Engine Lift/Support

[EJZero1]

Using the harbor freight support brace to raise/support the engine in my 86 951. Have the chain looped through the lift eye at the front of the engine, forward of the AOS.

After careful cranking, the driver side has cleared the mount by 1/2 inch, but the passenger side still sits on the mount. Is this normal until he entire engine is raised some more? The uneven lifting of the motor concerns me that it may be stressing connecting points along the drive train.

Would love to also be lifting at the rear lift eye at the rear of the cam tower, but can only lift at one point at a time with the brace.

Advice from your experiences would be most welcome.

[Rasta Monsta]

Goal is what? Motor mounts?

1. Don't be shy about lifting, you won't hurt anything. Lift till it touches the body
2. More clearance needed for mounts? Loosen subframe. . .bolts are loooong.

[fiily]

Originally Posted by EJZero1

Using the harbor freight support brace to raise/support the engine in my 86 951. Have the chain looped through the lift eye at the front of the engine, forward of the AOS.

After careful cranking, the driver side has cleared the mount by 1/2 inch, but the passenger side still sits on the mount. Is this normal until he entire engine is raised some more? The uneven lifting of the motor concerns me that it may be stressing connecting points along the drive train.

Would love to also be lifting at the rear lift eye at the rear of the cam tower, but can only lift at one point at a time with the brace.

Advice from your experiences would be most welcome.

I'll be doing the same task as soon as winter comes around, I have the same engine hoist too.

I would recommend going with porsche mounts, they are expensive but worth it when the cheapies fall apart after 3 months and your doing the job over with genuine porsche mounts.

[Rod Schneider]

You are only lifting one side of the engine when you use that lifting eye, and the engine is trying to twist rather than coming straight up. You need to either find a lifting spot further over to the passenger side or get another bar and use the lifting eye at the back of the cam housing also. Another option, depending on how high you've raised the car, is to use a floor jack under the oil pan with a block of wood for protection.

[Rasta Monsta]

NEVER jack on a 2.5 oil pan.

[EJZero1]

This phase of the project includes a rod bearing refresh and associated pan gasket replacement, so the crossmember will be coming out. Will get a good look at the mounts at that time.

The plan for today is to string a cargo strap from the support bar down to the engine mount arm on the passenger side and lift from both sides. Still going to try to raise and lower via the crank so as to facilitate small incremental changes, and the ability to lower slowly back onto the mounts without the use of the jack on the pan.

Thanks for the inputs so far. If my plan works, will update with a pic.

[Arizona_928]

shift it over, tie in the cam loop, make sure you distribute the weight properly though. I found an engine lift easier when I did mine, but I'm against the grain on a lot of stuff.

[EJZero1]

Originally Posted by AZ_porschekid

shift it over, tie in the cam loop, make sure you distribute the weight properly though. I found an engine lift easier when I did mine, but I'm against the grain on a lot of stuff.

So perhaps slide the bar back and lift from both points? Tha would seem to even the load, but I was a little concerned of the side loads on both lifting points being pulled towards the center.

[EJZero1]

Success!

Ran a strap under the passenger side mount arm and to the second "crank" on the support bar. Now able to raise the motor evenly, and each side independently.

Headers out (to install EGT sensor in #4...of course #2/3 have to come out first).

Tomorrow, drop the crossmember and pull the pan.

After months of taking stuff apart, I can't wait to start putting things back together!