Seal drivers

[GTR34]

Hello,

I was wondering what the best procedure for installing new seals is... and, more specifically, if anyone has specific dimensions for machining seal drivers, I'd love to know what they are so I can make a set. I will be working on the front main seal, cam tower seal, and balance shaft seals. Any advice is welcome! I've seen a few posts about using PVC and a mallet or a special home-build driver that is driven in by the bolt which holds the sprockets onto their respective shafts. It seems to me that the custom build combined with the bolt driving principle would be safest.

[MB968]

Lube the od of the seal, and the id of the hole. Make sure there isn't a sharp edge on the hole that can cut/damage the seal. A little emery cloth can be used to round the edge if it wasn't done at the factory, or to remove any burrs from other work on the car.

For install tools, usually you can find a socket, a piece of pvc pipe, or one of many pvc connector/reducers that will work. I've also used old bearing races etc. Or, sometimes the loaner tools from the local parts store will contain a series of different diameter plugs or collars. Use a rubber or leather mallet to tap on the tool. If you can't tap it on center (because there is no center), you can go around the perimeter with light taps on the tool to slowly walk in the seal. Sometimes it helps to do this just to get the seal started in the hole, and squared up. If you are using a piece of pipe, or the like, you can lay a piece of metal across the diameter so you can hit it on center to more evenly drive it in.

I spent my career around machinery. The assemblers typically used some combination of simple items as listed above to put in seals.

[Jfrahm]

A seal driver set is not a bad thing to have. Seals need to be seated squarely and at the correct depth, and in many cases there is no lip or protrusion to make this simple. If a seal is installed crookedly or too deep, it can leak badly. 944 front engine seals IMO are pretty easy and a socket has worked well for me. That being said, be careful and mentally prepared to replace the seal again if it does not seem to be installed right the first time. Do not go forward if there is doubt about your install, it's better to pry the seal out and throw it away and start again with a new part. That sure is fun when it's a $35 part that takes 4 days to get but it's better than putting it all back together and having it spew forth worse than ever.

[mytrplseven]

I've done all the seals on my car and used PVC pipe of varying OD's to accomplish this. The procedure was after lubing the outside edge of the seal and the inside of where it was to be installed, place the PVC pipe tool precisely around the seal and begin tapping it in a circular fashion and watch that it inserts squarely and slowly until it's fully seated. They all are tight, dry and never damaged one.

[Bukowski]

I bought the mandrel for the tranny output seals from VW. Plastic. Ok price. Works. Used Permatex non-hardening sealant ... I think. No idea if it will help - gotta get my car RUNNING! I am an Official Amateur.

[Rasta Monsta]

Not actually driving, but he looks to be considering it:

[GTR34]

Not actually driving, but he looks to be considering it:

Hahah, that was clever. I will make sure to try the pvc method. Would it be wise to practice driving the old seals back in before I do the new ones?

[Gawernator]

lmfao

[Bradical]

You can pick up a 10pc seal driver set from your local autoparts store thats more than decent for under $30, and it comes with a driver, too.