stalling?

84 944 · 11-08-2002, 02:57 PM

OK i have a problem i think well im not sure, see i just bought my 944 and im not driving it everyday and before i bought it it was sitting in a parking lot and before that in storage for awhile but i noticed when i got it home when i go to move it into the driveway in the morning or at night when it is really cold the idle goes up and down, i cant tell what the rpms are at idle cause the tach isnt working and i havent replaced it yet. Then once its still cold and i go to rev it a little bit to get it warmed up or when i go to move is once it comes back down from the rev the engine almost completley dies and the battery light comes on and the car almost stalls or completley stalls then when i try to restart it the battery light comes on and stalls a few times then it starts and if i let it run without reving or attempting to move it will heat up fine and then it will start to run better and once the oil pressure gets to like 3 and below it runs fine, also there is a squecky belt noise under the hood while idleing when cold and reving when cold i think its a lose belt but which one i opened the hood and couldn't tell which one it was? very sorry about the long post

SoCal Driver · SoCal Driver's Garage

Didn't do this before it got cold?

84 944 · 11-08-2002, 04:06 PM

nope it only does this while it is cold and the belt squeeking happiens for awhile after its warmed up until it is fully warm and the heat starts to come on

SoCal Driver · SoCal Driver's Garage

There are at the most two belts on the front of your new ride; the alternator A/C belt is the most likely to squeal. Try tightening it. It's the large jack screw under the front of the engine connected to the bottom of the A/C unit.

You have to loosen the two bolts at each end then double wrench the jam nuts loose on the right and left hand threads. Use channel locks twist the center to expand the link. Shouldn't take more than a turn or two to tighten the belt.

Be sure to tighten the jam nuts then the end pivot bolts or you will loose the center part of the link while driving.

Here's a diagram. Items 44 and 46 are the end pivot bolts. 41 points to one of the jam nuts; typical the other end of the center link. Item 48 is the AC compressor.

todwic · todwic's Garage

Cold start valve malfunction. my 2&cent. By that, I mean the Aux. Air Valve, as I now realize that's what Mr. Wilk advises. I'd go with that.

One of the great things about So-Cal (other than he's a helluva guy. He loaned me a sensor, burned 4 discs for me) is that he's always quick to throw a diagram at ya so you know just what the hell he's talking about.

84 944 · 11-09-2002, 08:21 AM

so what do i do with this dead aav replace it ? how much do i turn the idle up since i cant read it on the tach ill have to go by ear?

Roadman_944 · 11-09-2002, 09:14 AM

Hello 84 944,
First I would like to let you know that all the repliesd you will get on your post will be from some great guys that know their stuff. They helped me resolve my problem.
It sounds like you have the EXACT same problem as I did. I requested advice on what I called an IDLE STUMBLE. You may want to look at the replies I received. "83 944 IDLE STUMBLE". I did not mention in my post that I had the same cold start problem. I thought they were not related. I was wrong, when I corrected the idle problem I had no cold start problems. I do however still have a belt squeel at low rpm. But my belt needs to be replaced. The tentioner is at its max. The belt will be done today if it ever stops raining. My advice is to check the boot to the throtle body for ANY cracks or vacuum leaks.

SoCal Driver · SoCal Driver's Garage

Electrical schematics call this a Supplementary Air Valve.

Parts book listings call this an Auxiliary Air Regulator.

83 DME Testing Plan calls it a Throttle Bypass Valve 3 times and Auxiliary Air Valve one time.

Engine manual calls it the Auxiliary Air Regulator and Idle Speed Controller.

This is just for the 83, 84 and early 85's!

The later model call out is Idle Positioner. This is a motor driven valve controlled from the DME where the early valve is a heated bimetallic spring that closes the valve.

Safer to use the part numbers for the three different valves.

All the valves bypass the throttle. The later models can actively control the valve from the DME.

To test the 83, 84 and early 85's pull the plug off and check across the terminals of the valve. You should see 20 to 55 ohms. With the key on check the harness plug for 12 volts across the two pins.

This valve can be cleaned in place by pulling the upper vacuum hose off and squirting carb/brake cleaner in it, letting it sit then squirting some lube into it. Make sure the vacuum hoses are on, tight and not cracked.