Intermitant no crank

[arttrout]

Help please! Often, when it's hot out or after a long drive, when I turn the key, the starter doesn't crank. I hear the fuel pump, but nothing else.

The battery is new. When it does crank it cranks great. Sometimes it will start with a jump, after which it will start perfectly, until it gets hot again.

I have replaced the ignition switch (had a crack in the plastic), re crimped the 3 wires on the positive battery terminal. Replaced the positive battery terminal, found and tightened a bad ground between the battery and the fire wall. After reading that the solenoid could be sticking and occasionally getting it to crank after whacking it with a hammer, I bought a new starter (re-built Bosch), no luck. I even jumped between the large bolt on the starter to the solenoid with no luck. I also jumped from the battery negative to the starter case to rule out a bad ground at the starter, and jumped from the positive to the large started input to rule out the positive cable.

Any other likely things I have missed?

[SolReaver]

check to see if your starter is getting signal to the solenoid. if yes, bad solenoid. If no, ignition switch or wiring.

how is that for being helpful?

[arttrout]

Excellent suggestion SolReaver, hadn't thought of that. Thanks! Also need to check the neutral safety switch, thought of that the other night while camping! Time to climb under!

[arttrout]

It's fixed. It was the starter/solenoid. When I installed the new starter (bosh re-man) there was a tag on one of the solenoid signal wires to the effect of "if your car only uses one wire, use the" and then something unintelligible. I figured it meant to use the one with the tag. Wrong! When Auto-Zone bench tested it, they also used that connection and declared it dead. Napa also called it dead until they contacted their supplier and were able to clear that up. Re-installed and now she starts just fine. Hope it stays that way. Tomorrow's commute should tell, it's supposed to be 100 out!

[DannoXYZ]

Yes, that label actually says something like "If your car only uses one wire for +positive to solenoid, do not use this terminal". That is a separate ground for the solenoid in cases where the solenoid is not grounded through the starter & transmission case.

[SolReaver]

Yea, that happens. Glad you got it straight.

[arttrout]

Started just fine after work today and the temp was 102! Got stuck in 5 miles of stop and go and the temp was starting to climb past the 3rd line. Switched on the heat and it dropped to under third line. 102 out and the heat at max sucks! Radiator is full, no leaks, all fans running. Is this normal?

[gacook]

Originally Posted by arttrout

Started just fine after work today and the temp was 102! Got stuck in 5 miles of stop and go and the temp was starting to climb past the 3rd line. Switched on the heat and it dropped to under third line. 102 out and the heat at max sucks! Radiator is full, no leaks, all fans running. Is this normal?

I'd say no. I live in Arizona (hotter than Hell here), and I never go over midpoint on the temp gauge.

[Rasta Monsta]

1. If it isn't hitting the red, I wouldn't worry.
2. If the above doesn't sound good to you, pull and flow test the radiator.

[VirginiaF1]

Originally Posted by arttrout

Started just fine after work today and the temp was 102! Got stuck in 5 miles of stop and go and the temp was starting to climb past the 3rd line. Switched on the heat and it dropped to under third line. 102 out and the heat at max sucks! Radiator is full, no leaks, all fans running. Is this normal?

Howdy..
Page 36 of manual states that upper third (212F - 239F) indicates that "the engine is overheating"..

More experienced posters than myself can advise us for how long our aluminum M44 engines can run above 212F..

If the radiator is original, then perhaps (like me) you're due for a new one.
After much research and debate, I added Redline's Water Wetter last year and saw an immediate drop from ~212F to 195F during 100F ambient days last summer.
(After a fresh G-0 5 mix and radiator flush..)

[John_AZ]

Originally Posted by VirginiaF1

Howdy..
Page 36 of manual states that upper third (212F - 239F) indicates that "the engine is overheating"..

More experienced posters than myself can advise us for how long our aluminum M44 engines can run above 212F..

If the radiator is original, then perhaps (like me) you're due for a new one.
After much research and debate, I added Redline's Water Wetter last year and saw an immediate drop from ~212F to 195F during 100F ambient days last summer.
(After a fresh G-0 5 mix and radiator flush..)

Just more FYI on Water Wetter.

I got about the same drop in temps using Water Wetter on the '87 924S.

You only need 1 ounce per quart. 2 gallons=8oz., Using the entire bottle will not lower the temps further. At $11 a bottle --watch for sales--- save some for the next coolant flush.

Red Line Synthetic Oil - WaterWetter® Coolant Additives - WaterWetter®

Water Wetter will work best (drop temps further) if you use less coolant than the prescribed 50/50 mix.

J_AZ

[arttrout]

Mine is the early model. According to Clark's (Sensors and Gauges - Information, Troubleshooting, and Testing), I was right about 100c, or 212f, a bit hot for my tastes. The water-pump is new, the radiator is a replacement. I had it out a few years ago when I was chasing temp problems due to disappearing fluid (oil cooler seals finally the problem) and it looked clean but if I have to I'll take it out again. It's time to re-tension the timing belt, could low belt tension there be a concern? Otherwise, I'll be doing the flush and try some wetting additive. Thanks for the advice!