actually, the late DME is expecting up to 5V, wide open. i think the whole setup would work, if you had a late DME. the early DME is expecting a lot more voltage. up to 9.6 volts, if my math is correct. yeah, you need a late DME.

or just an EMS, the late DME would throw a huge wrench in the system and I'd need to change a ton of stuff, an EMS would allow me to strip everything off and start from scratch. in the long run costing about the same.

nah. you could put a late DME right in there. i've done it. the only thing you have to change with a late DME is the AFM, again due to voltage, but you have already bypassed that issue.

hmmmmmmm well.... **** then. So I have a 85/2 with an auto as a 'parts car' this might just work... so I'd use the map for the late 85/2? what computer do I use? there are two... if memory serves

which computer in the 85/2? there is only one, IIRC. and i think you use the same map you are already using. let me look at lindsey's web page again.

yeah, same software map.

I'm like 99% positive that there is a different map. Cuz I had a HELL of a time getting the right one for the 84 na...

in fact, looking at the diagram you posted in #3, that is pretty close to what the late DME is expecting: 5v to the AFM and up to 4.5v back, +-.5v. i do think that the map would need some tweaking, as i think the voltage line should be more linear from bottom left to top right... but you'd have to see what is going on with the car running, i think, along with your wideband O2 setup.

well ****! So can I just plug the new DME into the old DME harness?

i am looking at lindseys page: file #4, S2. honestly, i don't think that setup is meant to be used with the early DME setup, as the voltages it is wanting are not correct. they can't have a proper map for it, as the equipment is not capable of putting out the correct voltage. however, it is capable of putting out the correct voltage for the later DME.

not saying that lindsey doesn't know his stuff... but the early 944 is an odd duck.

um... yeah. :)

yeah the older cars are weird, and thats awesome! dave does know his ****! but sometimes some idiot like me catches him off guard..

okay, i gotta go to bed. have fun. post a new video, if you get a chance. that would be cool.

I'll do my best! I don't have a ton of free time, gotta get ready for school... but I want her running for the fall

any progress?

not yet, been working on a buddy's aquarium all day. HOWEVER I don't think taking out three screws and swapping DME's will take more than twenty minutes

Oh and in case anyone else is reading this IT IS S1 FOR THE DATA FILE!!!! S2 is a 19lbs boosted car (as far as I can tell) just thought I'd get that out in the open.
I ran the car with the 'new' DME and it ran much much better! I'll have a video up as soon as my crappy internet will let me! :)

THANK YOU SO MUCH!!

Alright!! here it is

20130804 213538 - YouTube

So its shuddering and coughing when I 'punch it' and I think it might be running a little rich (12's) I need to get it out of the shop and run it for a bit, might wait for the weekend so I can annoy the campers... revving to 6-7k will make them real happy at 4 am :) haha

this is my take: running it in neutral is not the same as under load (obviously). if you have the ability to plug the tuning software into the car and tune it real time with a buddy driving and or making small adjustments, you'd probably be in good shape.

i really do think that the curve needs to be adjusted so that line pretty much starts at the bottom left corner and runs to the top right corner. that said, it was a heck of a lot better and actually ran.

also, i think you are correct about the 19#. initially i thought that was injector size (lbs of fuel/hour).

strong work!

I talked to Dave Lindsey, unfortunately I'm running on 1.5 hours of sleep so I don't remember exactly what he said, but the 19# is 19 cubic feet per minute and is a calibrations table.... so whatever that means.

Sadly Abaco's software is not live tuning, I can't even monitor what the MAF is outputting to know where to make the changes. However I think I might hack the AEM wide band and make the MAF's 5V reading the 'tach' so I can see where its hot or cold and fine tune things there.

It is a AEM wide band failsafe (worth every penny, thanks Julio from Bisimoto) so I can live monitor and record that, but otherwise I'm just running guess and check. If I can get the actual tach hooked up then I at least have a reference point to run off of but figuring out what wire is what is a little more complicated than expected, I don't exactly have time to sit down like I'd want and read the shop text, so I'm doing google key word searches in my free time. So far I've figured that there is a 'signal' wire on the back of the tach that triggers the coil, or electronic ignition, what that signal is I haven't the foggiest.. that and I'm not really in the mood to guess and check the wires as the gauge wasn't exactly cheap.

So I'm starting another 12 day, well 10 day actually as this is my last stint before school, stretch at work and I'll have very limited time to work on the car. I want to get the headliner in so I can put my quarter windows in so I can have a 'sealed' car and not worry about rain, dust, animals, or theft.. and well I'm not exactly sure I see that happening, however the progress that has been made has been absolutely amazing!!! The car runs, and isn't cooking the paint off! I will hopefully have the headliner in by later this week and will then be able to take her out on the road. I've also got my 911sc to work on so I should be kept busy! I just wish I had a little longer for summer break so I could devote a week or two into just the car.. she deserves it..

my take is that you need to map that voltage output to mirror this image:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1375761315.jpg

The only problem is that is for the 84, I'm not running it as an 85.5, and I don't know what values to correspond the voltages to... my MAF is in either kg/hr or lbs/hr... not the m^3/h that the original AFM used. So not only is there a conversion factor but there is the matter of the late AFM/DME combo not having a reference like the early AFM/DME combo.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1375842053.jpg

regardless, the map you posted does not correlate to either. the reason i'd try the early curve first is because of the flow rate matching the voltage curve. if that doesn't work, i'd try the linear map of the later AFM/DME.

actually, now that i am thinking about it. you have a point. i'd use the later map first and see what happens. the DME is expecting that linear map corresponding to the logarithmic increase of airflow. again, the map you posted in #3 is obviously not quite right and trying the linear map is not going to hurt. save both files and start the playing.

crap....


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1376018171.jpg

coolant? what happened?

actually, that looks like piss....

Yeah its coolant, The damn car overheated... /: so tuning has definitely taken a back seat to this, I had changed A LOT on that voltage curve, so hopefully I have it running again soon!!

how bad did it overheat? from where did the coolant escape?

I don't know exactly how hot it was, I was in front of the car when this happened, and had my dash disassembled. /: I'm pretty sure it came out of the tank, but from what I'm hearing in the other thread I started since it over pressurized so quick I blew the head gasket.. I was using Dex Cool...

well, maybe. only one way to find out.

ok i did a compression check 180 190 190 180 :) so its the cooling system...

could still be the head gasket. but i bet the radiator cap wasn't on all the way, or something.

we need another video, BTW. this is a cool project.

20130810 182204 - YouTube

so... there's the new video, lots of swearing... lots of problems...

lol a few of them fixed :)

your thermostat is stuck closed.

or it is in there backwards.

the car sounds like it is running good, so that is a plus.

Well idk if you are keeping up with my other thread on the matter, but I need to sort out a fuel injection issue, so I'm going to rob my parts car of; fuel injectors, rail, thermostat, and a water pump, as it is most likely fried.. This is all off of an 85.5

if i can peer pressure you into one thing, well two, get a NEW thermostat and, unless the other waterpump is new, a NEW waterpump. for sure a new thermostat, though. those things are cheap.

oh, and you have to pull the belts to get to the waterpump....

new belts and rollers.

i know, $$$.

Haha well that's the problem, this all started (the overheating) when I replaced the original.. I'll pick up a new one and test both the new and the old side by side, I'm going to pull the water pump out of the 85.5 and just rebuild it, a new one runs about $400 last I checked..

Well I might as well get new hoses while I'm at it... Lol and it needs new rollers and belts, I'm almost positive the pump is seized, horrid screeching when it idles super low from the 3 cylinder issue...