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CLUTCH Replacement Questions

1987 944 N/A

My clutch went out after 153,000 miles.
I was two miles away from my house when it happened, so I had it towed to a Porsche repair shop in Sacramento.

Questions:

1.) Is the extra $ charged by a Porsche repair shop worth the cost, or would a standard mechanic be able to do this 12-16 hour job with the same level of quality?

2.) Should I buy my own clutch kit online, and what is a reasonable price for a kit with a two year warranty?

Old 11-24-2014, 11:03 AM
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I can do this job for you, and can offer a labor cost about 1/3 to 1/2 of what the Porsche shop will charge.
I've been doing traveling 944 mechanic work for 6 years, fixing them for 9.

PM me if interested.
Old 11-24-2014, 11:24 AM
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shaheer - just be sure to balance the flywheel, and then the entire assembly. a lot of guys cheap out and skip that step, and it costs power and smoothness. most of them don't even know what the difference can be. anybody who knows anything about harmonics though knows what it means, and how much better the engine will run with a balanced setup.
Old 11-24-2014, 11:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shaheer View Post
1987 944 N/A

My clutch went out after 153,000 miles.
I was two miles away from my house when it happened, so I had it towed to a Porsche repair shop in Sacramento.

Questions:

1.) Is the extra $ charged by a Porsche repair shop worth the cost, or would a standard mechanic be able to do this 12-16 hour job with the same level of quality?

2.) Should I buy my own clutch kit online, and what is a reasonable price for a kit with a two year warranty?
A shop that is qualified to do the job will do it quicker and will make more profit on your car. If they screw it up, they will make it right.

A general foreign car shop will take more time, use hammers when none are needed, and will charge you more, and make less profit and will be happy to see your car leave. If they screw it up, they will say, "They all do that." and you will have to take it elsewhere.

If you do the job yourself, you will acquire new tools, new skills, and save money.
It may take a bit more time and effort, and your car will be unavailable while you are working on it, but that's how most 944 owners became familiar with their cars.
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Old 11-24-2014, 11:55 AM
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Side note...rear main seal while you're there.
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Old 11-28-2014, 07:28 PM
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from reading posts on here, Spence is your ticket (the V2 rocket guy). He's more familiar with 944s than any generic import-auto shop. And he won't charge you as much as the dealer. Even better, you can learn from him as he's repairing your car!
Old 11-29-2014, 06:04 AM
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just getting ready to begin my clutch replacement.

Quote:
Side note...rear main seal while you're there.
Hey JC.

and advice from Lindsey Racing. shorten the spring by 5-10 mm so it fits tighter to ensure it does not leak. from their experiences, sometimes out of the box new RMS can leak.
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Old 11-29-2014, 06:53 AM
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Had my rms leak after I replaced the clutch. Leaked for about a week, than it stopped. Bone dry now. sometimes they need to be run a bit till they find their happy place. I used the black one that is known for being problematic.
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Old 11-29-2014, 09:13 PM
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One time after bolting everything back together, I found a rear main-seal on the bench. Is it the new one? Is it the old one? Did I install one on the crank? ....hmmm.....
Old 11-30-2014, 04:06 PM
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My buddy left out the pilot bearing. Horrible vibration, then the disc shattered.
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» 1980 931 - Got boost? ♦ 1987 924S - Pro44 ♦ 1987 924S - Junkyard score «

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Old 11-30-2014, 04:27 PM
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That's a costly mistake... That pilot bearing is a killer with the engine in though.
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Old 11-30-2014, 04:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PorscheChef View Post
Side note...rear main seal while you're there.
Added to the list of parts I'm getting. So far it's:

- OEM Sachs Clutch Kit

- Fidanza aluminum flywheel

- F.A.G. Clutch pilot bearing

- and a new RMS.

Any suggestions on what material is best for the Rear Main Seal
Old 11-30-2014, 04:48 PM
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Update:

I've spoken with v2rocket last week, and we're trying to find a schedule that works. Hopefully the weather cooperates.

So far I think I'm gonna be buying a:

- Sachs Clutch Kit

- Fidanza Aluminum Flywheel

- F.A.G. Clutch Pilot Bearing

- and a Rear Main Seal.

Any suggestions on what RMS is best?
Old 11-30-2014, 04:53 PM
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To remove the pilot bearing use the bread trick. Pack the hole with bread, then pound a punch that fits snugly into the hole in to pack the bread in until the bearing comes out. Replacing the pilot bearing is worth the $10.

I have also had a failure on a new rear main seal when I used the black one. I would recommend using the Timken RMS...only a few dollars more. I have used them many times without a failure...but I may be a bit bias since I worked for Timken as an engineer for 6 years.
Old 11-30-2014, 07:27 PM
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Taking it out was a relatively simple trick. Putting it in involved a blow torch and dry ice.

Still, well worth the $10 and labor.
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Old 11-30-2014, 07:30 PM
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Thanks for the advice, everyone!

I'm shopping for all these parts now.
Old 11-30-2014, 07:43 PM
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- Sachs Clutch Kit (OEM)

- Fidanza Aluminum Flywheel

- Master Cylinder

- F.A.G. Pilot Bearing

- Rear Main Seal (brand to be decided)
Old 11-30-2014, 07:45 PM
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Odd... I've never had issues installing bearings.... rubber mallet never fails. Pulling them out after they corroded for 30 years, generally requires creativity.
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Old 11-30-2014, 07:47 PM
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Get the rear main seal made by Elring. The general consensus is this is the best made RMS and offers the best chances for it not to leak the first time.
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Old 11-30-2014, 08:34 PM
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Would recommend Vertex disc over Sachs. Thicker friction material and less cost.

Fidenza not worth the money.

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» 1980 931 - Got boost? ♦ 1987 924S - Pro44 ♦ 1987 924S - Junkyard score «

"DETERMINATION. Sometimes cars test us to make sure we're worthy. Fix it." - alfadoc

Last edited by Rasta Monsta; 11-30-2014 at 09:59 PM..
Old 11-30-2014, 09:46 PM
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