Belt tension gauge tool; krickit cricket

[Ederd]

Has anyone ever used this or have any reviews?


PORSCHE BELT TENSION GAUGE TOOL; KRICKIT CRICKET - RKR1


Dayco Krikit Tension Gauge - YouTube

[944Larry]

yep, use it all the time. Just be sure to stay within the limits printed on it and it'll work fine.

[nightheart]

you'll get a lot of mixed reviews on the kricket. first off go down to your local Napa store, item part KR1, I think, and it's around 10 bucks there. I've used it on serpentine belts, and it works fine them. I never used it on a t-belt though, .

[old 924]

wow that thing look's cool as hell..what are they going for...???

[John_AZ]

I own one.

Worthless on the cam/timing belt.
You are better off using the "belt twist" method in Clarks Garage.

Here is another evaluation from Bruce Arnn at Home
944 Timing Belt Tensioning

John

[Slam]

(Dons flame-proof gear and hunkers down) I've got one and have used nothing but on cam and balance belts. About 5 or 6 belt jobs later, no problems. Caveat: I change belts every 2nd summer.

[mikepellegrini]

I have an OptiBelt tool - the "official" Kriket, and I figure it's worthless. I can never get the same reading two times in a row.

It's still rattling around in my tool box, but what I use are my fingers, and so far, through maybe 8-10 belt jobs, they're doing fine.

It ain't rocket science. My favorite belt tensioning thread: Clark's Garage Message Board :: View topic - Belt tensioning without the tool

The point Clark Fletcher makes is that early in the production of 944's, they had a lot of belt failures - mostly some of the early belts were not great quality, and because Porsche didn't specify a mandatory inspection timeline. As a knee-jerk response (or maybe from one of their engineers covering his ass) they came up with the 9201 tool - a humongous over-reaction to a problem that could have been solved simply by periodic inspections and retensioning when necessary.

From that point on, cam belt tensioning became a mystic sort of trip. To do it properly, you have to have this magical $500 tool from Porsche. And then do some mantras and all this other silly horse puckey.

Clark makes a really good analysis of the problem. It's a really great thread - everyone oughta read it.

Current belts (like Gates or whatever) are just great. You don't have to have the tension perfect. Get it in the ballpark, then just check on it once and a while and you'll be fine.

[Ederd]

I'm getting ready to change my belts for the first time on my own and all the info from all the forums doesnt rid my head of the terror of screwing this up. I'm a pessimist that wants to be an optimist thats half way to being a realist. I read every post and wether or not my car is having the issue that someone posts I go and check it out on my car to just have the knowledge for future reference. I live off the info and advice you guys give and i'm very sure I can handle the job on my own, but i'm the type of guy that likes to learn from being shown in person the procedures and not from a "sink or swim" or a " maybe it will or maybe it wont work" standpoint. At the moment $ isn't in abundance and my car is my daily driver so screwing up is a really big deal!

[Ederd]

i want to enjoy my car and not drive in constant fear of evry 2 seconds the car might have a catastrophic failure.

[John_AZ]

Ederd,

You have the 1984 944 early, it does not have the mechanical spring tensioner Porsche put on in the later cars. I have it and do not trust the belt tension with the WSM instructions. The spring tensioner used per directions will usually/always over tension the cam belt.

The cam belt tension is important but it is just a part of what can cause "belt failure-valves bending"

When you change the belt, you have to inspect every roller for wear.
You have to grab the WP water pump pulley and tug, pull and spin to make sure there is no early bearing failure.
Inspect for oil leaks. If the crankshaft oil pump seal is leaking, it will throw oil on the belts and cause failure.
Porsche & Clarks Garage has suggested you change the oil pump roller bolt on early cars or check for movement.

Get any device or procedure (90* twist or +++) that you think will get you close to correct tension.



Then check the WP pulley with the engine at TDC.
The WP bearing and seal can burn out if you have too great of tension on the belt.
Too loose of tension and the belt may slip and jump on the gears.

When you are satisfied you have tensioned the belt correctly,
Do the Water Pump pulley test:



Retension the (new) belts after 1000 miles--updated Porsche recommendation.

Like Slam and others, I change the cam belt every 2 to 3 years. $12 is cheap insurance.

When I did my first belt change/tension alone, I took hours and did every test-I only had the spring tensioner information, no gauges.
The next day I was so worried I redid the entire process again.

When it started, I had white knuckles and sweat. I checked the tension at 500, and 1500 miles.

New belts are slightly over tensioned to get the belts to settle into the gear grooves and slightly stretch. You have to retension the belts.

Follow Clarks belt change installation exactly on how to install the belts.
The Balance Belt rollers have to be correct or vibration will happen.

Not an "in person" explanation but the above may help.

GL
John

[Cocacolakidd]

For the first timers on changing belts and rollers go to U-Tube and search for "Timing Belt Change Porsche 944 - Video #1". There are eight of them (Video #1 thru Video#8).

I'm not affiliated with the authors or U-Tube - I do think the videos are of help to beginners to see what may be going on though.

Have pfun

[Ky914Newbie]

+1 to John_AZ. I did my first last summer and tried the krickit. I never got consistent reading with it. I think it requires a touch I just don't possess. I tried it on the old belt before taking out and could never get good enough to feel confident I knew how it worked. I ended up using the twist method with some trepidation. However, I took it to a shop to verify and they said it needed no adjustment. Needing some additional work at about the time it should be re-tensioned, and it was verified again from a different shop. I had much more confidence in the twist method. YMMV.

[Ederd]

thanks John_AZ for the added info. when the parts all come in and my gentleman vegetables return to their rightful place, I will begin the process!

Kidd - i think i have watched them about 15 times and will probably watch them about 15 more times!

[VINMAN]

Always used the twist and finger method. 300,000 miles without an issue.

To me its just an over-paranoia thing with these cars.

[Otto Mechanic]

Can anyone tell me what the gauge measurement in foot/lbs or newton/meters should be for the timing and balance belts?