A few 'glitches' w/ my 944

Scootin159 · 10-24-2002, 06:19 PM

Ok, I just bought my first car (a 944 none the less

).

First let me give a brief history of the car:

First owner cared for it great up to 80k when he sold it for $8k
All regular matinance done @ dealer
New "Block" (whole engine?) done @ ~50k (under warranty)
History of complaints of running rich - several attempted repairs
A bunch of other little things, all done @ dealer
This is all from a printout from the dealer. It's kinda hard to get exactly what happened, but it seems as though all the "rich" problems ended w/ the new "block". Any ideas what this could've all been?

Second owner didn't neglect it, but wasn't very knowledgeable
Still never drove the car in the winter
All scheduled repairs done @ local mechanic (seemed very competant though & had 2 other 944's there when I went to have him 'look over' the car w/ me)
Replaced Timing Belt/Water Pump @ ~90k
New tires (all season :-/) @ ~90k
Replaced DME, Spark Plugs, S.P. Wires @ ~90k - said it had a problem with no acceloration, claim new DME fixed it.

I then bought the car @ 100k for $4k

Anyways, here are the glitches I've found with the car since I bought it this summer

1) Rear hatch randomly opens
This seems to have gotten worse in the last month or so, but the rear hatch will randomly open on me. When I bought the car you had to be real firm in closing it for it to latch, but in the recent month or so it will never close when you first close it (bounces the first time, will normally catch 2nd or 3rd time), but what's worse yet is that it will just randomly open when I'm stopped @ stop lights or even just going down the road. Any ideas?

2) High beams = no lights?
Whenever I push the "dimmer" forward to turn on the highbeams all the lights go out. If I pull it back to "flash" though the highbeams will come on. The low beams work fine.

3) No fog lights
This might be related to #2, but the switch will light up, but the lights will not. (I checked the relay & fuse)

4) Sunroof won't operate electronically & will "vent" @ high speeds (>50mph)
I just bought new sunroof lifting gears & read a tutorial on this & plan on opening everything up & fixing this ASAP, any tips?

Also I plan on driving this car this winter (NY winters). I really wish I didn't have to (the body is in too great of shape...absolutly no rust), but it's my only choice. Anyways I have all season tires on there now & plan on touching up any stone chips w/ touchup paint before winter to keep rust from catching. Do you guys have any other reccomendations?

Alright, sorry for the long post, but hopefully you've got somethign to comment on now

SoCal Driver · SoCal Driver's Garage

1) Rear hatch: Adjust the two pins that extend into the latches. Lube the latches with a teflon based spray. Grease the pins with a stick of door latch wax. Check the top seam of the hatch were the glass is bonded to the frame. This has a propensity to separate from the black silicon based bonding agent. Does the rear hatch have a new gasket/seal around it?

2) High Beams: Pulling back the arm is the correct method to switch on/off the high beams. Do NOT push the arm forward as you can break it off. Did this car come with an owners manual? If so read it. If not get one.

3) Fog Lights: These come on with the high beams unless you rewire the system. High beams see item #2.

4) Electric Sunroof: If both arms are moving together then the drive is working. If not it's new gear time. You may also need to adjust the limit switches at the motor drive behind the carpet on the drivers side in the cargo area. The method of operation is in the owners manual. If this is the three gear box design it's best to update it to the two gear box design.

The 944 is one of the most galvanized cars ever made. Keep on top of the touch up paint.

Have the timing belt checked soon. Like in 5,000 miles or less. If the mechanic is doubtful about the belts viability -- change it. Else be prepared for a $1,500 repair bill to replace all of the valves.

The 944 is NOT a dragster. It is not a Japanese import -- don't Rice it! It is a world class touring coupe designed to cruise at 80 plus mph for hours at a time or snake it's way up a twisting mountain road like a modern steel rail coaster.

There are less than 10,000 of each years 944's production that were shipped into the US. Most of these wound up on the west coast. Welcome to a fairly exclusive club.

Scootin159 · 10-24-2002, 10:12 PM

About the headlights/foglights:

When I push forward on the switch (with very little pressure) it seems to click forward as if you are turning on the high beams (much like on my old car). When I pull back on the switch it doesn't "click", it seems to just be a momentary on switch. I don't have the owners manual right here to check this (it's in the glove box), but I could've sworn that's what it said

About the rear hatch:

When you say "pins" are you talking about the main ones that are attached to the hatch & go into the body of the car when you close it or something that comes up from underneeth? If the first...do I just turn them to adjust them? I'm guessing I would have to make them longer to latch right? I'm not sure if there is a new seal around the rear glass or not...what difference would it make anyways (so I know what to check for)?

About the sunroof:

I've got more investigating to do into this problem...but I'm pretty sure that neither arm moves...although I know the motor is working in that I can hear it run...but nothing seems to happen. I just found out where the microswitches are, so I'll have to mess w/ it later.

About the timing belt:

It was just replaced 10,000 miles ago (I have reciepts)...should be good for at least another 20,000, right? Is it customary to have it inspected @ 15,000 miles?

About the drag/rice:

#1, I hate rice. #2, Dragging is for camaros
My only goals right now is to #1, get it into good shape (fix all the gremlins/basic matinance), #2, put in a good stereo (current speakers are crap, rear ones are blown too

), #3 Get some 17" turbo twist wheels

, #4 buy a 968

.

Scootin159 · 10-24-2002, 10:21 PM

oh, and should I need new gears for the sunroof....what's a good price for them?

todwic · todwic's Garage

The running rich I would guess is the O₂sensor, IMO. Pulling back on the switch not hard enough to click is the temp type thing. pull back harder to click High or Lo beams. I notice mine is harder to make click than most other cars I've driven.

Scootin159 · 10-24-2002, 10:38 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by todwic
The running rich I would guess is the O₂sensor, IMO. Pulling back on the switch not hard enough to click is the temp type thing. pull back harder to click High or Lo beams. I notice mine is harder to make click than most other cars I've driven.

I have an '87 N/A....is it possible you guys are thinking of a pre-85.5 interior?

Scott R · Scott R's Garage

Since your in New York state I may have an answer to your fog lamp problem.

In the more humid areas of the world the backs of the fog lamps tend to rust at the connections. Remove the laps, its pretty easy and clean them up or replace the bulb sockets. I worked on an NA last week from Ohio that had completely rusted fog lamp wiring. A lot of road salt and such gets up behind there.

There is also a brown ground wire that snakes up the drivers side inside the nose panel area that could be disconnected or broken.

Scootin159 · 10-25-2002, 06:10 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Scott R
Since your in New York state I may have an answer to your fog lamp problem.

In the more humid areas of the world the backs of the fog lamps tend to rust at the connections. Remove the laps, its pretty easy and clean them up or replace the bulb sockets. I worked on an NA last week from Ohio that had completely rusted fog lamp wiring. A lot of road salt and such gets up behind there.

There is also a brown ground wire that snakes up the drivers side inside the nose panel area that could be disconnected or broken.

Thanks, I'll look into that. That also reminds me that one of my licence plate lights doesn't work & when I checkd it out the connections seemed a little rusted. I'm tempted to take it apart & clean it up, but I'm not sure if I'll do more harm than good (although I guess if it doesn't work, how can I break it?). BTW, is the bulb replaceable in those lights or do I have to replace the whole unit? If it is replaceable, how do you open it up?

Cebu · 10-25-2002, 06:34 AM

Ensure good ground and complete circuit through fog lights. The high beam control operates through the fog light circuit so that the fog lights are "off" with high beams "on"

Scott R · Scott R's Garage

The bulbs are replaceable, and so are the sockets. You can get the bulbs from any autoparts store they are called "H4's" I think. Also the sockets are replaceable from the dealer.

SoCal Driver · SoCal Driver's Garage

Quote:

Originally posted by Scootin159

I have an '87 N/A....is it possible you guys are thinking of a pre-85.5 interior?

Or an 87 924S interior.

Best to add your car's type to your signature line so the rest of us know how to answer. Also give your location too. It doesn't have to be your exact coordinates but at least a state and possibly city.

Now that I know your car's year; yes the high beams do have two positions. Forward is on, back is off and click back is flash the highs if they are up or the fogs if the headlights are down.

The pins have a jam nut against the hatch. You have to use a large screwdriver in the slot on the end of the pin and the proper size open end wrench to loosen the nut. If there was a new gasket installed around the rear hatch this could be the reason the pins are out of adjustment. You can tell by looking at the bulb of the gasket as you will see where it's pinched and or separating if it's an older gasket.

Back out the pins about one turn at a time and tighten the jam nut then close the hatch. Now lift up at each pin to see if they are latched. Once both sides latch you can lift up and down on that side of the hatch to see if there is any play. A little is not bad if that's what you have to have to make the pins latch. You're not accidently hitting the rear hatch switch in the foot well next to the door are you?

You may find the globes loose and coming out of the lamp bases. If this is the case you just might as well replace all of the lamps in that area.

Timing belts are a 30,000 mile item. Yours have been in for 10,000. Have them inspected NOW. I don't care what the PO said or the maintenance records say. The next inspection is 5,000 miles then replacement at another 15,000 max.

Don't expect to be overwhelmed by the four speaker stereo. You can get some good two ways for the doors and some good two ways for the back side stock locations. I would suggest getting a radio with built in high wattage amplifiers as there is little to no place to hide a second amp.

Scootin159 · 10-25-2002, 11:13 AM

Alright, just went & checked a few things out:

The rear hatch:
I don't see where you would adjust the pins for the rear. I think I found the nut you're talking about (just goes aroudn the pin...but I couldn't turn the pin by hand & didn't see any way to hook a wrench to it or anything.
Also there are some scuff marks in the paint around the latches making me think that the pins need to be made longer (too tight when latched?)....or is it vice versa & that it's too loose & it moves around too much?
Anyways, pretty much every time I go to close it the first time it will bounce, bounce the 2nd time, but the third time it will finally catch. This is kinda making me think I've gotta lube it up a bit....so where did you say I need to greese it...the part inside the car or the pin? I'm pretty sure it would be the part inside the car (the actual latch) & is there an easy way to get at that or do I kinda have to take the whole latch part apart to do it?

About the foglights:
Wires look to be in great shape all around. No rust, insulators seem to be intact & are even pretty clean. Is it possible that the faulty headlight switch (I'm thinking that's the problem...will replace when I get the money) is causing the foglights not to work as well?

About the stereo:
My plans (when I get the money....college is too expensive) are to put 6.5" components up front
-surface mount the tweeter w/ a small hole for the wire on the upper part of the door trim
-mount the 6.5" speaker in the stock locating with a MDF spacer (kinda have the magnet stick into the stock hole & have the rest sticking out....not sure if the dash will prohibit this however....design might take some work...maybe put it in there @ an angle?)
-make a big box in the rear w/ 2x 6x9's kinda sitting on top of the rear wheels w/ 2x 12" subs between the wheels. The box face would kinda be angled so that it doesn't go over the height of the back seat. My only needs for trunk space is really for the roof...but I'm not sure if I would have enough room left....have to measure still. I would also remove the little rolling cover for the rear & maybe replace it with a little something going from the sub box to the hatch lid....got some planning left. I do already high power head, but I would definitly need an amp for the subs.

Thanks for all your help guys.

SoCal Driver · SoCal Driver's Garage

Quote:

Originally posted by Scootin159
Alright, just went & checked a few things out:

The rear hatch:
I don't see where you would adjust the pins for the rear. I think I found the nut you're talking about (just goes aroudn the pin...but I couldn't turn the pin by hand & didn't see any way to hook a wrench to it or anything.

Also there are some scuff marks in the paint around the latches making me think that the pins need to be made longer (too tight when latched?)....or is it vice versa & that it's too loose & it moves around too much?

Anyways, pretty much every time I go to close it the first time it will bounce, bounce the 2nd time, but the third time it will finally catch. This is kinda making me think I've gotta lube it up a bit....so where did you say I need to greese it...the part inside the car or the pin? I'm pretty sure it would be the part inside the car (the actual latch) & is there an easy way to get at that or do I kinda have to take the whole latch part apart to do it?

Ah, don't slam it. Bring it down easy and using palm pressure over each latch press down.

Take it to mechanic who has worked on the 944's and have him inspect and adjust the pins and latches.

Quote:

About the foglights:
Wires look to be in great shape all around. No rust, insulators seem to be intact & are even pretty clean. Is it possible that the faulty headlight switch (I'm thinking that's the problem...will replace when I get the money) is causing the foglights not to work as well?

Check the fuses. Check the relay. Again take it to a mechanic.

Quote:

About the stereo:...

Put your money into car maintenance first.

There is not much room in the doors for larger speakers or additional drivers. Since these are mid to high range speakers they do not have to be bigger than stock. They can be better quality than stock.

There is plenty of room in the side panels at each end of the back seat for bass drivers if that's your thing. They do not have to be any larger than can comfortably fit as the body cavity will make them louder.

As I remarked earlier don't Rice out the car. Filling the back up with speakers and amps is "Ricing" and completely unnecessary.

scottmandue · 10-25-2002, 11:59 AM

Okay before you label me as some conservative old guy let me say:
I have a 185 watt Luxman amp driving two Altec Lancing voice of the theater PA speakers and a fifty CD changer...
in my garage.
I have 125 watt per channel 5.1 surround A/V amp driving a collection of JBL satellites and Sony tower fronts with a 15" 250 watt Cerwin Vega subwoofer.
I have also played electric bass and sometimes guitar in several (LOUD) garage bands over the last fifteen years.
Now that you have some idea where I am coming from, installing a monster sound system into your 944 will likely devalue the car. I am not dissing you, just giving you my opinion that the 944 is a small tightly packed car that doesn't work very well as a platform for a large sound system.

However, it's your thing, do what you want to do...

SoCal Driver · SoCal Driver's Garage

Scott!

You play geetar?

I've got three sittin' here and you never get out on Mondays.

Scootin159 · 10-25-2002, 12:11 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by scottmandue
Okay before you label me as some conservative old guy let me say:
I have a 185 watt Luxman amp driving two Altec Lancing voice of the theater PA speakers and a fifty CD changer...
in my garage.
I have 125 watt per channel 5.1 surround A/V amp driving a collection of JBL satellites and Sony tower fronts with a 15" 250 watt Cerwin Vega subwoofer.
I have also played electric bass and sometimes guitar in several (LOUD) garage bands over the last fifteen years.
Now that you have some idea where I am coming from, installing a monster sound system into your 944 will likely devalue the car. I am not dissing you, just giving you my opinion that the 944 is a small tightly packed car that doesn't work very well as a platform for a large sound system.

However, it's your thing, do what you want to do...

You really think that all would be too much for that car? I'm thinking I might go with 4x6's up front...but having them all around wouldn't give you enough bass response I don't think. As far as devaluing the car....I'm not cutting anything, so I could 'undo' everything if I find it hurting the resale value.

ae1969 · 10-25-2002, 12:20 PM

....come on guys ....adding a few amps/subs and good speakers is not ricing the car. I have never thought my 2000 watts would ever make my car go faster, but the extra 100 pounds has definitely made me slower

I drive my car a good 100 miles everyday (1-2 hours on the road)..(except during winter) so listening to music is a necessity!

What I managed to fit...

5 1/4 " MB quarts Pro (beautifull speakers), they reproduce your highs very well, and I have a couple of 10" Pioneers in the rear. For me thats enough for now. 12"-15" are overkill IMO, you won't be able to hear them well, but everyone around you will.

I also have a DH2- earthquake that will soon find a home in my car with a different sub. To me overpowering is the only way to get nice clean sound. I don't run them at the max, but I try to get amps that are meant to drive more than is needed, and hopefully reducing my distortion levels. In the end it will never sound as good as a high end home stereo.

SoCal Driver · SoCal Driver's Garage

Quote:

Originally posted by ae1969
....come on guys ....adding a few amps/subs and good speakers is not ricing the car. I have never thought my 2000 watts would ever make my car go faster, but the extra 100 pounds has definitely made me slower

Yes. It's Ricing and Ghettoing out the car when you have some cheep outdoor carpet covered scabbed together plywood and particle board box taking up the entire limited space in back putting out a 10 Hz sine wave with enough amps to pulverize kidney stones.

You don't need it. This exaggerated "bass response" is pure fabrication and not a true reflection of any musical instrument.

Your alternator and wiring is not designed to handle this strain. You can pull enough current from the system to cause DME problems or burn up the wiring under the dash.

scottmandue · 01:54 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by ae1969
[B To me overpowering is the only way to get nice clean sound. I don't run them at the max, but I try to get amps that are meant to drive more than is needed, and hopefully reducing my distortion levels. In the end it will never sound as good as a high end home stereo. [/B]

That is my theory of operation also, my "garage system" was in my living room before I decided to go surround sound. The vintage Altec speakers were designed to go into movie theaters with a 60 to 100 watt amp, with the modern high power amp I have it connected to you can't go over half volume without hurting yourself.
There are people out there with more technical knowledge than me and I encourage them to add there comments.

Bigger is not necessarily better:
A highly efficient speaker driven by a small amplifier can create the same or more volume as a large inefficient speaker connected large amplifier. Many modern bass guitar amp setups are using eight or ten inch speakers.
My "outdoor" bass setup (way too loud to play indoors) pushes two hundred watts through two very efficient fifteens. The sound out of this thing has been compared to ten thousand watt multiple stack rigs.

What I am saying (if you want to save some money) is use your head and follow your ears, don't let someone sell you a bunch of hardware you don't need and don't get swept away with shiny amplifiers and great big speakers with big fancy numbers, and don't get into a macho "mine is bigger than yours" competition with the guy down the street. Go to a audio hi-fi store, tell the pushy salesperson your not buying anything today you are just shopping around, then LISTEN to some six, eight, and six by nine speakers. With today's technology you will be amazed at how much sound they put out.

scottmandue · 10-25-2002, 01:52 PM

BTW my speakers suck also but the sound system is at the bottom of my list.
When I do get to it I will plug in some new 4X6's all the way around (rears look like a PITA to get at) and maybe a nice Alpine high power head.
FWIW consider if you will...a high buck sound system is a thief magnet!

Party on!