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Torque tube?

Anybody know how to slide the torque tube back? I've already dropped the transmission and unbolted the tube from the bell housing. I tried lifting up on the rear to clear those anti-crash tabs, but I can't get the thing to slide backwards! Any ideas? I'm changing the clutch
Old 06-09-2013, 05:23 PM
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It needs to be spun 90 degrees. I don't remember which way, but it should be obvious.
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Old 06-09-2013, 09:19 PM
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Did you remember to unbolt the gear lever from the torque tube?
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Old 06-10-2013, 07:18 AM
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Quote:
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Did you remember to unbolt the gear lever from the torque tube?
It's bolted to the torque tube?? Where?
Old 06-10-2013, 08:01 AM
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You're supposed to disconnect the shifter (in the console) from the shifting rod that goes to the transmission. After it's disconnected, slide the shifting rod forward about a foot and rotate it about 90 degrees as you move it forward. Also, make sure the torque tube hangers (two) are removed (remember where they are and how they're oriented to the car) and then slide the torque tube aft and rotate it so the crash tabs clear the cross-member. I'd recommend supporting the engine block so it doesn't rotate downward and damage the pilot bearing.
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Old 06-10-2013, 03:46 PM
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Quote:
You're supposed to disconnect the shifter (in the console) from the shifting rod that goes to the transmission. After it's disconnected, slide the shifting rod forward about a foot and rotate it about 90 degrees as you move it forward. Also, make sure the torque tube hangers (two) are removed (remember where they are and how they're oriented to the car) and then slide the torque tube aft and rotate it so the crash tabs clear the cross-member. I'd recommend supporting the engine block so it doesn't rotate downward and damage the pilot bearing.
Oh yea I did that, although I slid the lever back as far as I could and its still a little bit in that torque tube hole. I rotated the shift lever within the car (not pulling it out) and pushed forward into the foam. The back of the car is jacked up really high so I don't think I can get a jack under the engine. I haven't removed the hangers. But even with the hangers on, I would think it could still move a little. I can rotate it somewhat but it won't pull
Old 06-10-2013, 04:20 PM
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The shift lever is bolted to the torque tube with two bolts (13mm, if my memory is good). You'll have to dig down through the foam insulator to see them, one is in front of the shift lever and one is behind it.
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Old 06-10-2013, 05:15 PM
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Quote:
The shift lever is bolted to the torque tube with two bolts (13mm, if my memory is good). You'll have to dig down through the foam insulator to see them, one is in front of the shift lever and one is behind it.
To the tube itself? I can move the shift lever around with the tube remaining rock steady.

This car is now retired as my daily driver. I've had enough of it's constant problems, I mean 3 engines in 4 years. This is ridiculous, it's now my weekend toy, and hopefully it'll run one weekend a month if I'm lucky!
Old 06-10-2013, 07:25 PM
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Wait... I didn't think the lever was bolted onto the torque tube
Old 06-10-2013, 08:21 PM
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Ok, the shift lever is bolted to the car, not the torque tube. The shift rod should be moved forward and I DO recommend removing the torque tube hangers and then you should be able to twist and pull the torque tube back. If it's not moving at all, it may be binding on the pilot bearing which would indicate an alignment bind between the bearing and the torque splined shaft. That's why I recommend trying to take the load off the engine by putting a floor jack under the engine (block of wood to prevent damage to the aluminum engine parts) and move it a little on the back and try to remove the TT. If that doesn't work, put the jack under the front and repeat. I had a similar issue when trying to get the last 1/2 inch of torque tube installed after a cluch replacement. I had to jack the front of the engine a hair to get the shaft into the pilot bearing.
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Old 06-11-2013, 04:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gawernator View Post
Wait... I didn't think the lever was bolted onto the torque tube
Well, I've only done torque tube removals on two 944's, one was a 1985.5 and the other is my 87 944S. Both cars had the gearshift lever sitting in a nylon bushing installed in a metal plate that bolted to the torque tube with two bolts. Both jobs were done last fall, and I remember being a bit surprised on the first one since it doesn't seem to be mentioned in most instructions. I don't think I've gone completely insane....................

(Edit)--the 944 shop manual, on page 30-6, clutch removal, mentions removing the gear shift lever and shows a picture looking down at the lever mount. Page 30-12 has another picture and shows how to reinstall the lever to get the proper vertical angle when it's in neutral. I knew I wasn't crazy!
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Last edited by Rod Schneider; 06-11-2013 at 05:37 PM..
Old 06-11-2013, 05:27 PM
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Here's a pretty good picture of the setup.
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Old 06-11-2013, 05:44 PM
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The shifter is bolted to the torque tube, remove it. You should remove the exhaust hangers and shifter rod. You might be able to rotate the torque 90 degrees but 180 degrees works better. This puts the crash tabs on the top. If you have someone to help you, it slides right back. Just remember to install the shifter rod before the transaxle during installation.
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Old 06-11-2013, 10:16 PM
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Looks like clark's missed that one! I guess I get to those bolts from the inside of the car?
Old 06-12-2013, 06:28 AM
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Well, I stand corrected. When I did my clutch, I just removed the entire shift lever and it's mount (two bolts) and moved on. I had NO idea that it was, in fact, bolted to the torque tube. I learn something every day. That diagram says it all.

Another note: I was out playing with my new short-shifter from online944.com and it feels crisp and like a new transmission. I love this thing.
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Old 06-12-2013, 09:54 AM
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whoops, that was on Clark's. I was getting the shift lever and shift rod confused.
Old 06-12-2013, 10:37 AM
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