Need rear suspension help

[pumabro]

I bought used Bilstein Escort Cup coilovers and they weren't blown, looked to be in good condition a few months back and put them on recently. I then had the T-Bars removed for easier access to change ride height. Fast froward a few weeks I find a place that can do an alignment on the whole car that doesn't break an 18 year olds bank. I get there, he says its too low to do it etc etc. No problem. The whole time I ws telling myself I'll raise it eventually np. I live in an apartment with no tools so its a real drag to get anything set up. This weekend I ask a friend when hes free, whatever, get over there and begin to raise the car. Problem is, apparently my car is at max height and its nowhere near high enough lol. So what I am asking is what can be the problems?

Specs - Bilstein Escort Cup Coilovers Street valve

Bilstein Left Front Strut valved 380/150
Bilstein Right Front Strut valved 380/150
Bilstein Rear Shocks "Pair" valved 565/218
Hypercoil 2.25" ID Front Coil Springs
Hypercoil 2.25" ID Rear Coil Springs

Front is 450LB 9 inch (I think)
Rear is 250LB 8 inch (I think)

Before I get crucified for the spring rates, its what came with it and I had an order placed for new but got canceled.
What I'm thinking the problem is maybe the front can hold up the car so much more, rear sags.
Or springs are maybe blown? The shocks rebound fine front and rear.

Really at a loss and need to be able to raise the car before winter decimates me(Chicago, woooo.....) + alignment before brand new winter tires on the other wheels ha

Any help is appreciated.

Sorry to disappoint you folks.

[Backyardbodyman]

Hi,I'm no suspension expert. The rear coil overs are probably designed to be used with the torsion bars. With the torsion bars removed,all the load is on the coil spring. If you don't want to use the torsion bars.,my guess is stiffer coil springs. Are your rear coil overs threaded for height adjustment. Threaded coil overs give more adjustment with the torsion bars removed. Cheers

[Eric_Oz_S2]

I would bet your springs are too short.

Also 250 lb/in is way too soft in the rear without t bars for the front rates. You probably need about 700-800 in the rear.

[9FF]

It's not that the springs are too short in the rear, it's more to do with the rear spring rate being too low. Up the rear spring rate x3 with the same spring length and the rear will magically raise itself to the correct height.

[grendiers]

Also, you can try loosening those two nuts on the spring plate, and adjust some height into the situation.

[v2rocket_aka944]

IIRC the rule of thumb for 944 spring selection relies on an "Effective rate" calculation based on the geometry/angles of the F/R suspension bits, location of the pivot points etc...this is because the springs are not on the wheel centerline, not at the wheel center, not vertical, etc.

So in the front the effective rate is about 90% of the "advertised rate", so a 200# spring actually works as a 180# spring on the 944. Your 450# fronts would effectively work as ~405# springs.

In the back its 55-60%. So if you want to match the fronts, then a 700# rear spring would be excellent (385-420# effective using the % above).

[pumabro]

So IT IS a high possiblity that it is simply springs? Thats awesome to hear. Will order new ones front and back tomorrow most likely.

For mostly street driving(occasional autox) on awful roads in Chicago would what pair up well with 300LB fronts? 450-500 rear? And would length of springs be fine as is with 9 and 8?



THANKS EVERYONE.

[9FF]

600 rears will match 300 fronts but if you are looking for a smooth ride on Chicago roads, that isn't going to happen with those spring rates.

As for the length of the springs, unless you have corner weighed the car first to determine the force acting on each spring it's going to be a guess based on the final spring rates you choose.

[flash968]

actually, the best spring to match a 300 up front would be a 500. these cars like to be just a bit softer in the rear than the front (generally about 10%). that's what i had been running for years until a few months ago when i went to a stacked spring setup.

as for length, it also depends on the shock, due to the thread length and such. on the QA-1s i am running, i have an 8" spring but had to use a 2" spacer to clear the upper plates and make up the difference. i have since replaced that spacer with a tender spring to give me a lower initial rate yet maintain the final rate.

regarding ride quality, it all depends on the shock. koni yellows, for example, won't ride well at that rate, and bilstein escorts will really suck. koni double adjustable hydraulic struts however, coupled with QA-1 shocks modified like mine, are pretty smooth with a linear spring, and extremely smooth with a stacked spring.

[pumabro]

UPDATE; my new springs came in a few days ago and I got them on the coilover and car raised as all you guys said. THANKS everyone for the help! Much appreciated.
Pic of car after raising(not maxed with new springs)



And heres my winter set up


Take care everyone