. I chalked up the gearbox and torque tube splines so they were parallel to the ground. Getting brave (some would say stupid) I crawled under the car and physically grab the coupler through the inspection hole and move it onto the spline. I then grab a long screwdriver, I located it in the groove of the coupler and belted it a hammer. With lots of grease and penetrating oil it gradually moved along. Carefully, I then slid back underneath the car to safety. My wife is a ICU nurse, so I got plenty of grief from her on when she found out on how I mated the shafts up. I had plenty of jacks and stands under the car. She has looked after people where jacks have given way or the person has accidentally kicked the jack stand away. Good news for me I did not have to break the CV joints. My previous attempts was haltered with a damaged coupling. I had a spare one and opened it up and clean the internal thread.
I have also wire brushed, used wax&grease removal and sprayed the underneath with body deadener all underneath of the car. She looks like a million dollars under their but pity know one will see it.
Many thanks for everyones advise and encouragement.
The gearbox, trans axle and torque tube are still on the ground but it should not take much to jack everything back up to the body. Then it's to get the engine in, bleed brakes/cooling system, etc

[maso]

Yeah my beloved beauty has breathed again !!!!
Yes, running on three cylinders and a major coolant leak but she has started.
A quick flashback, the clutch thrust bearing had failed. In removal of the engine the torque tube was extracted fro the torque tube via the bell housing, The remedy was to remove the torque tube then the rear suspension and then gearbox/diff. Aligning the torque tube shaft to the gearbox was very challenging because I have no access to a hydraulic lift. Using four jacks and six stand made it possible.
As for RATSAMASTA, you are a tool...Your word words of " another one to the scrap yard" was one of the hurtful things I have ever received. You don't know my experience, education, dedication and my love car.
A big thank to fellow posties, my Dad, Clarke's garage manual, Haynes (yes there is is good stuff in there if you look), so I could achieve each heartache task.
By the way I had issues with initial start up but with many searches on this forum I found a wealth of information. Those speed and reference sensors are a pain. Many thanks to john_AZ you are one cluey bloke.

[maso]

sorry to ask questions, this is a forum and that want it's for to get other peoples thoughts and advise.
Apologies for not being as good as you.
Many thanks to the other people who gave there input.

[Rasta Monsta]

I take it you decided to skip the simple CV service that was recommended by others? Because you didn't feel like it?

Like I said. . .

[kfanazini]

Is this the set you speak of?

http://www.skhandtool.com/bit-sockets/19704.aspx

Originally Posted by mikepellegrini

I've had really bad luck with cheap triple-square tools. The ones I was getting (Lisle, and other brands) always seemed to be either not quite the right size, or if they were the right size, the tool was too soft - and either way, you end up messing up bolts that way.

I was paying maybe $12-15 for the cheap sets, and I've probably gone through 4-5 sets.

So the last time we needed triple squares, I decided to say WTF and bought a good set of SK bits - about $50. Which is precisely what I shoulda done in the first place.

Cheap tools just aren't worth the price - in terms of pain and misery - that they bring.

And yeah - If you're gonna work on 944's - or any car - you have to have the proper tools.

[maso]

no I took peoples advise and bought a snap on tri-square. Cost was $45 delivered.

[maso]

Hey Rasta Masta, sorry man I owe you apology. You are right, another one going to the scrap yard. After a year and half, spending four hours every Saturday on my car it's now together and is finally running nice and smooth. The issue is that I cannot select gears while the engine is running. I changed everything on the way including overflow bottle, overhauled steering rack, all suspension bushings, tie rods, shocks, brake pads, clutch slave and master cylinders, filters, oil, belts, torque tube,thermostat, hoses, carpet, rebuilt injectors, torque tube, helicoil in the top engine mounting flange, etc
I HAVE HAD ENOUGH . I never give up on anything but the car has finally beaten me
The fork is engaging 18mm therefore within specification. I need to bleed my clutch again to get all of the air out and check my distance on the clutch master cylinder but my symptoms are clearly a sticking clutch plates. The solution is to pull the engine out. I have no time to do this again. Other forum threads state they had a sticky clutch but somehow it released itself. I know I wont be that lucky.
I have been through a lot by removing the entire drive train and then putting it back.
Anyhow, sorry RM and I hope no hard hard feelings. I have looked through previous posts of yours and you are always on right path.

[Rasta Monsta]

Whoah, buddy. Easy to unstick.

Fire the car in first gear, depress the clutch and go on and off the throttle until it breaks loose.

[mikepellegrini]

Originally Posted by kfanazini

Is this the set you speak of?

http://www.skhandtool.com/bit-sockets/19704.aspx

That is the set I got. I really like SK tools. Well worth the price.