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944 running but not moving
I have an '84 944 with an automatic transmission in it. A couple of months ago the old transmission went kaput, so I bought a new one and just finished installing it. I filled it up with all of the correct fluids and went for a drive a couple of nights ago. It worked well then.
When I tried to drive it today it wouldn't move in reverse unless I really pressed down hard on the gas pedal, at which point it would lurch as if it is resisting something, but would go backward. When I shifted it into neutral it also tried to go forward. It will only start in park, and will not start in neutral. I can't push it backwards in any gear with the engine off either. I could really use some help with this. I am pretty certain that I installed the transmission correctly, and I am hesitant to assume that it is a bad transmission since I just got the thing. Does anybody know what the problem or problems could be? |
I am not familiar with the auto transaxle cars but could you not have enough fluid in there to get the car to move now? There is a specific way to add fluid to these transaxles and are you sure that you used the corrcet fluid to begin with?
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Parking Brake?
Parking Brake?
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Sounds like low transmission fluid, did you fill the fluid up while the engine was running? The engine has to be running, and the car needs to be in neutral when you check/fill it.
Here's what the owners manual says. Checking ATF level -The ATF level should be checked regularly, even between the normal service intervals. -The ATF level is visible at the transparent reservoir, which is mounted at the end of the transmission casing. -The fluid level must be between the minimum and maximum marks. -To check the ATF level the vehicle must be standing level. -Gear selector lever in position "N" with the engine running at idle speed. The transmission must be at operational temperature. -If too much ATF is added it must be drained. Good luck with it. -George |
I filled it up with the appropriate amount of fluid and it is still having the same issue. I filled it to the correct level several times the other night until it was consistently at the correct amount. Today it was a little bit low while the car was on. When I have my car in neutral, the wheels spin forward. This is the same as every other gear with the exception of park and reverse. When I shift back into park and let off the gas, the car jolts forward a little bit, as if it is still attempting to move forward until stopped.
I am fairly certain it is not the parking brake, as it is freely moving forward without resistance. The car goes forward perfectly, it is getting it to not try to move forward that is the issue. I have checked the shift linkage and it appears good. I am stumped right now. |
It does act as if it is the parking brake while in reverse, but I'm pretty confident that that isn't it. It reacts completely differently in all other gears. Is it possible that the car is trying to go forward in all gears and the resistance in reverse is because of that?
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I am not sure of your problem but it doesn't sound good. You might want to look for another auto transaxle. Not sure if a flush would help with a lucas or similar product but it might be worth a try. My 2 cents.
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When I received the new-old transmission, there was a note attached saying that it was necessary for me to flush the torque converter fluid. I have no idea how to do that and everybody that I asked said that they had no idea what that procedure was either. I figured that I could just change the transmission fluid a few times and that that would accomplish the same thing. Is it possible that there would be some grime or dirt in it that would mess up the transmission? Would changing the fluid and checking the filter a few times be likely to fix it? I already have the fluid, so this would definitely be the best thing to do, if it is a likely solution.
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Yes it is possible that dirt and grime being disturbed and pumped around could cause problems. I have only had one auto transaxle and it was delivered to me by mistake but does your converter just come off from the transaxle itself. Maybe they wanted you to remove the converter and remove all fluid and fill it back up to remove any crap that was in it? The damage may already be done if there is a major clog in there somewhere. That jolting may put some stress on your flex dampener as well and they aint cheap.
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Quote:
Try adjusting per the following 31 Selector lever cable - adjusting 1 The following task requires two people. 2 Move the selector lever to the P position. 3 Loosen the nut on the clamping sleeve. 4 While one person holds the selector lever in P, adjust the operating lever on the transmissin by pressing it back against its stop into its corresponding P position. 5 Tighten the nut on the clamping sleeve and torque it to 4 ±1 ft-lb (0.5 ± 0.1 m-kg) 6 Have the person beneath the vehicle get out, then start the engine. Hold one foot on the brake and move the selector lever in and out of all positions. An engagement jolt should be felt in positions R, D, 2, and 1 about 5 seconds after engaging that gear. |
If I'm not mistaken, it uses a differential, not a transaxle.
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It engages correctly on every position. I checked every gear. I haven't tried to feel for an engagement jolt.
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And now it is starting in neutral.
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so I guess that I should change the transmission fluid, and if that doesn't help it I'll have to take the transmission back off and drain the torque converter. I really was trying to have this car drive able.
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There should be a filter there somewhere. You might want to remove and inspect it when changing your fluid. At this point I don't think that removing the converter would help things.
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yeah, I can get to the filter. I can just change the fluid like 7 or 8 times. I had no idea how to flush the torque converter. Have any of you ever had to do it? I don't even know why someone would rebuild the transmission and not flush the converter.
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Get some lucas auto tranny additive. It might help. Maybe google converter flush and see what comes up. I am more a manual trans guy.
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yeah. I would prefer a manual in the future. I found a converter flush in the workshop manual, but I'd have to take the tranny all the way back out. Honestly, I would really rather not do that. I'm thinking that if I get the fluid out a few times it should wash whatever is in there out of it. I'm pretty worried, but I think I've got this. I only drove it like 10 miles since I put the transmission in (to get gas and back), so I can't imagine that I've worn anything out yet.
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If the auto is a rebuilt one I would call them and ask them what you should do before you go any further. The problem is if you got any crud stuck in there that blocked passages and a fluid change won't take care of that.
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yeah. well I really have no clue where to go from here. I am certain that I installed it correctly, and I've only driven it to a nearby gas station and back to fill it up (maybe 15 miles round trip), so there is no reason why that short of a drive should have been able to do this much damage, unless there was something wrong with what I purchased in the first place.
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