basics : removing brake rotors
 

what should I try next to get brake rotors removed?

on the front, I already did:

impact driver on screws w/ WD-40 (worked!)
pound inboard edge of rotor w/ 1-pound mallet and rotate
pound the horizontal surface of rotor (around the hub) and rotate
apply simultaneous force using M8-1.25 threaded holes
the above three in combination

I tightened the screws pretty good, but have yet to start using breaker bars. The rotors are probably bad, but I'd like to keep them intact if possible. my rear rotors are trash.

Removed the hub nut?

The hub and rotor come off as 1, then you can remove the remove and replace the rotor using the 6 nuts and bolts.

It is different on late offset, the rotor goes over the hub. Its held in place by 2 pan head Phillips screws.

You probably need to give it a little more force. A dead blow mallet on the backside of the rotor is usually enough (hit outwards), but if your having trouble just thread the two bolts in for backing the rotor off the hub, just make sure you do a little at a time.

For the rears, just remember to leave the parking brake off.

Yeah, I tried all these things on one stuck rotor the first time I changed mine. Not even close. I ended up cutting that rotor to pieces with an air chisel after high torque in the threaded holes cracked the rotor hat. At least the crack gave me a place to put the chisel.
Good luck!

When I removed the rotors on my S parts car that I picked apart I undid the bolts on the rotor and the hub bolt. The hub bolt has a allen key set screw. The rears you have to undo the hub bolt. And do it with the parking brake on. I did not and I haven't gotten them out yet. I'll try and use use an air impact wrench

What about introduction of oils (WD-40, Kroil,etc) to the mating surfaces? Could it leach into the bearing?

Liquid Wrench works great. I used that on mine actually.

all responses helped, thanks. the rotor is off. here's a recap for comment before I do more damage to the rest of the hubs:

went out and got:
4 lb. dead blow hammer
PB Blaster (at long last - everyone loves this stuff).

sprayed along the wheel studs, screw holes in the rotor. down the slots on the rotor. along the front rotor-hub seam, and inside in back of the rotor. down the slots on the edge too. pounded just on the area where the dust guard is open, then rotate. also applied a good amount force (no breaker bars) to the back-out bolts (I called them screws up above). this made dimples in the hub by the way. This was a miserable process that took about 2 hours, but gladly not all day.

now here's one big question I need help with - my hub doesn't look good - the edge looks damaged - is this correct? what should I do - here's three views. the one on the right is from some good brass-brushing.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385934527.jpg

also another question - can brake cleaner go in the area marked by the green brackets? I got some in there, now there's a sand grindy sound when the hub rotates.

The inside of the hub has a seal to protect it from contamination, so i wouldn't worry to much about the brake cleaner or sand that made it down there.

I suggest pulling the hub off and repacking the wheel bearings with grease. Check the condition of the bearing races, if they are scored, pitted or heavily grooved go ahead and replace them and the bearings. Bring the hubs to a machine shop and have them press out the old bearing races and hot tank the hubs to clean them up, this will let you to better inspect the hubs and make a decision about reusing or finding a good used one.

Removing the hub and repacking the bearings with grease is fairly simple, albeit a messy job (requires a few pairs of nitrile gloves!)

This will also let you to really clean the spindle and rotor dust shield.

OK I have them all off. the rear rotors were a piece of cake compared to front.

I gather the hub is made of aluminum - yes?

I am trying to understand the pronounced corrosion/chipping on my front hubs. some material came out in the corner of the rotor, like a chip. some of it can brass-brush off into a white dust, leaving marks - i.e. seems there's no end in sight as if I am grinding the hub away.

but that aside, helpful things I learned were to use Kroil on the front, and PB Blaster in the inside of the front rotors, however, rear rotors allow no inside access, so it is all front application of oil.

4 lb. dead-blow (HF) was good. needed to develop a technique, e.g. on the front left, some countering with left hand while swinging with left, choked up. took an hour.

thanks all for the help.

Hubs are made from aluminum. Here's what a cleaned up one looks like. The shop that turned my rotors found it easier to use the hubs to mount the rotors for turning. Nice side benefit is that they degreased, and bead blasted the hubs so I got them back nice and clean.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1386460915.jpg

MB968, been meaning to say thanks, that pic helps. What are the teeth for - is that a 944S?

Also in general: after banging so much on the front rotors, what should be checked on/around the knuckle? Alignment? Control arm? Spindle?

Any real-life experience anyone can share would help.

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<I>ABS</I>
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<i>don't worry, regular driving excerpts a lot more forces on the spindles and hubs than you could ever excerpt with a 4lb dead blow hammer</i>

Its a hub off a 968. And yes as stated above those are the teeth that the ABS sensor uses to send pulses to the computer. The computer compares the pulses from both front, and back wheels to see if one is a lot slower or stopped. If so, the computer releases the brake for that wheel so it will match the appropriate speed of the others.