Engine running issue
 

After finding my distributor cap lower screw not locked (engine ran fine) during an oil change, I re-secured it and now the engine refuses to run. I pulled the plugs and they were soot black, overgapped and Autolites. I replaced them with Bosch copper +, properly gapped and torqued and checked all the vacuum connections, ignition wire routing and can't get the engine to run. It would start and then falter and then shut down. After a day of re-checking my work, I decided to try a little of start fluid while it was stumbling and the RPM took off and I was able to induce some throttle as well. Now it will idle but won't accelerate without a minor backfire or hiccup.

The car had been sitting for some time before I bought it and Two days ago I put in what was probably the first high octane fuel it's seen in a long time. I only drove it home from the gas station and into the garage for the oil change. Note: I ran the starter with the ignition disabled for about 20 seconds until I saw positive oil pressure before trying to start it. I hope that wasn't an issue.

Here's my thoughts:

Since it won't take higher than idle is it possible that the new fuel caused old gas to gunk up the fuel filter and the engine is basically starving for fuel?

I have a new Bosch Distributor cap on order because I didn't feel real good about the look of the inside of the existing one.

Before when I tried to start it, it would start, go to idle RPM and then quit. After spraying the starter fluid while it was running, I got it to the point where it would at least idle somewhat but wouldn't accept any accelerator input.

I'm hoping TechnoDuck sees this as I tried to pm him unsuccessfully for help.

It is either this or the fuel injectors themselves, or both. I'm sure somebody on here would have a better idea, but if I were in this situation I would disconnect the hose between the fuel filter and hard line and pump some gas into a bucket and see if its nasty. I don't have a fuel pressure gauge to put on the fuel rail, though. After that, I would pull the injectors which is pretty easy.

I would start with checking fuel pressure at the rail, no sense in throwing parts at it.

Today, I ran some Seafoam through the brake booster vacuum line and after the smoke cleared, I was able to maintain almost 2000 rpm, so I'm sure that the cylinders were pretty gunked up since the plugs were sooty and black. I have a fuel filter ordered and will check the fuel. Injectors would be a good idea. Funny thing is, the engine ran fine before I found the loose dist cap and changed the oil.

There's so many other small things (is that possible?) I'm working on that the car is parked while I wait for parts, i.e., brakes, fan temp switch, transaxle cooler seals and fluid, etc. I appreciate you taking the time to respond to my ongoing laundry list of issues.

Are the copper+ resistor type plugs? Do you take 7501s?

You said the cap had the lower 10mil loose...is it a magnesium cam sprocket cover? Is everything lined up square. Do the the contacts on the cap all look the same...the button might not be centered is what I am trying to get at...

I am a sea foam fan but I quit fogging with it and putting it in the oil before changes...it just fell out of grace. Still throw some on top of bad gas.

If a motor is carboned up from not using a thermostat, running fat or age, you might try this;
Drain the windshield washer reservoir and fill it with distilled water.
Take a line from the pressure side of the washer pump and T it into the intake, downstream of senitive things but upstream of runner splits..
Take a drive, warm up the motor and just bump the washer button every couple minutes. Just a little...don't bend a rod))

Pretty much steam cleans the cylinders like a bad head gasket.