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				Early 944 Microsquirt DIYPNP...sort of
			 
			So some of you are aware of the Vorsche, some are not. If not,  it is an 85 golf with a 944 na drivetrain. It is going through a total transformation. I decided I wanted to turbo it, so that left the only option of a stand alone system. I talked with Matt at DIYautotune and he said that it would be awhile before they would have a setup for the early 944. He said if I wanted to, I could use the  factory ecu plug and make it work with their late 944 pnp that they already have out. I said sure and now it is a reality. I started it last night and it fired on the second crank.  Still have a ways to go but I will post all of the issues I encounter. I did have to add a 60-2 wheel. My original harness plugs right in. I also added a TPS switch and an IAT sensor to get rid of the AFM. I am also using the original 944 vr sensor. The turbo is mounted in the rear. I owned a 944 for 9 years prior to building this and I know how tight the engine bay. Not so with the Vorsche. These are the only pics I have but I will get some more tomorrow and answer what ever questions you have.    | ||
|  07-28-2010, 07:38 PM | 
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| Registered Join Date: Apr 2006 
					Posts: 5,179
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			I want to know everything there is to know about this build.  Drivetrain specifics. 
				__________________ M | ||
|  07-28-2010, 08:10 PM | 
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			Very cool, looking forward to more pictures!
		 
				__________________ 1985.5 944 NA 1972 Triumph GT6 1982 VW Westfalia 2003 F150 Supercrew 4x4 1988 F350 Regular Cab 4x4 | ||
|  07-29-2010, 05:09 AM | 
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			'85 Golf 4 dr, 944 NA engine w/75K original miles, 944 torque tube(extended), 944 rear suspension, '87 944 LSD transaxel, 944 rack and pinion. '87 944 dash shortened and modified. 944 center tunnel welded in, 944 center console. Audi TT dash wiring harness. Golf front suspension w/Audi 2pot calipers. Built 7 years ago as a father/son project in 12 weeks. Shaved engine bay, audi door handles, 9.5x15 BBS wheels front and rear, Proxes RA1 225/45/15 f&r. 8 Autometer gauges, mono wiper, shaved gas door.  Featured in PVW magazine in 2005, was on PowerBlockTV doing donuts. All work done by myself and my son. Fun car. Haven't had it on the road in a few years so its time to get it rollin again. Some old pics.    And where its at now.       | ||
|  07-29-2010, 03:57 PM | 
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| meister member | 
			I purchased a Microsquirt and components from Matt at DIYAutotune for a ME project utilizing gas phase propane on a IC engine. It was a sweet setup. I also built a MSII for my V8 944 project. Yours looks nice. Speedy   
				__________________ 1983 944 guards red with 16" Fuchs, Host of Wisconsin area timing/ balance shaft belt tensioning party 1987 944S Purchased from Legion. Corvette LT-1 V-8 conversion with Mega Squirt II Check on progress ---> www.porschehybrids.com/gallery/speedracing944 Favorite Road = www.tailofthedragon.com 318 turns in 11 miles (11 min 20 sec best run) | ||
|  07-29-2010, 04:47 PM | 
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| your average wrencher... | 
			dude, i'm seriously impressed!!!  nice work and ingenuity!   non inter-cooled? 
				__________________ 1982 931 *project* 1986 951 Garrett turbo, Rogue Tuned (sold  ) 1987 944S chipped, konis, rollbar (traded) 1979 924 total rebuild and blueprinted (sold) | ||
|  07-29-2010, 04:54 PM | 
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			looks like it; nice AC delete for the alternator.  Might want to ditch the J-boot to the intake/TB and go with a couple of mandrel's. That thing might pop on you. It's mainly there on the stock motor to deal with vacuum pulses and provide a flexible intake runner between the TB and the airbox/afm. 
				__________________ "porsche it's an institution" | ||
|  07-29-2010, 11:34 PM | 
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			Thanks for the comments. Couldn't really find a place to put an intercooler. Since the turbo is in the back, the boost pipe has a long ways to go and some of it will be cooled that way. The entire exhaust system is ceramic coated so that also will keep under hood, under car temps down. As far as the j-pipe goes, at one time I considered removing it but didn't. You make a good point so I'll be doing that soon. Some more pics.     Powder coated the subframe along with everything else that I can, including the oil pan, intake, etc. Built my own oven so it is cost effective.        | ||
|  07-30-2010, 01:48 PM | 
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| Registered Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Birmingham, AL 
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			Cool project    
				__________________ Tim '95 968 (Daily Driver) '87 944LS (track beast) | ||
|  07-30-2010, 02:02 PM | 
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| Registered Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Nashville,  TN 
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			very cool. what kind of turbo? i think i see a KKK logo..? how do you feed oil to it | ||
|  08-02-2010, 11:14 AM | 
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			Thanks guys. It has a T-Bird turbo. The smaller IHI not the t3. If it ends up being too small I can bolt a t3 on it. With a rear mounted turbo, it needs to be smaller than normal as does the tubing. I'm running a Mocal pump for the return. I drilled and tapped the pan for the return since the boss is already there on a NA pan. Pumps - Mocal Differential Cooler Pump | ||
|  08-02-2010, 07:02 PM | 
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| Registered Join Date: Jan 2003 
					Posts: 377
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			nice pump, I've heard of some people using a power steering pump on the engine and lower viscosity/closed loop oiling for turbos that were farther away from the engine.. Only con's I could think of with that is the lack of cooldown period, requiring a bit of idling before shutdown/ AKA poormans turbo timer.
		 
				__________________ "porsche it's an institution" | ||
|  08-02-2010, 10:22 PM | 
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			I would look into an electric powersteering pump mounted in the rear with a reservoir and an air to oil cooler with a temp-activated fan on it.  With the pump being electric, you could switch it to run even after the motor is off, allowing for the oil to circulate and cool, just like a turbo timer.  What kind of lag are you getting with so much plumbing? How may PSI is it running at? What was the reasoning behind going with a rear mounted turbo? Looks like there is plenty of room under the hood. 
				__________________ M | ||
|  08-02-2010, 10:52 PM | 
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| One apex at a time | 
			We need to talk. Or should I say I would like to talk to you. Here is my project that I have been documenting over on Clark's running. My project. >> Clark's Garage Message Board :: View topic - MEGASQUIRT 2 in my 924s I have been looking at the rear mounted turbo as well due to space constraints in the 924s. I am also looking at making up a system similar to how the callaway's were done. I am in the process of fabbing up a manifold to see if I can actually get it to fit. I went with the turbo from a Mazda 6 as its housing alignment is exactly the way I need it to be (yes I could re index others but I want to retain the westgate and this makes this simple to do. No mucking with the WG activator rod. Lastly the motor in the mazda is a 2.2l so using the turbo on the 2.5l will be a good match (and the maps agree as well) What injectors are you running? I have some 2.7R #35's on the shelf from a supercoup that I will probably end up using with some 10R 25watt resistors. I will go this rout as they have the same resistance as the stock 944 na injectors so I will not have to mess with the resistors when change to the #35's . I have some 951 injects but thee resistance is different enough that I think I would have to make other changes or get in the pulse width percent tuning and I really dont want to go there at the moment. I have also been talking with the guys at DIY about making a P&P for the early 944s. I know what is needed I just have not had the time to research it and put a board together that can deal with the signal from the speed and reference sensors and convert it to something the MS can use. If DIY does not do it first I am going to do that when I finish my current project. In the mean time I have converted my ignition to a cam fired EDIS ignition using parts from a 93 ford escort, 72-2 gear from car mcmaster and some bits from an FC rx7. Last edited by Dean924s; 08-06-2010 at 06:54 AM.. | ||
|  08-05-2010, 07:29 PM | 
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The car isn't on the road yet so I can't answer those questions. The reason for the rear mounted turbo is that there is no room for the exhaust pipe to crossover to the driver side. If I put it on the passenger side I would have to build a set of custom headers to mount it to and I have too much work to do already so the rear mount is the best solution.
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|  08-05-2010, 08:40 PM | 
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			[QUOTE=Dean924s;5492219]We need to talk. Or should I say I would like to talk to you. Here is my project that I have been documenting over on Clark's running. What injectors are you running? I have also been talking with the guys at DIY about making a P&P for the early 944s. IQUOTE] Looks like you have your hands full. Right now the stock injectors. If need be I will upgrade. The plug and play they have now for the 944S works pretty good for the 944 with the exception of having to use your original ecu header plug. I didn't cut any of the wiring to the original plug. I did put in the tps switch and the IAT sensor which necessitated the removal of those plugs. I bolted the 60-2 wheel to the front of the pulley along with a fabbed bracket for the original VR sensor. I cut the original VR sensor wiring in the middle and spliced in the necessary wire and shielding to lengthen it and then plugged it in to the factory wiring harness at the rear of the engine. For the wideband I plugged the wires into the tach harness and altitude compensator plugs and then wired the insides of the PNP to signal ground for the - and 02 for the positive for the autometer wideband. | ||
|  08-05-2010, 08:57 PM | 
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			So I've done alot of different things to get this running better and they worked. Now my only problems is that I can't get it to accelerate with out going lean. Maybe Matt  at DIY Autotune will have an answer for me tomorrow.  The water pump decided that it was time to die so I had to replace it and do the upgrade also. It managed to last 26 years and 74K miles. I decided to put the 60-2 wheel on the back of the alternator pulley. Took the wheel to a machinist and had him make it so it just barely slipped on and then had him true it. Made it so much easier to set up since the runout on the 60-2 wheel can only be .002. Moved the vr sensor to the falling edge of the 11th tooth. Got rid of the huge bracket. I mounted it to a small aluminum L bracket which bolts to the oil pan. Much simpler. Put a long bolt thru the vr sensor with a nut on the back which makes setting the gap really easy. Got rid of the stock intake boot and added some new silicone ones. Also picked up and installed the 944 turbo one way valve for the brake booster. Getting closer.      | ||
|  09-26-2010, 05:49 PM | 
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| One apex at a time | 
			Do you have better photos of  trigger wheel being mounte don the crank pully?
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|  10-04-2010, 06:51 AM | 
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| Registered Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Australia 
					Posts: 84
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			Must echo the other replies, COOL PROJECT. Always good to see more Mega(MIcro)Squirters. Also satisfying to see people help debunk the "don`t turbo your NA just buy a 951" crowd. Show em that some effort, skill and $$$ can achieve something really unique. A golf body is unique. Kudos to you and your son. First thing to check with the lean accell is fuel pressure. Temporarily T in a gauge on the rail or pressure line. Are you sure that the FPR is getting a boost as well as vacuum referenced signal? What FPR you using? 3 bar or the 2.5 bar or adjustable? Those cheap ebay FPRs have limited flow and leaking reference line fittings and caused me similar lean out headaches. Running pressure should be base (static 3 bar or whatever) then plus boost pressure, or less vacuum, whatever MAP is. If thats OK then how are your acell enrich settings. These can get very involved. Not only trying more fuel but also more MAP based enrichment may help. I use mostly TPSDOT as it is up to 200mS faster than MAPDOT. However with good settings you can both reduce lag and provide acell enrichment while building up boost. Take it easy tuning, monitor your AFR`s. Wouldn`t like to see a detonated engine before its resolved. Good luck. | ||
|  10-04-2010, 01:23 PM | 
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| Registered | Quote: 
 You just need to take it to a machine shop and have it opened up to fit the back of the pulley flange. Then once that is done you can pick up the holes from the pulley so that it can be sandwiched between the pulley and the belt drive gear. If I end up taking it back off I will take some pics. | ||
|  10-05-2010, 04:06 PM | 
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