Bad Ignition lock, start button install?
 

Hi again everyone, I'm having a bit of a problem with getting my car to start (as some of you might have read in my last thread)

The problem is that when I turn the ignition key the starter wont crank the engine.

If I disconnect the connector in front of the fuse box in the hood I can put power directly to the red/black cable to get the car to start, if I then turn the key of it shuts of the car (but the first tI'me i started this way the car wouldn't shut down).

I think it might be the ignition lock thats is busted, its kind of moves around if you move the key around (don't know if thats normal?)

So I will be ordering a new ignition lock, or actually only the electric part of the ignition but I have to go get the car tested this week and I was thinking of putting in a button so I can get it trough the test.

If I hook up a wire to the connector in front of the fuse box and connect it straight to the start button and then splice a wire from the big red wire (30) and to the button, would that make it good to go?

Or am I missing something? Fuses and relay that I'm bypassing maybe?

Thanks everyone,


oh and its a 944 S2 -89

I doubt if any Inspection Station would pass a setup as you describe. Sounds kind of like a jury rig type job.

Cheers
Larry

Oh they wont mind, turn key, push button and go. They wont go into any details of how it is wired.

But I would like it to be "correct", so if the way I am thinking is wrong, how do you do it correct?

I thought the black/red wire that goes from the ignition nr 50 goes to the connector in front of the fuse box and then straight to the starter solenoid, is it not so?

Why not just get a good used igniton swtch with key?

Spare parts are not in big supply in my area. I have sent for a new ignition lock but it won't arrive before next week and I have inspection tomorrow.


I only need to know if there is anything between the ignition lock down tothe starter selonoid , like fuses or relay or anything else. If it's not then I can't see why I couldn't do as I say.

I did run a push button starter in my 260z once a long time ago and it did work with the key on. I was able to push the button and the car did start. I ran a fused wire direct from the battery to the push button switch and then out to the selonoid wire if I remember correctly.

Yeah that's what I want to do. I know it will work I just need to know if there is anything that I am bypassing like fuses or relays. I looked at the wiring diagram and I can't see anything but since I'm a newbie with those diagrams I'm really not sure how to read them.

just unplug the wire to the selonoid and tape it up so there is no chance of 12volts grounding out and run a correct gauge wire with a fuse to the push button switch from the + side of the battery terminal and then to the selonoid and see what it does. If you are pressed for time this is what I would do.

Why wouldn't you wire the push button to the back of the ignition switch? You know an electrical portion of the switch is bad, just bypass it.

Who knows what is bad and I would just take the whole thing out of the equasion.

Found the problem, the wires under the fusebox had come lose a little bit, so pushing them in helped and now the car starts.


BUUUUUT, now it wont turn off >_<


I opened the DME relay when starting the car and i noticed that the lowest of the two switches didnt let go when turning of the key, i poked it with a screwdriver and it let go and the car died.

So I have to try and find a DME relay tomorrow morning before the test.

Are there any other cars that have a similar relay that will work?

I heard that old OPEL around .-80 have the same relay, but I cant seem to find those either anywhere around my place.

And everything is now good. I disconnected the jumper on the alarm and the car wouldnt start as expected, then connected it again, fired up and shut down as it should.

Went to the test and it went straight trough with flying colours!

Im so happy thank you everyone for your info and help