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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpeedyS2 View Post
If you are anywhere near Raleigh (or Charlotte, for that matter) I might be able to point you to some great shops who know what they're doing when it comes to Porsche.

Good luck!
I work in Charlotte
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Old 11-20-2013, 04:12 PM
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Do not sell...self medicate!
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Old 11-20-2013, 04:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Endat View Post
I work in Charlotte
Though I have no direct experience with either of these shops, a good friend and long-time 944 owner says Jim Burton at Hendrick Porsche is excellent.

I have also heard good things about Eurowerks Services and Zuffenhaus Racing & Fabrication.
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Old 11-21-2013, 03:54 AM
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I thought Hendrick was just a chain of car dealerships.. I have talked to someone at Eurowerks + Zuffenhaus before, havent had any work done there but they seem pretty knowledgeable.. i'll give them a call.

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Originally Posted by Stephen03 View Post
Do not sell...self medicate!
Beer and a giant doobie works fine...
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Old 11-21-2013, 11:40 AM
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So someone at Eurowerks/Zuffenhaus told me there's virtually no chance of finding someone that can recoat the cylinders these days.. And any 8v Block would be virtually the same, but I found a 16v block here... It just needs cleaned.

I'm going to take it back to the same machine shop to have it cleaned, with instructions not to touch the cylinders this time (seemed like an innocent mistake so I didn't want to make too big a deal of it).

The machine shop guy uses a heated alkaline cleaning solution to clean aluminum blocks.. my question is, is that heated alkaline solution also going to destroy the Alusil lining? This Alusil lining seems pretty sensitive and any damage seems irreversible.. so I dont want to take any chances this time.
Old 11-21-2013, 12:19 PM
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Being honest the first time is a sign of a good shop, not after you found out they did know what they are doing.
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Old 11-21-2013, 12:37 PM
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Any block is going to have the same problem... that some goober honed it like it was iron? Nope. Most non-turbo blocks will have nice bores and can be left alone.

Do not use a caustic solution on the block, you do not want to strip the bores. The process to lap them is carefully done with a caustic paste so an oven cleaner bath will degrade this.

IMO when the pistons and bores wear in some of the tin piston plating transfers to the cylinder walls and this is best left alone. I would just clean the outside of the block with brake cleaner.
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Old 11-21-2013, 12:41 PM
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I wouldn't take it back to the same shop, just clean it at home with brake clean and engine degreaser.
Old 11-21-2013, 02:42 PM
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I have those things lying around.. With some brushes and plenty of shop towels..
Old 11-21-2013, 03:38 PM
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Quote:
So if the cylinders cant be honed without an expensive laboratory, and everyone avoids this process.. how long does this special liquid chemical coating last? I am thinking any "used" block I get will have worn cylinders..



I can't assume this Alusil junk will make it last forever... How many miles until this special cylinder lining is depleted? and what would be the point of putting someone else's used/worn cylinder walls in a brand new engine?



And if it can't be recoated without throwing it out of spec, it sounds like these are single-use engine blocks unless you want to use larger rings or change pistons.. is that correct?



No wonder I see so many chevy conversions... the M44 engine sounds like it's very sensitive and delicate :P
I still don't think you understand what we are telling you. Alusil is not a coating or a liner, our engines don't have either. Alusil is used in very high end engine manufacture, think V8/V10/V12 Mercedes, BMW, Porsche, Audi. It's a way of producing an aluminum, very hard wearing, liner less block.

There are no special tools required to hone and finish the bores, any engine builder worth anything will have a diamond hone and felt pads for lapping the bores. Only thing they need is the lapping paste and the knowledge to do the job.

You can pick up a used block for real cheap and as long as the bores do not have any scratches you can catch with your fingernail you are good to go. The bores should look a dull grey finish, no cross hatching, really smooth to the touch.

Personally I would go down the used block route and clean it myself, there is no need to clean the bores, wipe them with light oil and a rag if you must, you won't damage them that way, unknown chemicals should not be used and are not needed.
Old 11-21-2013, 03:43 PM
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Right.. so when I get the other block, should I chuck my original block in the trash, or can it be saved?

I had to trash my last block.. would hate to waste another

Last edited by Endat; 11-21-2013 at 04:29 PM..
Old 11-21-2013, 04:24 PM
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Could make a nice table, or put some money in your pocket if you recycle.
Old 11-21-2013, 06:10 PM
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So to recap:

  1. You are NOT selling, but are pushing forward (Do I have this right? I so, I applaud you).
  2. You have sourced a 16V block.
  3. You are not bringing it back to Cletus at the machine shop for a hot alkaline bath, just going to clean it yourself.

Sounds like a good plan to get back on track. Honestly when I started to read this thread I could feel your excitement and saw the frustration when you realized the cylinder problem. I felt (and continue to feel) really bad for you. I wish you the best of luck as you move forward.

GHEN
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Old 11-22-2013, 02:35 AM
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Must. not. return. to. Cletus.
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Old 11-22-2013, 02:53 AM
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Quote:
Right.. so when I get the other block, should I chuck my original block in the trash, or can it be saved?



I had to trash my last block.. would hate to waste another..
The block can be sleeved for stock pistons but most people don't go that route due to cost. Good used blocks are cheaper.

You could keep it, sleeve it and rebuild when you have funds available and build a spare for yourself.

Sleeve service: 944online.com - Engine Block Find Parts For Your Porsche 944 And Get Your Car Back On The Road.
Old 11-22-2013, 03:19 AM
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Endat - I feel your pain. These engines are odd ducks. I'm not interested in playing ball with them... engine swap for something more powerful, more reliable and more conventional. Then drive it without worry of P-tax reprisal.
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Old 11-22-2013, 09:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GHEN View Post
  1. You are NOT selling, but are pushing forward (Do I have this right? I so, I applaud you).
  2. You have sourced a 16V block.
  3. You are not bringing it back to Cletus at the machine shop for a hot alkaline bath, just going to clean it yourself.
That pretty much sums it up.. Just gonna be a few weeks before I will continue.. stay tuned
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Old 11-22-2013, 12:45 PM
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About the block I found... the guy decided to remove the main bearing studs, I cant find the main bearing studs for sale anywhere. What are my options here?
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Old 11-24-2013, 08:11 AM
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Did you try Porsche?
Old 11-24-2013, 09:52 AM
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I have been buying all of my rebuild parts from Pelican.. I found a complete bottom end from eBay, looks like it's been sitting for a while but the cylinders look Good.

Porsche 1987 944 s Engine Block Lower Engine Minus Intake | eBay

Quote:
Porsche 1987 944 S

Engine has 100k miles on it. Being removed from car. Intake has been sold.

Engine had thrown the belt and had bent valves.

Rest of engine is in good shape and car was ll maintained. Interior Mint.

Block comes with all accessories, ac, starter, exhaust, wire harness, alternator.

Also have the two cam shafts.

Can ship anywhere in US. ask for international rates if interested.

Engine and car in covered storage
On the positive, it comes complete so it will give me a good idea of how everything goes back together. Plus extra parts
Old 11-24-2013, 11:06 AM
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