Timing, WP, FOES, Oil Cooler Project

[tstark]

I have to say, I really respect all of you for working on 944s. This is my first 944 and first major project on the car. The advice so far has been outstanding! Thanks!

I've also realized that I am going to be asking a lot more questions than I previously thought. It's kinda like starting a job and realizing you need another part or tool that you don't have. That's the level of advice here, as important as the part or tool needed to do the job.

So, instead of posting my questions to different thread each time I'll just post to this thread going forward.

Here's where I'm at:

#1 at TDC, flywheel lock on, AC/ALT/PS belts off, timing front cover off, distributor off.

Now I am staring at this. The rotor screw was stripped so I had to cut a notch with the dremel for a standard screwdriver, applied pb blaster with a q-tip before it would come off. The rotor would not budge. Had to carefully dremel a couple notches and chip it off in pieces. RIP rotor. The inner sleeve is stuck on the shaft and will not budge. Channel locks were no use.

Any ideas how to get this off without scarring up the shaft? And no that's not pirate talk

[John_AZ]

Remove the 8mm bolt on the top.
Grab the nose ----be gentle--do not use a vice grips (unless absolutely necessary)






Note: Very tight tolerance-extreme tightness. Work slowly and it will come out.

Align the bolt holes to install

GL
J_AZ

[nynor]

this happened to me. as i recall, i used vice grips to twist the inner sleeve off, but put a fuel line hose over both of the jaws.

the brass is much softer than the shaft and a wee bit of scarring is going to destroy the shaft, so i'd just cut a slot in the inner sleeve with the dremel.

[tstark]

Is it necessary to remove the driver/collar (944 105 142 00) to get that rotor collar off? I checked that 8 mm, neither of my 8 mm wrenches would fit and my 9 was too big. The 8 mm is on the underside of the driver/collar (pointing at 4 o'clock) making it hard to get at. Which is weird, I figured it'd be on top if the car is at TDC.

I'm assuming that any damage done to the driver/collar while removing the rotor collar would require replacing the driver/collar so the new rotor mounts tight as heck? I won't damage the actual camshaft correct?

[nynor]

i didn't pull the collar.

right. you won't damage the camshaft.

[tstark]

Originally Posted by nynor

this happened to me. as i recall, i used vice grips to twist the inner sleeve off, but put a fuel line hose over both of the jaws.

the brass is much softer than the shaft and a wee bit of scarring is going to destroy the shaft, so i'd just cut a slot in the inner sleeve with the dremel.

I considered this, but am afraid of messing up the shaft (driver) if I cut too deep...I'd prefer not to have to replace it.

Just for reference

[nynor]

i bet if you just score the brass with the dremel, you can get it to split. if i had a dremel, i wouldn't hesitate for a second to split that thing. the steel on that shaft is wicked hard. further, if you do score it, it won't affect anything. my .02.

[Techno Duck]

Apply heat, twist off with channel locks.

[John_AZ]

Right +1^

Now, since you got this far remove the cam bolt and install the upgraded bolt !

Pelican Parts - Product Information: 999-510-022-08-M260

This will prevent camshaft damage if the bolt fails.
Part 19 in the PET photo above.

The Porsche 944 Cam Tower

J_AZ

[tstark]

Originally Posted by John_AZ

Right +1^

Now, since you got this far remove the cam bolt and install the upgraded bolt !

Pelican Parts - Product Information: 999-510-022-08-M260

This will prevent camshaft damage if the bolt fails.
Part 19 in the PET photo above.

The Porsche 944 Cam Tower

J_AZ

I believe my reseal kit has this part. I will double check though. Thanks.

[tstark]

OK, going to try some heat and channel locks then the dremel. Will post results.

[tstark]

Used the Dremel to cut into the rotor collar, went a little deep and knocked the metal beneath. Will sand it down a bit. Anyway, the cut in the rotor collar gave me an edge to tap with a screwdriver and hammer. Just tapped it light enough to create some movement. Applied channel locks and after about 5 minutes of grunting and cursing the darn thing finally came off.

[tstark]

Got the crankshaft pulley bolt off. Wasn't too difficult. What's the easiest way to get the actual pulley off?

[nynor]

why are you pulling the crankshaft pulley?

i bet if you tap it with a ball peen hammer, it'll just come right off. be sure to mark which side is which on both the inner and out pulley.

i never take the pulley's off to do a belt change. just saying.

[tstark]

I'm trying to follow Clark's Garage method. I got the PS pulley off and now see the 4 bolts. Do I need to remove those to get the rest pulled out?

[Techno Duck]

Use a gear puller with a socket as a standoff over the end of the crank shaft.

The 4 allen head bolts hold the balance shaft gear to the crank pulley. Removing will make it easier to get a gear puller on there.

The crank pulley only needs to be removed if you are replacing the crank oil seal or the oil pump drive sleeve.

[nynor]

oh, wait. you said you are doing the water pump... yeah, the crank pulley has to come off.

[tstark]

Yep water pump and oil sleeve, front seals.

This is what I'm removing. Do the 4 bolts have to come off to get the pulley off or can I get it off without removing them?

[nynor]

nope. the only thing holding that pulley on is the belt, being that you have the nut off.

[tstark]

Well I yanked and tugged, and tapped and can't get this sucker off. Bought a gear pulley, but it was the wrong size, returned it and the new one won't work either.

Since I am putting new belts on, would cutting the old balance belt help with getting the AC/ALT and balance pulleys off? Would using PB blaster help and if so where would I spray it?

I'm going to look at Napa and Sears tomorrow for a gear pulley that will fit. Really bummed, I had hoped to be further along than I am...