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How old are your sensors? Since they so commonly cause problems I would think it'd be a good idea to eliminate that as a cause.

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Old 02-06-2013, 07:29 AM
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Clark's garage has a test procedure for the throttle position switch. You said it is adjusted properly (clicks when the throttle is closed) but is it working?
Old 02-06-2013, 08:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Jferr006 View Post
How old are your sensors? Since they so commonly cause problems I would think it'd be a good idea to eliminate that as a cause.
I'm unsure of their age. I have them removed right now for cleaning. I found that the speed sensor had some black gunk built up on the end. Maybe that was causing it to not send a proper signal to the DME, so it shuts it down?

The thing that's puzzling me is the engine will run with the DME coolant temperature sensor unplugged.The sensor tested fine, but for some reason it just won't run with it in place. Later today I plan to start the car, warm it up, then plug the sensor back in and see if that makes a difference.
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Originally Posted by jwade944 View Post
Clark's garage has a test procedure for the throttle position switch. You said it is adjusted properly (clicks when the throttle is closed) but is it working?
It's brand new, but I'll test it anyways.
Old 02-06-2013, 08:41 AM
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I would get another temp sensor then.
Old 02-06-2013, 08:46 AM
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My solution to the problem of wanting to set mine on fire has been to yank the whole damn power plant out completely rational right? if there's anything I can pull off that might help you out let me know!
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Old 02-06-2013, 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Gawernator View Post
I would get another temp sensor then.
The temperature sensor tested fine when I checked it at the DME connector/the sensor itself, so I don't think it's causing my problem.
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Originally Posted by Jferr006 View Post
My solution to the problem of wanting to set mine on fire has been to yank the whole damn power plant out completely rational right? if there's anything I can pull off that might help you out let me know!
I'd rather not pull the engine for this because I don't have the tools to do it. I'm a little short on cash at the moment, so I can't afford the equipment required. I've never pulled an engine before, so it would probably take me forever and I need a working car ASAP.
Old 02-06-2013, 08:55 AM
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Gaw, the bleed screw is a special bolt, it has a hole drilled thru to allow the air to escape without completely removing it.
Up to you, but you may want to order the correct one. I do realise this is your only car.
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Old 02-06-2013, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Chunkerz View Post
The temperature sensor tested fine when I checked it at the DME connector/the sensor itself, so I don't think it's causing my problem.


I'd rather not pull the engine for this because I don't have the tools to do it. I'm a little short on cash at the moment, so I can't afford the equipment required. I've never pulled an engine before, so it would probably take me forever and I need a working car ASAP.
I meant my own engine got yanked.... permanently ...so if you need anything off it let me know.
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Last edited by Jferr006; 02-06-2013 at 09:06 AM..
Old 02-06-2013, 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by jwade944 View Post
Clark's garage has a test procedure for the throttle position switch. You said it is adjusted properly (clicks when the throttle is closed) but is it working?
I tested it and it shows 0 ohms closed, and infinite ohms when opened all of the way. I readjusted it just for the hell of it. I'll check the wiring for the TPS under the boot after I put my speed/reference sensors back in.
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I meant my own engine got yanked.... permanently ...so if you need anything off it let me know.
Will do!
Old 02-06-2013, 10:01 AM
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Lets have a bonfire and burn our cars!
Won't be part of it,until now all mine need is gas in it (well not exactly need to refresh the alternator later next month) but nothing that keep her from running.Lol just crossing my fingers here & touching wood that my luck don't run out .GL trying to solve your issues sometime problems like yours are SOB to put your fingers on & very frustating.
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Old 02-06-2013, 10:56 AM
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Gaw, the bleed screw is a special bolt, it has a hole drilled thru to allow the air to escape without completely removing it.

Up to you, but you may want to order the correct one. I do realise this is your only car.
I found the part number and am placing an order today! Let it be known that Home Depot's M8x1.0x25 MM bolt actually threaded all the way in fine. Luckily I actually bled once before it broke so all I needed was a bolt to keep everything in. Also, 2nd car near future
Old 02-06-2013, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by ernie9944 View Post
Won't be part of it,until now all mine need is gas in it (well not exactly need to refresh the alternator later next month) but nothing that keep her from running.Lol just crossing my fingers here & touching wood that my luck don't run out .GL trying to solve your issues sometime problems like yours are SOB to put your fingers on & very frustating.
This thing is more than a SOB. It's the biggest mistake I've ever made in my life

I just discovered that my #2 spark plug hole is stripped. I'll have to pull the head and helicoil it. I hate this ****ing car beyond belief!!!! There's always one thing after another
Old 02-06-2013, 12:40 PM
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You can always part it out or sell it
Old 02-06-2013, 01:40 PM
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I really don't want to part it out because I don't have the time to do it. If I sold it I'd get like $500 for it, so I'd be out like 4 grand. Having a working 944 would be a dream come true. In the month or so that I was actually able to drive it, it was fantastic and I'd like to experience that again.

If I find scored cylinder walls, then I'm not going to bother fixing the engine. I'll swap in a v8 or something
Old 02-06-2013, 02:04 PM
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You'd be happier with a 968 swap
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Old 02-06-2013, 02:21 PM
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Probably, but 968 engines are kind of rare/expensive. I have my fingers crossed that I wont find any scored cylinder walls.

I removed my timing belt cover and the interior is coated in oil, so this gives me a good excuse to do the front engine seals/timing belt. Maybe I'll paint my cam tower while it's out too. I'd better start saving my pennies....
Old 02-06-2013, 04:39 PM
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Did you have a spare DME (brain) to try? haven't read this thread. Just some random posts.
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Old 02-07-2013, 12:23 PM
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Maybe I'm missing something, but why would you have scored walls? I've scored the walls on two different engines so I know how you feel. You replaced the sensor, but how is the wiring leading to it? Any damage to the wiring harness?
Old 02-07-2013, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Gawernator View Post
I found the part number and am placing an order today! Let it be known that Home Depot's M8x1.0x25 MM bolt actually threaded all the way in fine. Luckily I actually bled once before it broke so all I needed was a bolt to keep everything in. Also, 2nd car near future
Whats the part number for the bolt, I snapped mine on the final fill after flushing it 3 times, I was not to happy. I also replaced it with a bolt.
Old 02-07-2013, 04:30 PM
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Did you have a spare DME (brain) to try? haven't read this thread. Just some random posts.
Nope. While my car is in pieces I'm going to send the DME out to be tested.
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Maybe I'm missing something, but why would you have scored walls? I've scored the walls on two different engines so I know how you feel. You replaced the sensor, but how is the wiring leading to it? Any damage to the wiring harness?
I'm not saying I have scored walls. I was saying that I'll be pretty unhappy if I do. I should have the head off by tonight or maybe tomorrow, so I have my fingers crossed that they're okay.

The wires behind the boot are fine. I'm not sure how they look inside the harness. The harness itself looks fine. It's still nice and flexible with no dry rotting or cracks.

Old 02-07-2013, 05:32 PM
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