Headlight. Hmm...

[ChrisRL]

So working on the headlights of my 944S2 this morning.

PO had the right (pax) side headlight as being inop so I thought it was the bulb.

Turns out both original sealed halogens are still good (swap tested).

Fuses are all okay, all four 7.5As. But no low or high beams on the pax side still.

PO reported that the pax side headlight went inop when his lower rad hose burst.

That's all been fixed since (the radiator side of things) but I guess I'm going to have to chase wires now?

Anybody else had this experience?

Thanks!

[Slam]

Try a check of the wiring right where it enters the headlight mount. Sometimes they chafe there as the lights cycle up/down. The wiring flexes here too, and can crack. Connector too. Also, there should be a ground point right near there too, IIRC.

[ChrisRL]

Slam, thanks.

Nope, not it.

Have a spare pair of short connectors that are checked good (the ones that go between the bulb holder and the rear of the lighting unit when the lamps are down) and they don't do the trick either.

Going to chase the wiring through the loom now.

[ChrisRL]

Slam, hi!

Well you were right. But the wires had become stiff over time and the ground wire had broken off around 8" down after the plug and of course inside the insulation.

When I went to strip the ends to solder the wire back together, I found the insulation almost solid. Had to shave it off.

Right now I quick fixed it with solder, heat shrink and electrical tape. Actually the proper fix would be to rewire both sides from the ground points to the bulb holders, new flexible wiring, good for another 20 years :-)

Or, as I'm doing, go with a new H4 harness, which amounts to almost the same thing.

[DannoXYZ]

I prefer to use wires with silicone insulation. Doesn't get dried out and crispy like the plastic insulation.

If you're going to replace the wiring, bring +12v directly from the battery to power some relays near the headlights (I like the empty-space where the intake goes through the fender). Then add a supplemental ground and use the orignal headlight switched +12v wires to activate the relays. Will easily get you +25-50% more light due to reduced resistance and voltage-drop.

[ChrisRL]

Danno hi!
Yup, going to do that but was thinking of bringing the power directly from the alternator via 30A fusibles and a quick disconnect. Everything else the same as what you're saying.

[DannoXYZ]

Yes, you're correct!
I was thinking of alternator, but had a brain-fart!
Uses less wiring too!

Personally, I prefer to crimp AND solder the connectors. Then shrink-wrap it and seal the ends from water to prevent corrosion over time. You'd be amazed at how many aftermarket wiring-harnesses work great in the beginning, then after 5-10 years, they're about the same or worse than stock due to corrosion. Although probably not a concern in SoCal.