Valve Job WYIT

[alfadoc]

I am helping a friend resurrect an early '85 N/A that suffered a broken timing belt. He bought it broken, and it's been sitting about a year. I have in his Pelican Parts project list a timing belt kit, head gasket kit, EOS gasket kit, air/oil/fuel filters, thermostat, drain plug washer and alternator/PS belts.

Once we get into it we will determine condition of coolant hoses, motor mounts, water pump, cap/rotor/plug wires, and obviously we'll need some valves.

Anything obvious that I've missed that should be in the first round of parts ordering?

[alfadoc]

Here's the beauty. Not bad for a 20 year old's first Porsche. I've never worked on an early car. It's gonna be fun to put this back on the road.

CO2 Catalytic converter
018 Leather steering wheel-raised 380 mm hub
158 Radio Blaupunkt Monterey
220 Limited Slip Differential
288 Headlight Washers
401 Light Metal Wheels
409 Sport Seats
418 Body Side Moulding

[ckelly78z]

I like that color and the Fuchs wheels....is that an aftermarket aero kit ?

[alfadoc]

Not sure where those boxed rockers and rear valance came from. I've seen them before, and they're aftermarket for sure. I like the rockers especially. I will be encouraging the owner to lose the PORSCHE reflector on the rear. We can't have folks sniggering about him on his first PCA outing LOL!

[Bradical]

Water pump would be a good idea. You need the head gasket, intake gasket, exhaust gasket and camshaft tower gasket. I would also recommend ordering the camshaft seal (there is a Teflon or onion skin seal here too) and doing that while you are at it. More than likely you are going to need a replacement camshaft bolt, they strip very easily.

Additionally, removing the belts is a good opportunity to do the front main seal, the balance belt seals and the oil pump sleeve also.

I would also consider replacing the fuel supply and return lines, and the fuel rail to damper line too. You will be disturbing those and they run directly over the exhaust header.

...hey, you asked!

[alfadoc]

Water pump is purported to have been replaced about 10K ago. May roll the dice on that. I would assume the sundry camshaft seals would be in the head gasket set, no?

I intended to do a full FOES on this, and had forgotten balance shaft and front main seal. Thank you! The sleeve is a "wait and see" for me. if it's grooved that'll be in parts order #2, which I fully expect.

Fuel lines. Hmmm. Probably smart.

Originally Posted by Bradical

Water pump would be a good idea. You need the head gasket, intake gasket, exhaust gasket and camshaft tower gasket. I would also recommend ordering the camshaft seal (there is a Teflon or onion skin seal here too) and doing that while you are at it. More than likely you are going to need a replacement camshaft bolt, they strip very easily.

Additionally, removing the belts is a good opportunity to do the front main seal, the balance belt seals and the oil pump sleeve also.

I would also consider replacing the fuel supply and return lines, and the fuel rail to damper line too. You will be disturbing those and they run directly over the exhaust header.

...hey, you asked!

[Bradical]

Originally Posted by alfadoc

Water pump is purported to have been replaced about 10K ago. May roll the dice on that. I would assume the sundry camshaft seals would be in the head gasket set, no?

Hmm, hopefully someone else can confirm that. I would order the camshaft bolt though. I was never able to remove the bolt extractor from the bolt out of the 85.5 motor I have! ...and yes, I have a complete triple square set!

Which remind me... Do you have the essential flywheel lock on hand?

[mattdavis11]

Originally Posted by Bradical

Which remind me... Do you have the essential flywheel lock on hand?

It's not essential. Falls right in line with a belt tensioning tool, OPRV alignment tool, spanner wrench, etc... Things you don't need, but can be helpful.

Get some anaerobic sealant, anti-seize, S'Ok penetrating oil and locktite.

[Bradical]

Quote de Bradical

Which remind me... Do you have the essential flywheel lock on hand?

It's not essential. Falls right in line with a belt tensioning tool, OPRV alignment tool, spanner wrench, etc... Things you don't need, but can be helpful.

A matter of opinion I suppose.

[alfadoc]

I do have the flywheel tool. It's about the only thing I found I couldn't live without in seven years of driving a 944 daily. Inherited a belt tensioning tool with one of the cars. I've never used it. I'm a twist method adherent.

[88Silver924S]

Re: "Water pump is purported to have been replaced about 10K ago." If it is assumed that included a new timing belt then what caused it to break so soon or did it strip teeth? What brand was it? Was there a bad oil seal that contaminated the new belt with oil? Seized roller? Over/under tightened? Just curious. Sounds like a fun project and great learning experience for a 20 year old.

+1 on fuel hoses if they are original; they can deteriorate and develop cracks from the inside from the alcohol in today's fuel. Modern fuel hose has a barrier liner. Be sure to get fuel injection rated hose such as Gates Barricade rated to 225psi working pressure. Have fun.

[djnolan]

The large vacuum lines - ICV to intake, icv to j boot, brake booster to y-pipe, etc. Use spring clamps (ala Toyota) [instead of barrel clamps] if you can find them.

[djnolan]

Oil cooler seals if you are going to the trouble of replacing the head gasket, and they are very accessible with the head and exhaust manifold out of the way.

[white944cup]

I'm doing similar things to my 88 Turbo right now. So far, every rubber seal and o-ring I have removed is flattened out, hard, and leaking. Check the rear end caps on the balance shaft housings. They look like freeze plugs. If the caps are loose, then the rubber o-ring has shrunk and oil is leaking down the rear of the block. My lower one is loose and leaking, so I am doing that one. My suspicion is the lower one sees more heat because of the proximity of the exhaust manifolds. The upper one is OK, so I'm not messing with it. The turbo has to come off to get to that one, and I'm not going there right now. Also check the oil line going into the top of the turbo. There is an o-ring that fits in a groove in the underside of the oil line flange. Lots of heat there, and the o-ring was flattened out and there are signs it was leaking oil onto the forward side of the turbo housing. Good luck!

[jwade944]

There are two smaller (M8?) bolts on the front of the head and the two bolts that hold the coolant neck onto the head that will be corroded and will likely break when you loosen them. Go ahead and get new ones before you start. The heater valve and hoses will be easier to get to while the head is off as will the lower heater hose above the exhaust manifold. New nuts and bolts for the exhaust manifold to exhaust collector connectors may also be needed as these are likely very corroded. Oil cooler seals can be replaced with the head and exhaust manifold on, but are easier with it off. I suggest leaving the exhaust manifold bolted to the head and remove both together. Bolt it back up before you return the head to the car. When you put the cam housing back on, I suggest jacking up the driver side of the car as high as you can. It makes it easier to place it without the lifters falling out.