Make my 944 road-trip-able

bp944 · 05-17-2013, 07:27 AM

I have had my 944 for 3 years and its been a consistent problem but I currently need it to make a 300 mile to my parents and then back again. I will have AAA but I do not want to have to use it. It currently is my only vehicle since my daily driver died and I will not be getting a new one for a few months.

The car:
It has 160k miles and it hadn't ran in quite awhile when i bought it due to a blown head gasket. All that is fixed and the engine seems to run decently now. It sounds worn and past its prime but it seems to run fine.

I have replaced the gasket due to a blown head gasket and a lot of the seals when I put it back together. I will fix the gauges in the dash. I will or have replaced all wheels, wheel bearings, brake pads, brake rotors, braided lines, and calipers. I will be changing just the timing belt. Is there anything else that I should look into replacing or working on?

mueller944s2 · mueller944s2's Garage

All belts and rollers.

John_AZ · 05-17-2013, 08:20 AM

If you give me more information, I will advise.

Age of battery?
Coolant temp when at normal operating temperature?
Does engine "use" oil?
Oil pressure at normal operating temp?
Alternator charging voltage at 1250rpm?
Have you checked your fuel lines for cracks? Especially the fuel line jumper on the fuel rail. If you see any moisture near the fittings or any cracks in the bend---replace!

If all of the above is "normal"...
and you have the spare DME fuel pump relay and the 3 wire jumper in the car
You should be OK for a 600 mile round trip in MN.

Due to the age of the electronics, I carry a spare DME computer---never needed yet, but the DME relay has been needed more than once.

It sounds like you are checking everything.

GL
J_AZ

bp944 · 08:46 AM

The battery is brand new and it seems to hold a charge quick well. The car actually started in 10 degrees Fahrenheit this winter. It took a few cranks but I'm pretty sure the whole electrical system is working pretty well.

It never seems to run hot but I'm not so certain about the dash panel reading accurately. The RPM guage doesn't work so I need to clean all the grounds behind the dash.

I'm not sure about any of the fittings but when i replaced the gasket I did not see any cracked fuel lines.

I want to change the timing belt because I don't want the engine to detonate. I am hesitant to change all the rollers and belts. I am still hoping to switch over to a ls1 v8 soon and I'd rather not put $250 into an engine that can't sell for more than $200.

I will be taking the car out as often as possible before I take the long trip just to make sure everything is up to par.

John_AZ · 05-17-2013, 10:05 AM

When you change the cam belt, grab each roller and pull-tug-wiggle and spin.
Any significant movement above what you think is "normal" is not good.
Porsche WSM says a slightly "loose" spin feel the the cam tension roller is OK-normal

Make sure you grab the WP pulley with the cam belt off.
Now pull-tug-wiggle ---any movement---change the WP

J_AZ

bp944 · 05-17-2013, 11:03 AM

When I pulled the belts off to do the gasket I did check and there wasn't any significant movement.

Cannonball996 · 05-17-2013, 11:32 AM

if you are doing the belt, might as well change the rollers and water pump. bring an extra DME relay. steering bushing if you have not changed them, makes the long ride better, also new shocks