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broken exhaust manifold bolt

i'm replacing my header studs after one broke off. i read Clarks walk through and a few vids on youtube for broken stud removal. i think I have the jist but if there are any other tricks or things to watch out for, the info would be greatly appreciated. also, these are the original studs on the car. thanks in advance.

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Old 06-08-2013, 01:43 PM
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Anyone know to attack this broken stud? Clearly I'm going to need a bolt extractor, but the angle is so severe and no room to move. Removing the engine is not even a remote possibility. Any ideas?

The pic is from above and with a round mirror.
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Old 06-08-2013, 10:45 PM
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If you remove the cooling pipe can you fit in an angle drill? You would have to center punch or use a dremel with a pointed rasp at the sheared off bolt directly in the center before you start drilling. If an angle drill won't work you will probably have to pull the head.
Old 06-09-2013, 04:48 AM
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Pull the head now, or probably pull the head later to send it to the shop. How much of a gambler are you?

Based on the contortions you will have to go through to complete this job in the car, you have a higher than average chance of screwing it up. It is easy enough to screw up an easy-out job when you have good access, let alone when trying to use a 90 degree drill with no space to move, or see what you are doing.

The last thing you want to have to do is look for a new head because you screw up a job like this.
Old 06-09-2013, 05:21 AM
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I'd remove some of the pieces around it and see if you can get someone to weld a head on it or a lump you could grip with a vice grip. I don't think there's anyway you can drill that out with out wrecking something
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Old 06-09-2013, 05:37 AM
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Pull the head or motor. If it were me - I'd pull the motor.
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Old 06-09-2013, 10:59 AM
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well I have managed to remove the headers and exhaust to the muffler to be welded for a crack in the Y pipe. I am going to see how it goes. I am definately going to go super slow and stop at any sign of error. as for removing the engine, i'm in the process of packing up to move anout 3 hours further south so I can become a beach bum, so no engine removal at this time.
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Old 06-09-2013, 03:38 PM
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well all it took was $20 worth of crappy Harbor Freight and a Dewalt drill.

The cheap drill bit broke instantly, so I used a 3/32 dewalt drill bit then followed with the extractor
(Remembering to measure drill depth with other studs corrosion line and marking bit with a sharpie.)

I did apply some PB Blaster the night before which doesnt seem to a necessary step but didnt hurt either.

Drilling slow and checking angle and depth several times bc drilling in the block doesnt appeal to me whats so ever.

also re attatching the water line actually was a key step for the straight drilling as it acted as a anchor point for me to hold the drill steady and made a lot nicer pilot hole.



any ways, no big deal after all.

$20 for a cheap extractor and an right angle attatchment were worth their weight in gold today.

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Old 06-09-2013, 04:44 PM
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Your welcome.
Old 06-09-2013, 05:02 PM
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Old 06-09-2013, 05:57 PM
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wow! that isn't cracked, it broken.... IMO.

strong work getting the stud out.

in the future, and for anyone that might read this thread, "waking" the studs by tapping on them gently with a ball peen hammer MIGHT prevent this kind of issue.
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Old 06-09-2013, 06:18 PM
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The "broken" pipe has been like that for about a week prior to the manifold bolt breaking. I noticed it when I heard back firing/popping when down shifting and inspected the exhaust. At that time no studs were broken. I heard the stud break and hit the underside of the car while driving. Then it got louder and then I noticed the stud was broken. The underside of the pipe is still solid. The crack wraps aroud 1/2 the pipe.

next step is to figure out where all the vibration is coming from that causes all my exhaust issues. Motor mounts are next on the list, then suspension.
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Last edited by Ederd; 06-09-2013 at 07:01 PM..
Old 06-09-2013, 06:54 PM
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Great job! Glad to see that you got it done without having to "tear into it."
Old 06-10-2013, 02:37 PM
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I am betting that was welded before. Looks like it cracked where the metal was heated and probably cooled to quickly.
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Old 06-10-2013, 03:06 PM
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Another thing that may be of note. When I put the extractor bit in the drill, I made sure not to over tighten the bit. Having the bit not overtightened in the chuck, but where it could slip a little and not break the extractor. It still applied sufficient torque to free the bolt and not break any tools.

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Old 06-12-2013, 08:10 AM
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