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Help -> Tried cleaning window switch. Now no windows working
Reading Clark's Garage trying to fix a bad window switch.
Starting out with Passenger window switch working passenger window. Drivers side switches: a) driver window switch working driver window. b) driver side passenger switch - not working the passenger window. I remove the driver side pass switch to check contacts. appear clean as whistle and making contact. Put this switch back in after reassembly, and test it. Still does not operate the pass window. Now I try the passenger side switch and it no longer operates the passenger window. ( fuses good ) However when I use both side passenger switches then the passenger window goes up & down. :eek: So I try swapping these passenger switches, hoping that at least until I replace I can open the passenger window from the drivers seat w/o leaning over. Now none of the switches work either drivers or passenger window. Put them back where they were originally and still none working. Any suggestions, now what ? Per Clark's Window fuse is # 4 a 30 amp fuse. # 4 fuse is not broken. ( although it is a white fuse as are most of the fuses in the longer fuse box. ) Not sure if this had any effect on the switch issue above but these fuses do not jive with Clark's Garage fuse diagrams. Help. Austin |
You did open up the switch and clean the contacts inside didn't you? If you took them apart then something must be out of place inside the switch or still dirty. Do you have a multi meter to check switch function? Do you have access to a spare switch set? If not you might try using jumpers to operate the windows to determine they still work.
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Buy new switches. Keep these for spares and experimenting.
Just frustrating. J_AZ |
you may not be looking at the correct fuse chart.
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Check relay; clean all 3 switches, grounds
On the 3 window switches there are wires that interconnect all the switches if I understand it correctly such that the switch you don't disassemble and clean may be the weak link. Once I had to gently re-arch the "V" of the contacts because over time they had flattened.
There is a windows relay floating around loose under the dash (at least there was on my car) to the right of the steering column. It may have gone bad. Shortly after I bought my car 25 years ago I chased down that devil relay and removed it, jumpering terminals #30 to #87 on the socket (according to my notes from 1989--I take no responsibility if yours is different) so that the windows work independent of the ignition key, you can try that to see if the relay is bad. Use a short fat wire with male blades, there is a lot of current. Now my relay is in a parts box in the garage. I hate windows that won't open just because the key is off. If all that fails, check all the associated grounds, I don't know where they are for the windows. Good luck and have fun. |
Quote:
Clark's Garage Home Page was wrong for my car ... Pelican Parts: 944 Early Fuse and Relay Layout is correct for and '87 924S .. AA |
I have a 924s and this is a link to the fuze chart I made.
Fuse & Relays 924s There is a link to a printable version at the top of the page or you can just download it as a PDF |
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