First start after project completion- checklist
 

OK, I'm almost ready for the first start up. Still have to get the PS, AC/ALT tensioners functioning properly, the center bars are pretty stuck. Anyway here's a recap of what's been completed:

New timing and balance belt
Front engine reseal
Oil cooler reseal
New rotor and distributor
New ignition wires- on order
New PS reservoir and updated hose

Here are my thoughts on restart procedure.

1. Fill all fluids
2. Prime oil pump
3. Vent the cooling system
4. Bleed the PS system

1 & 2 done prior to start up.
3 & 4 Done upon initial startup, provided there's oil pressure.

Question- how common is there to be no oil pressure after a project like this. The PO reported no oil pressure once after the car sat for a couple months. Just curious if this is something I can expect. Prior to the project I had no issues with oil pressure. Of course, if I screwed up the installation of the OPRV I will have issues. But other than that, any issues with no oil pressure after a project like this?

Any feedback or suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks.

You'll be safe to just start it. All the bearings are coated in oil, so you'll be fine. Just watch the gauge.

If you hear the lifters rattling after 30 seconds and still no pressure, shut her down and find the real problem. If the lifters aren't rattling and the oil pressure is still zero, you've likely got a bad sender/gauge issue. Good luck.

very interested in this question as well.

where was the car being worked on?
what were the conditions?
how long was it sitting?

Car has been in my garage in central California. Temperatures in the garage for the most part between 55-75 degrees. Project began in November.

You should be good to go as Chicks says..and listen for the lifter clatter to die down - watch the gauge, you should start to see pressure as soon as the crank starts turning a few times. Then it will go 4-5 Bar on start-up if all OK.

Are you using a good quality oil filter?, the cheaper ones can allow the oil to drain out all too easily. Do a search on the forum for discussion and opinion on good makes, etc. OEM stuff is a good choice though. If you have a misaligned OPRV then the pressure will most likely peg high rather than no pressure.

You haven't done too much tear-down work to affect the oil system, unless the oil pump drive sleeve is not engaging, but I think you have that sorted.

Hope it all turns out OK, and she fires right up! :)

Keep an eye on the PS reservoir, as when the pump runs it can drain that quite quickly. Have some ATF readily available to pour in once the car starts.

With regard to the tensioner turnbuckle bars, I had the same problem. All I did was remove them, use a little heat (blowlamp) and penetrating oil to release them, then wire brush the threads, copper grease and your ready to refit! Easy maintenance. Remember one side is left-hand thread.

for the record - I suppose it was dry there too.

oh another thing - I only have some general comments here, but I read some website that had some decent suggestions, such as:

* put the battery on a float charger (which means, AFAIK, low-amperage "top-off" mode). I have a Die Hard one.
* change the oil because it degrades over time

also I'd say put a new air filter in there too... look for animal nests... um.. have a fire extinguisher ready... that kind of thing....

Remember, the turnbuckle threads aren't standard rotation. Look at the threads to be sure you aren't turning them tighter instead of looser.

This will sound pretty shadetree, but if you get no oil pressure, tap the gauge a couple times, as the needle may just be stuck. Restored my sanity a couple times...

I have a MAHLE oil filter and air filter for the startup. I will keep an eye on the ATF.

Do you know which end of the tensioners are left hand thread? I was thinking it was the right end on both the PS and AC/ALT tensioner.

Car was immaculately kept, no critters here. Good advice on the battery charger and fire precautions.

As they are reversible, it really depends on how they were put on last, simply compare the threads to a standard bolt - you will see the difference.

Thanks everyone!
 

Well I wrapped up the project!

Before starting I filled the oil using Castro GTX 20/50. then I raised the nose of the car a little and vented the coolant. Used Dexcool. Took a while to get a steady flow out the vent, had to squeeze the hoses to burp the tank, eventually got a steady flow.

First start was nerve racking, my hands were visibly shaking. I kept going over everything in my mind to make sure I didn't miss anything. I literally sat there in the car for 5 minutes, before the boy gave me a count down.

I turned her over and she fired right up! Belts started to squeak some, but other than that oil pressure and temp was fine. Bled the PS fluid and retentioned the belts and the squeal disappeared. Drove her around for about 30 minutes and no problems. Oil pressure was almost 5 bar before fluctuating between 3.5-5 once she warmed up.

Tried the AC and it sounds like the clutch bearing may be going out. Could the bearing be dry from sitting for a couple months?

All in all, this project was a challenge for a noob. But I took my time and did my best. For the moment there are no leaks, other than a drip from around one of the PS pump bolts. I should have rebuilt the pump while I had the front end tore down. We'll see how serious it becomes.

Next up, replace plugs and wires and new fuel lines.

Thanks again to everyone for your help!

One quickie tip for the future when doing this type of complete oil drain operation. On initial start up, pull the coil wire, then crank the engine with the starter till you get an oil pressure indication on the gauge. Just enough to move the needle, then you know all the oil galleys are full. Connect the coil wire and away you go.

Cheers
Mikey

Will do, thanks!