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Removing insulation with dry ice?

when stripping an interior, i saw you can remove that insulation on the floor with dry ice which seems to work very well. But does doing so effect the undercoating on the other side in any way? thanks

Old 04-28-2014, 01:53 PM
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No more or less than using a torch might.

Its a complete pain in the ass and if you're going through the hassle for weight loss purposes, then you might as well do the undercoating as well. The chassis is galvanized, so unless you scratch the paint or the coating you won't have any more rust issues than before. Just a little less weight and a ton more noise in the cabin.
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Old 04-28-2014, 02:00 PM
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its for weight purposes. i stripped the car and planned on keeping them but they were already old and peeling at spots. The only one i can't get using my previous method (scraper) is the passenger side. So I'm considering dry ice but if it affects the undercoating on the other side id rather keep at it with a scraper and see if i can get it somehow.
Old 04-28-2014, 02:29 PM
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It won't. You only leave the ice on there long enough to crack the padding. You won't damage the undercoat (not that you need it, especially if you're going to weight). I used a torch and it didn't hurt anything, even the paint.
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Old 04-28-2014, 03:36 PM
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Heat gun and putty knife. No need to hassle with dry ice, you can work on it in increments (with dry ice, you have to get the whole thing done at once or go buy more ice), and much lower fire hazard than using a torch.

Use the heat gun to warm up ~4" square sections of the material. When properly and consistently heated, the stuff will peel right up with very little effort. I used a 4" wide spackle knife, and a smaller 1"er to do some of the more intricate corners and cubbies.

No matter how you remove it, you're going to have adhesive left behind. For that, get some aircraft aluminum cleaner, nitrile gloves, goggles, and a respirator. Apply with a shop rag and follow with a dry one to remove the residue. This is an important step if you intend to paint.

If you don't have a heat gun, buy one. You can get it for maybe $20-$30, and it will be one of the best additions to your electrical repair kit (for properly apply heat shrink to wiring splices and repairs).
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Old 04-29-2014, 07:42 AM
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thanks guys, i think ill try a heat gun or torch. Both driver side came out fine with just a putty knife, as well as the passenger side back, but the passenger front i cant even get started. i'll give it a test this coming weekend!

Old 04-29-2014, 08:06 AM
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