Power Window Banging!

[JD159]

So its on the drivers side, clearly the motor is working just not very well. It will go down, but it will also hesitate and make a loud clunk. Last night, it didn't want to go down, and instead would bang so hard it flexed the door panel!

I read that taking the door panel off can be a bit of a pain, if its just my tracks, can I just spray some silicone lube down the tracks and call it a day? Not sure if the banging is caused by the tracks or the motor itself. Also, when it didn't want to go down, I applied just a bit of pressure to the top of the window and it went down.

[AKCJ]

Could be that the glass is getting "jammed" so that the motor has to wind up and then the glass breaks loose thereby making the clunk noise. I've found this to be somewhat common.

Also could be the motor mounting bolts are loose so that the motor twists firsts then stops with a clunk. It's not that hard to take the door panel off. You will also have to pull back the plastic after you get the panel off. I usually just tape the plastic back on when I put it back together.

Regarding the power window motor. If you take it out and then need to reinstall you may have to power up the motor to get it to go into place. I was having trouble and had a friend show me this trick.

[JD159]

Ok. I'll probably just take the panel off as spray some lube didn't work at all.

Also, if the window is fully retracted, if I keep the button depressed in the down direction, it will make large thumps, only when it is fully retracted, not raised.

[Will_S_944]

I had the same problem summer 2011 after buying it... My window had started to shift and at times do some banging.. there were signs that this wasn't the original door, I took the door panel off and watched the travel of the guide arms.. it turned out that the guy that "sells, lives and breathes these things" had not fully tightened the bolts that adjust the window mechanicals.. I squared everything up, lubed the tracks and its been flawless every since

[JD159]

Door panel removed. Something doesn't look quite right with those bolts…

[Dean924s]

Bolts are loose I bet. They also don't look like the correct bolts. If you can add some fender washers and star washers. Mine came loose and did exactly as you described. Did you try running the window with the door card off to see what is going on?

[JD159]

Bolts are definitely on the loose side. Tightened them up and put a larger washer on the bolt that broke the metal. I'll hook up the mechanism and give it a shot, as well as spray some silicone lube on the tracks. It doesn't look like its ever been pulled apart. Plastic had all the glue, but the foam surrounding the lock switch was just falling apart…

I'll keep those bolts in there and just change up the washers.

When I press the switch to move the window down, is the limit switch in the motor, or in the switch itself? What I mean is that if I don't let go of the switch, when the the window is fully retracted, the motor will continue to operate and make huge loud clunks as well as flex the panel.

If the limiter is in the switch, since it goes up and down, I'll keep the switch and just make sure to stop it at the lowest point manually.

[Dean924s]

Is the metal on the door cracked or is that just the paint cracking due to the flexing / movement of the motor assembly.

I really don't know exactly how the limiter works on those. I know mine will keep sending power to the motor even when it is fully retracted. I don't think there is a electrical stop I think it is a mechanical stop only.

[JD159]

Thats the metal on the door cracking. I noticed that when its fully retracted, and if I don't let go and hold it down a little to long, it will reach a point where it starts to bend in that area. I'm thinking repeatedly not stopping it in time, as well as loose bolts, caused that.

[Dean924s]

Might want to drill the cracks and mig weld them